RT Posted May 26, 2005 Author Share Posted May 26, 2005 Yes it's cable clutch.. and it's stiff! I'm pretty used it but already the new heavy duty clutch is slipping a little. Basically I'm sick of now being able to put the power down. 1st gear is and has always been a bit of a joke really. I've only just started looking into this so I don't know all the details. But from what I've heard a correctly setup auto won't loose much power. Once its on full lock there's no reason why it should as it's just the same as full lock on a manual. and because I will be able to just floor it and it will haul right through all the long gears it will suit the torque of the engine better than trying to quick change through 5 gears down the strip. I'd go for a powerglide or a b&m shift kit too. No tunnel mods. The Celica box would need mucking around with the bellhousing, clutch issues, speedo etc issues and gearstick issues, crossmember issues and finally the driveshaft. what i'm planning won't require any of this. Better for dragging, better for cruising it's really seems the way to go. SYKOV6 I'd be keen to know more aye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 hmmmm just read an article by Vizard about using the C4 trans on a boosted pinto.. the main problem is the C4 vacume line is not designed for boost. I can bleed it off from the modulator before it pressurizes the cannister using a special valve from somewhere I've never heard of. But the problem with this is that the trans thinks it's getting full power when there's no vacume in the manifold, so it shifts at part throttle like it's operating at full.. making a feirce shift constantly. Otherwise I can install the vacuume line 'downstream of the carb but upstream from the turbo'..umm I guess before the turbo in the intake pipe..there can be vacuume at part throttle but also enough air to cause boost. So the trans is loaded up for part throttle but the torque output is more than a stock engine causing rapid clutch wear. And apparently you can loose up to 20hp with an auto.. errr I don't like the sound of that. I can't run anymore boost unless I get a bigger turbo exhaust housing. Then again, powers only good if you can put it to the ground.. loosing 20hp but fully ultilising the rest would still make it a lot faster. better do some more research.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 dude, just wondering.. what clutch are you running at the mo, and what clutch cable?!?! asking cause ive snapped god knows how many goddamn clutch cables and not even doing burnouts or anything! they always seem to go at the pedal end where the cable meets the metal hook thingie.. or sometimes at the gearbox end... chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYKOV6 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 hey RT i have the same prob because my engine gas a huge cam and big ports carb etc it has no vacuum causing the trans to short shift at about 4000 revs i have put in an adjustable vacuum modulator on the trans and wound it in so it hangs in gear longer[5000rpm] when im fanging it i lock it in gear and shift manually[ 7500] and your right that 20hp is no good to u if it just goes up in smoke. wheel spin doesnt make for qik 1/4s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 david - are you running a Xflow? I went through heaps of cluch cables on my escort. It's all to do with the angles of the cable coming out of the firewall. They used to snap the head clean off the pedal end. Some people modify the firewall hole and weld in a MKII part to solve the problem. I just used some cable ties to keep the clutch cable in the correct position on the firewall. The other problem can be the inner-skin behind the firewall if the cable is slopping around it touches and wears.. It's a MK1 escort problem dude.. doesn't happen on capris or mk2's. Sykov6, that shouldn't happen if you're in n/a ? so it snap shifts all the time driving around the street huh? or did the adj. vacuum modulator fix it. (where do u get one) Do you reckon you lost 20hp with an auto? I reckon being able to keep the pedal down all the way would make a huge difference. When I button off and change gear and floor it again there's significant time loss in that. Apparently the C4 was used behind some 4cyc's I just don't know what ones... maybe Sierra ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 damn mk1s lol.. nah its not david its ivan but yeah im running a bored out xflow so that angle thing might be the reason aye. ive just drilled a mutha hole in the firewall for the cable as it used to be a manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 but your name says david.. anyway, you've lost me, you say it 'used to be a manual' you mean it's now an auto? then why are we discussion clutch cables..??