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Ca18det Mk1


Gaz

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Has anyone done this conversion Ca18det or sr20det or can put me onto someone who has?

Think i might scrap the idea of 2l pinto turbs as this would be a much more power efficient way to make 200kw@wheels. :twisted:

Am just tossing the idea up at the moment but any help would be good so i can make a budget up.

Thanks.

Gazza

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200 would be nice. Should be do-able with the turbo i am using. I was going to go with about 130 with a turbo pinto but then who says i wont want more. At least with the Ca18det there can always be more. Mini tubs will also be on the cards.

Blue VR4 van from Rotorua. I am from Rotorua just moved to Welly tho.

If ya could get his name and shit that'd be a good help.

Cheers guys

Ill keep ya posted

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yea should be sweet, apparently the ca series is good for down low torque whereas the sr series has more of the top end stuff ...im not 100% on that though , also the sr20 has a nasty knack of getting the oil galleries blocked that go to the cams so if u own one and it sounds like a sqeaky belt and you adjust that belt and that noise is still there...id stop the car unless you want the lobes to disapear overnight!!!, no cure but a full rebuild unfortunatly , easily fixed by CHANGIN YOUR OIL FILTER and the recomended intervals, told my ex that and she didnt listen ....i could go get the cams if u want :lol: ...just my 20cents

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Think you got them mixed up a bit there mongol. The Sr has the low down torque where as the ca is a rev hungry little bastard. :twisted: The SR does have a differant designed head tho. It only has 4 lobes per cam where as the Ca has 8 as normal. Means the Sr will be noisier in that department.

Im going towards a Ca at the moment anyways as i can get one with box for around 1000 where as sr is 2500 with box. Also a gasket and bottom bearing set for the ca is $300. nice and cheap. Not much in it as the differance in power is 10kw i think, and a whole lotta torque which will just make me spin up a storm anyways.

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Its not cheap.. you won't see much change from $10,000 but if you do most of it yourself you might get away with around $6,000. You will need a custom sump and pickup, a custom exhaust manifold and custom inlet manifold, custom engine mounts. An auto trans would be very helpful for the gearbox, custom g/box crossmember, you will have speedo problems too as the nissan gearboxes use an electronic sender rather than the old esky cable, custom propshaft for nissan gearbox, you will need a hilux rear end or similar as well which is a mission in itself. And a brake upgrade would have to be a top piority too, 4pot front with vent/discs at least.

oh and neither a SR or a CA will make 200kw at the rears from factory..so you'll have to mod the engine too. Oh and you'll have to have an aftermarket computer as the factory nissan computers don't seem to be adaptable to other wiring looms/cars very successfully.

here's somebody doing it:

http://classicford.mine.nu/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=294

here's a cost list of a CA into a datto1600, but it's parts only and the datto is an easier swap for nissan engines too.. :

http://www.turbophile.com/turbophile.ht ... sts.html&1

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Yeah i have done a budget which has got me to the figure of $6400 which should be over estimated as alot of the stuff i have rounded up. Then also remembering i will have missed some things out. Most of the fabrication will be done for cost+beer ie, tunnel, mounts and tubs. Speedo cable on the old s12's gearbox was mechanical so thats all good. I have added a remote servo into my budget so am thinking the standard manifold will be fine. Aparently the steering column gets in the way but i have a small fix for that.

Was planning on doing the diff anyway so driveshaft also has to be done when diff is done.

To get 200 ill be doing

3inch from turbo then 2.5

Td05h version7

550cc injectors

Fuel pump

FMIC, BOV, and Wastegate

Microtech full computer and loom.

and about 17psi boost

That should give me around 190kw@da rubber hopefully 200 :)

they are just under 140@wheels standard.

Cheers for that website to RT will have a look now.

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Yeah that sounds about right. Well shit the cars already worth half what iv put into it. Why not go the whole hog!!!

Just found out the computers nissan use in the ca18det are a similar computer to the delco. I.e can be re-mapped via the eeprom.

"A lot of readers may be interested to know that the fastest Nissan road cars in the states still run the stock Nissan ECU." quotes some dude on a site i was on.

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Guest escort_boy

yea thats what i was told as well aye.. triple everything.. time money etc

but if u do it shit it will be wicked as!

i got a sr20e engine less alternator and coil packs if ur interested

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Id say it all depends on how rushed you are to do stuff. If you can wait for things to pop up and have money to buy them at the time then it can be a lot cheaper. I hopefully will have a lot of hookups for this job so that would be great. If i dont get the go ahead from them then it might be a change in plan yet again.

All in all hopefully its do-able at a price im willing to pay.

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mate ive always done over 80% of the work on my cars and that theory always seems right its not the big jobs that cost all the money its all of the little ones that ya dont think about that add up . then at the end ya look at the invoices for all of those jobs and go ohh fuck whered that all come from. i think RT will agree with me on that one

dave

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you should still be able to use the standard loom and ECU. and if its a RWD Ca18 (i cant remember if theres a FWD version) then the inlet should be sweet too.

there was a Mk1 eskie on trademe a while ago that was setup for an RB25. had Nissan diffs and struts too. used the 5stud too. so its posibly. that thing sold for like 800 minus brakes and engine and it was certed.

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Yeah i see, all the shit that you dont add to the equation always get ya. iv been there done that also. adds up little by little.

Could end up costing more but im willing to put as much as it takes into it. Im only 21 and want to fully build a car before i decide to buy a house. Thinking to do it once and do it right. After the house is in the equatiuon it leaves little money for cars i would think.

Would i be right about that guys?

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Totally! don't let us put you off spending big money on cars!

we're just pointing out that conversions are often very expensive and any build will cost you 3 times what you plan.

hell, I added up the receipts once for insurance purposes..and I'm never gonna do it again! :oops: ..and the folder is a lot fatter now :rolleyes:

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i spent alot of money rebuilding and repowering an lc gtr torrie it was fukin nice but i never really got the satisfaction of using it much i was always worried about what might happen if i left it somwhere or i didnt want to get it dirty or drive it in the rain. as a result i harly drove th fuker. then i got bored and sold it and used th doe to buy a house. but houses are good cause ya never loose money on em and ya can borrow heaps for a car off em so buy a house first then build the car

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Haha. i know as soon as i get a house itll be me finished with cars. Ill want to do a nice fence and new carpet, paint the outside with candy :) .... what im saying is money will go into house rather than car. 1 at a time for now.

Now all i need is a money making scheme to get the doe in the first place. or i might go on a fishing boat for a few weeks over break. Thats good money hard earned.

Have been reading a few more sites now and looks like steering column is in the way. Also the standard manifold can be used if i ditch the brake servo. I hate that fukn servo and have wanted it out for a while now. Anyone know a cheap fix to the prob, or a cheap place in nz that does remote servos.

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