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F@3KING electrics etc-Help required


lowlancer

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This is essentially the last hurdle I have before I can turn the key to the Celeste. Electrics have never been my forte, and now I have no idea how to hook up my coil+ballast resistor+relays etc

I've got a wiring diagram, but I can't see a relay in there at all, what does it do? And what will come off it? Basically I just ned to know how the three work together, and if I can just replace it with a new set up easily...

Ive taken pics to help you out.

This is just the lot basically stuck together.

image1mo2.th.jpg

I assume this red wire goes to power on starter? It comes from relay.

image2rh3.th.jpg

image3pl1.th.jpg

imagere9.th.jpg

Any help=maximum e-mana points

Cheers guys

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yuh ballast resisitor bypasses on statrting to give a fatter spark or some shit.

you'r gonna have to trace where the relay wiring goes. I reckon it's using the feed form the ballast to switch it, or to feed the power supply on it, which in effect owld be a stupid idea anyway.

it's probably there to power an accessory circuit that switches off the key. perhaps powering a fan or somehting?

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here is a basic diagram

wirekx5.th.jpg

the reason for the resistor is on a non resistor circuit, while the starter motor is crancking the voltage at the coil drops to 7V

so to combat this they use a resistor to to drop 12V to 7V and the coil is designed to run on 7V

with the resistor circuit you need to have a bypass when the key is on the start possition the coil is feed directly from 12V which will drop to 7 due to the starter motor voltage drop.

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if you are using a resistor, you are using a coil that is designed to run at 7V not 12V.

So you have the resistor to drop the voltage from 12V to 7V.

When you turn the key the starter motor will turn. this causes the 12V to drop to 7V (this is only when you turn the key to start)and the voltage at the coil will be 4V (not enough for a good spark)instead of the voltage for the coil coming from the resistor it comes from the 12Vwhich has dropped to 7V due to the starter motor running.

hope this helps its hard to explain.

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if you are using a resistor, you are using a coil that is designed to run at 7V not 12V.

So you have the resistor to drop the voltage from 12V to 7V.

When you turn the key the starter motor will turn. this causes the 12V to drop to 7V (this is only when you turn the key to start)and the voltage at the coil will be 4V (not enough for a good spark)instead of the voltage for the coil coming from the resistor it comes from the 12Vwhich has dropped to 7V due to the starter motor running.

hope this helps its hard to explain.

So I just need to lose the resistor and get a 12V coil?

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With a 7V coil, the normal feed is through a ballast resistor that drops the 14V from your alternator to the 7V it requires. During starting, that resistor is shorted out to compensate for the massive voltage drop caused by the starter motor taking a few hundred amps to crank over the engine..

If you drop all of that, then you may find it harder to start, as you get a piddly spark because of said voltage drop.

I had a real problem with this on one of my old RS2000's, and it was only when I'd burnt out the starter motor that I found out the direct feed that disconnects the ballast resistor had fallen off. I'd spent the whole winter going around with a spare battery and a set of jump leads by then of course. Mind you, this probably won't happen here, as I was in Holland at the time, and the temepratures were regularly below -30, which didn't help.

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Errr... that'll help with the voltage drop in a long length of sh*t wiring, but won't account for the pasting that the starter motor is giving the battery.

The alternative is to use 2 batteries in series for starting, so 24->12V feed. Stuffs starter motors mind.

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most cars don't have any problems starting, with a 12v coil. thus a relay would get the best current feed possible under any circumstance, regardless of voltage. I'd go as far as saying it'll be fine to start hot or cold on a 12v coil, even with voltage troughs with the current draw.

it's a 'low comp' engine as far as things go these days, and I'll take a gamble in saying that the factory coil runs 12v, with no ballast. aftermarket ECU may require the use of a 12v coil too.

only way to find out is to 'suck it and see'

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