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Mitsi 4G Ring Sealing.


RWD4G62NZ

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dude as long as you torqued the head bolts to 54ft lbs I wouldn't worry about re-torquing the head right away. I did 100kms in my original engine after I put the head back on after blowing a gasket before I re-torqued the head bolts, and then another engine we put together we didn't even re-torque the head bolts. I think most modern head gaskets don't require re-torquing.

As for running it in, best way I reckon is to give the engine a bit of load, but don't thrash the bejesus out of it. Don't let it idle for too long and don't let it sit at constant revs for too long either, ideally you want to constantly vary the load and speed on the rings to aid with bedding them in quicker. Just drive it around as you would normally I reckon, but just bare in mind the varying of the load.

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This makes a fairly good read

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

used a similar approach when running in my motor, got out of the driveway and just opened it up (pretty much).

One thing I find that did help though was going down a rather large hill at about 4000rpm completely off the throttle, before hand i was hard up it, and i was hard up it again after the hill.

But the general idea I was given from the mechanics i talked to was drive it hard, if you sit there going easy on it or let it idle (even a fast idle) the rings are just going along for the ride

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hey dude, not sure if it's too late already. Just start it up as usual, let it warm up first but just vary the idle like blip the throttle every few seconds or so, and just start driving it like normal. Once it's fully warmed up then go with the running in method.

15W40 mineral oil is fine, I wouldn't use a synthetic oil for running in but that's just me. I used 20W50 for the 4G37 me and pete built and 15W40 for the 6A12 I built. It's just going to get dumped out within 500kms anyway so I wouldn't worry if it's high quality or not

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awesome, i was shitting myself that i had done it wrong for a bit. but it is more or less what i done. I did have a little scare when i noticed dripping water under the car pretty much under the cambelt cover... luckily it was just the overflow bottle phew!

how long do you reckon I need to drive via the running in method for? until the first oil change at 500km?

and also, segedins are good cunts. the engine reconditioners ordered me the wrong main bearings and piston rings, so on saturday i shot down to segedins and got the right parts and im pretty sure they gave me trade price, rings were 55+gst and main bearings were 35 :) this was much cheaper than the incorrect parts i was supplied which i will be returning on monday :lol:

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awesome, i was shitting myself that i had done it wrong for a bit. but it is more or less what i done. I did have a little scare when i noticed dripping water under the car pretty much under the cambelt cover... luckily it was just the overflow bottle phew!

how long do you reckon I need to drive via the running in method for? until the first oil change at 500km?

and also, segedins are good cunts. the engine reconditioners ordered me the wrong main bearings and piston rings, so on saturday i shot down to segedins and got the right parts and im pretty sure they gave me trade price, rings were 55+gst and main bearings were 35 :) this was much cheaper than the incorrect parts i was supplied which i will be returning on monday :lol:

Yeah just change oil within the first 500km or so anyway, as there will be a bit of metal shavings and debris in there from the rings and bearings bedding in etc. I used cheap valvoline 20W50 then switched to 15W40 and then go to your normal semi-synth oil after 2000kms or so.

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