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sheepers 1976 RA28 celica

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this is one of my money pits.

i bought it off a friend who had it for 13 years.

it will have a 1JZ motor with the usuial bits and pieces. ive put a R32 GTR rear sub frame in it and ill be usint the GTR front brakes.




its not black, it dark purple.








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  • 2 months later...
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i was talking to someone at the nats, for some reason i cant quite remember who it was, about the rear sub frame in my 28.

heres a few photos, feel free to question my sanity. my wife does.


this is the arms at about the correct ride height. i will have about 30mm of travel before the wheel goes into neg camber.

i will have to make new A arms to narrow the track by about 35mm per side.


origonal mounting points nearly line up with the chassis rail.


this space saver is about 620mm in dia which will be about right for a 16x9 wheel.


this is the front mount, almost on the rail as well. it'ill be nice and strong when ive finished.






didnt have to cut too much out.......


this is me hard at work in my old shed. we've moved house and my new shed is much bigger now, YAY!!

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  • 8 months later...

well, almost a year latter im getting back into this car.

i have just got my 1UZ delivered and i have everything except a flywheel for the engine transplant. ill be making the flywheel myself so if anybody has one they want to lend me so i can copy it that would much appreciated.

anywho, the plan is to get the motor in and sorted in the spot i want it then finish the rear end off and drive the fucker!!

one good thing the has come of having the car laid up for all this time is that ive been able to collect a few bits and pieces for it, like new screen rubbers and such.

i plan to have this car on the road by crissy.

ill post some pics of the motor and such tomorrow.



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i stuck te 8 in the hole to see what the hell ive let myself in for.

the motor is sitting on the rack, which it turns out is to high in relation to the crossmember anyway. i haven't measured the bump steer (which is the first thing ill be doing when i take the motor back out) but i reckon its gruesome!!

i didnt do the R&P conversion, it was like that when i bought it and its not good. my main decision at this point is do i stick with whats there and try to make it work for both the motor and the steering geometry or do i start again??? time will tell.

anywho, on to the pics





this is with the fame of my other bonnet on the top. even though the motor will go down by about 40mm it still fits under the bonnet as it is.


so yea, the drivers side extractor is going to be "interesting" but not to bad for a first try.



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  • 7 months later...

i had to ditch the crossmember and rack that was in the car when i bought it. i measured the bump steer and got 13mm of toe in at 50mm of travel, less than ideal.

so, i bought an TE71 powersteer rack and crossmember off tardme and used that.

i measured it all up and found that it needed to be spaced down by 25mm to get to LCA inner mounting points back to factory, but since i wanted to get the motor as low as possible i went another 15mm bellow this (which is the same as my RA23) giving a total of 40mm.

this is the crossmember shortened and with the spacers welded on it.




the corners are cut at an angle to clear the sway bar.

once i had this sorted it was time to make mounts for the motor and box and bolt the thing down.

nothing too exciting really, i cut the mounts off the crossmember that are shown above, used the original motor mounts and just made some little platforms for them to sit on. i used the gearbox mount that came with the box, not sure what its out of but fit a bit better than the standard RA one and extended the floor mounting position using a bit of 50 x 50 angle welded to the floor.

motor bolted down,





with the motor where it is and the new rack in place i have a bit more room for the drivers side extractors. its still going to be tight but not as bad as before.

ive now got the motor in a million bits replacing the cam belt and the waterpump and also taking the loom out so i can chop out the bits i don't need and get it all sorted to run.


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  • 8 months later...

ive been working on this car flat out recently.

the motor is all back together and ready to go. traction control gear is all gone from the TB, loom is all stripped and back on the motor. hydraulic fan drive is gone and the cambelt and water pump are new.

ive sorted the rack and the crossmember and thats all ready to go. new fuel lines are in as well as brake and clutch lines.

i need to make the hoses to go to and from the power steer pump and make up some heat shields for where the zorst goes past the fuel lines.

manifold flanges are being made and ill be making extractors this week.

im aiming to have the extractors finished by next weekend. then ill get them stress relived and coated.

then the motor can go in for the final time.