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 fuck sorry dude, we got a fuckin latino live band at work i cant even think straight... um nah it was a manual conversion from auto, yeah davidian is a song btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYKOV6 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 RTwith no vacuum my trans is lazy it shifts up gears by itself even with my foot down. this is normally cured by the kickdown system that runs off the throttle by a cable. as my set up has no provision for a cable kickdown it is soley reliant on the vac modg for the signal when to change at wide open throttle. whether my engine does not have enough vac to send the correct signal or my vac line is not big enough is yet to b seen. im not sure if the c4 has the same system as my chevy trans ithink they work differently. when i disconnect the vac line altogether it will shift at 2000rpm at full throttle. im pretty sure that ford uses a kickdown cable instead of a vac modulater. i never said i lost 20 hp said they take more power to run . be cause an auto is basically a hydrolic pump it takes power to drive the pump to lock the gearbox up . its never locked 1-1 like a manual with your foot off the clutch.look up torque convertor on the net you should get the jist how it all works. it would take too long to explain it here. yeah it is heaps qiker to have ya foot planted and keep it there at the strip. autos are also more consistant in the times they run for obvious reasons 1 missed change and yave lost 1/2 sec in a manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 oh I read in a article by David Vizard that autos are up to 20bhp losses. But that's an old book.. Yeah I've got a C4 trans on my Falcon and the kickdown works pretty well. When you give it the big boot it shifts pretty hard out. If I could get that to work behind my boosted 2L.. it would work well. Unfortunately it seems like the C3 was the main option for the 2L.. but there appears to be one model capri 2L and a MKIII cortina that had the C4. I've googled for hours and havn't come up with much so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYKOV6 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 was the capri a 4 or v6 with the c 4? some 6cyl aussie cortys had c 4s most were borg warner 35s same as your falcon. what about getting somone to strengthen a 2l pinto c3 ? there must b some good trans shops down in chch. any one who builds good race trans could mod a stocker to do what ya want. all most shift kits do is increase the oil line press resulting in firmer shifts. the convertor will cost abit mine cost $500 for a 3000 stall . ya need to get a convertor that will let the engine boost with ya foot on the brake. most wont let ya load them up that far but will "flash stall" to that rpm ie plant foot from idle engine will instantly rev to stall speed then lock up and your off. mine will only stall up to 2500 with foot on brake. but will flash to 3000 . what diff gears have ya got. a 3000 stall with 4.11 gears wont b with 3.5 gears prob b around 2000. when ya get a stallie built they will want to know- car weight,diff gears,tyre dia,what revs you start to make boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 dunno aye.. the Falcons a C4.. I probably need to talk to someone to see how much power they could make a C3 handle. boost starts at around 3000rpm and is singing at 3800rpm.. I'm still running a 3.54 diff but got a V6 Atlas I was gonna put in with a 3.22 but I was gonna get a LSD to suit whatever I needed. Apparently for an auto you'd want a lower ratio.. maybe even a 4.7:1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYKOV6 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 ya coon must b a bit of a rare bird not many had c 4. youd prolly a 3500 stall and 3.9- 4.11 diff gears. not much good for highway cruzin but good for drags and traffic light grand prix. id definatly look at the c 3 could just about get one for free then build it up and would bolt straight on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 27, 2005 Author Share Posted May 27, 2005 Just read a full article by Vizard.. He goes right through modifying the C3 to cope with 300-400+bhp. It's pretty complicated, requiring many parts from the 302V8 C4. Clutch packs and servo's etc basically beefing up the C3... Not a job for the garage artist like myself and I reckon a fully custom rebuild of a C3 would be mightly expensive.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SYKOV6 Posted May 27, 2005 Share Posted May 27, 2005 i reckon it would cost about $2000 to build a good trans plus convertor. weigh that up against the cost of a new clutch/gearbox better ratios etc prolly not too far from it. just depends how serious u are. get a trans now and build it up over time while the capris still going then it not off the road for too long when the manual finally shits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted May 28, 2005 Share Posted May 28, 2005 just bluesing in here, i think that it's a good plan to swap to auto, gotta be original here at oldschool aye but yeah good luck man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 28, 2005 Author Share Posted May 28, 2005 The mystery continues...it seems like the MK1 capri had a C4 trans and a Borg Waner 35.. The MK2 just had the C3 which was a lighter version of the Borg Waner 35. So I think I need a C4 from an automatic capri. A custom 3500 stall and a shift kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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