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here are some pics so you can see the lushness.

new fuel lines and a heat sheild to protect them from the zorst.


crossmember and mounts with heat shields (factory). i re-filed the flats on the rack so i could lay it back slightly towards the fire wall. this gives me heaps more room for the zorst and it gets the fluid outlet pipe away from the sump. bit hard to tell but thats how its sitting.


motor with a shiny coat of paint and ready to go back in (again) dog is unimpressed.


motor in the hole again.

ive made up some rails that hang down from the cam cover bolts and are the same shape and in the same place as the chassis rails. this way i can bolt them to the motor when its on the stand and have a good idea of where the rails and steering are when im making the exhaust.


i take delivery of a beautiful new AC/DC tig welder tomorrow. its got variable everything and a foot control. im looking forward to making some more alloy bits without having to struggle welding using DC only...

with this new toy ill make the drivers side heat shield (for the rack boot and fluid inlet outlet.) and lots of other fun stuff like catch cans and swirl pots and such.


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  • 4 weeks later...

some more progress.

the extractors are a good way towards being finished. the drivers side was a nightmare with many weld/cut/reweld/recut/reweld events taking place but ive got it exactly were i want it now. there is 4mm clearance per side so you can understand how much of an arse its been. the passengers side was a breeze compared to the drivers side.

tuned length they aint, but they will do the job i require. ive run out of joiners and bits so this is as far as i can go till monday.

once they are finished ill get them normalised and stress relived to help stop cracking, then ill get them coated.



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passengers side finished bar O2 sensor and some brackets.

after dinner ill go and finish the drivers side, or at least get a bit closer to finished.


end of the pipes with transition pieces welded on.


collector tacked in place.

finished item.


right then, its off back to the shed for me.


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  • 2 weeks later...

zorsts are finished, O2 bosses, heat shields made and brackets to bolt them to zorsts done. the extractors are currently at heat treatments getting stress relived then ill coat them.

in other news i put the flywheel on and the clutch on. the gearbox is mounted up and i think ive pulled every muscle in my arms by lifting the gearbox with one arm while doing up the bolt with the other.

to get it to run i need,

insert engine and connect hoses/lines/electrodes and telescopes for good measure

dodge up a fuel supply (have no tank or idea where/how a tank will go at this stage but fuel lines are made to the back)

wire it up

radiator? prob start it without this.

i have some pretty good instructions and diagrams for the wiring but time will tell.

its getting very exciting now.

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more progress.

brake bias valve acquired and installed so all brake lines are now finished. clutch line had to be moved to clear zorst so thats done.

extractors are at the heat treaters being normalized and stress relived.

i plugged the loom all back in and connected power to the car for the first time since Ive owned it and everything works.

got head and tail lights, brake lights, indicators, dash lights, heater fan, cigarette lighter, horn, windscreen wipers and the relay's click when i hit the starter.

got no handbrake warning light as yet and no light in my charge/oil pressure gauge. but all else is good.

i have to tidy up/paint a few things them the motor can go in for permanent. ill twist a few wires together and it should go! but somehow i think its going to be a bit more difficult than that.


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tonight i got the zorsts back from the heat treaters and gave them a coat of paint.

i then proceeded to put the engine in for the last time. i am megga stoked that the engine is in properly. i can now concentrate on the wiring and get it to run.

here are some pics so this update docent fail,

firstly, the obligatory "standing in the empty engine bay" shot (i should point out that all car work is done wearing my alter-ego persona's mask of "the great ballsupinator")


engine in the hole for final, zorsts on, heater hoses connected, power steer lines in, fuel lines ready to go, clutch on, break lines in place, etc. all done ready for the next step.


megga stoked!!

sheepers (the great ballsupintor)

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been fucking around with wires.

so far i have,

engine cranking over

oil pressure


8 injectors firing

2 fucked plug leads

1 fucked coil lead

8 fucked plugs

no fuel pump

no AFM pipe work

tomorrow im going to try to remedy the plugs, AFM pipe and a fuel pump. i have a mate who works at Toyota but i cant get hold of him to try to get a set of plug leads.

it should go once i have assembled the remaining few items.

time will tell.....


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IT GOES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

connected fuel, flushed lines and hit the starter and it fired 3rd compression!!!!

it sounds incredible with just the headers on it, its fucking loud though. i want to keep revving it and listening to it but its way to loud for that.

will have to wait till i get home from work tomorrow and start it again, just so i can rev it.

megga streisand!!!

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most of the engine bay wiring is finished. got idle speed control valve working, it idles very well now, even without any water.

checked rev counter and it reading right. got temp gauge hooked up, reverse lights, alternator, all that shit.

pretty happy with it all so far.

i guess the next step is to get a radiator set up and put some water in it and see what happens.

pic. wires almost finished, still got the white wire to re locate (had no appropriate gauge wire for that) and a few little bits but its starting to look pretty good.



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  • 2 weeks later...

more things have been done.

Ive finished the fuel pump wiring. most people just run the fuel pump off the key (because 1UZ's have weird twin speed fuel pump signals, or a completely separate ecu to run the fuel pump) but i wanted the fuel to cut out if the motor stopped, like in a crash or something so i used an LPG safety switch.

its basically a relay that works when it gets a pulse from the tacho, or anything that outputs a pulse, you can run it using a trigger from the injectors.

anywho, it has a 5 second timer in it so you have 5 seconds from when you turn the key on to actually start the motor.

Ive also stuck some temporary mufflers on it but it hasn't made any difference, its still megga loud.

been working on getting the radiator mounted and i also have a 16" fan ordered for it which i should pick up tonight.

apart from that Ive had a few issues with the clutch line leaking. its not easy to remove the clutch lines with a v8 in the way. you know things are difficult when you have to start cutting spanners in half just to get the nut undone. and i also put the wrong length spedo cable in the car so i had to change that with the motor in the way. apart from that shes all good.

i shall continue to move forward.


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well, the radiator and fan is all mounted up and working fine,

i dont have the thermo switch installed yet but i do have an override switch on the dash which is all hooked up and working.

i filled it up with water and got it hot. no dramas to report. put a cap on the rad and got some pressure in the system and no leaks!!.

the 16" fan seems to drop the temp fairly quickly so thats all good. and i didnt stuff up the hoses after all so that another plus.

finished painting the engine covers and put them all back on the motor..

ive put the bonnet back on and its starting to look like a car again.

i have to paint the filler panels (between the bumper and the grill) and the rad support panel.

still have stuff to do like make throttle cable, find and fit bonnet catch, find and fit a radiator overflow bottle and screen washer bottle. have to make an air cleaner too.

im sure theres more but i cant think of it at the mo...

stuff is getting done. yay.


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this is the current state of play.

need throttle cable, radiator overflow /washer bottle and bottom valance.

oh, and also an air cleaner, which i hadn't even thought about until now.

everything else is done. it starts and idles from cold as it should and all things appear to be working.

in the next day or two im going to turn it around in the shed and jack it way up in the air.

then the fun begins.







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well, its funny how you get yourself into these situations but here i am.

i have had a re-measure of the rear subframe. in order to get it the same width as stock celica( and therefore run the uber dish that should be required by law on these cars) i need to take 95mm out of each side.

i cant shorten the arms by this much because the geometry will be poked so the only option left is to cut and shut the cradle.

you can see now how i have begun to paint the floor, working meticulously away from the door into the farthest corner. from here it goes downhill.

cutting the cradle isint toooooo much of a world stopper and at this point i think i can pull it off. it will require some "interesting" bulges in the floor and some very delicate "rust repairs" to the chassis rails but sacrifices have to be made.

but then we move onto the half shafts. ive not taken them fully apart yet and im still at this point assuming you can, they have a spline that fits into the ball carrier on the hub end so im guessing they come apart here. unfortunately the shaft is slightly "necked" so in order for me to cut the shaft down and re-spline it i will first have to build it up with weld so i can have the correct diameter spline. joy.

its about now you ask your self "my god, what have i done" but in the immortal words of whoever it was who read the questions on master mind "I've started, so ill finish."

and its with this new mantra firmly implanted in my head that i move on into the abyss.

here are some things i know, my friend works in a metallurgy lab so i can give him a sample of the half shaft and find out what will be the best process and filler rod to use to build up the shaft. i have access to the gear required to machine the shaft and do the re-spline myself. my engineer has said i can legally do what i propose as long as he sees what im doing.

so its all gravy really, what could possibly go wrong........

bloody hell.


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