andy

Cool project. Looking forward seeing it progress. Andy.

cheers. I will have an ask around. I recently sold an oxy cylinder (out of test but mint) as I was told they couldnt be converted too argon. Would be gutted if I could have converted it!

good point.

Theres a place here in AK offering bottles and fills for around $480ish? They apparently do fills too. What does AFAIK mean???

Up until a year ago I have had access to a TIG and gas through work but a change of jobs has put an end to that. Im looking to purchase a TIG in the near future. Where abouts do guys using TIG at home get your Argon? Are you using owner bottles or renting? Does renting work out cost effective when using the welder for project work ie every weekend? Also does anyone have experience with either of these units? http://www.bocworldofwelding.com.au/wel ... c-185.html http://www.esseti.co.nz/xatig180p-inver ... -p-93.html Ive used older more basic models by both brands in the past and both seemed alright. These are around the $1200 mark. There are also AC/DC Jasic machines on TM for just under a grand. Anyone got one? Cheers. Andy.

gotta be careful with the sealant if your hood lining runs into the window seal. I have always spent the extra to fit new window rubber where it is available. Saves alot of hassle later on.

I dont either. I use meths. It neutralises the acid and then flashes off. Then a quick rub with keyphos and your bare metal is good for 8 - 12 months.

navel jelly uses phosphoric acid but it is in a jelly like solution whereas jenolite etc are a light liquid. I tried to find a way of adding something to make the jenolite hold better as this would be ideal for vertical surfaces. I guy at the paint shop advised recently that all phosphoric acid products were being taken off the market.

neither rust converter or PA10 will get rid of the rust. It will just back and wreck your paint. Have a look at this thread and do this if you only want to do it once. You cant get the navel gel they use in NZ so can use jenolite. http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthre ... +willys%22

Patch panels are a really good start if available for what ever your build may be. They are more often than not not perfect but its alot easier than forming a panel from stratch. These pics show the lower door post repair using purchased repair parts. They are usually bigger than required which leaves material to be cut away. My aim is to cut and remove every once of rust. My coupe has a black peppering over some of the bare metal which is quite common on 30+ year old steel. To remove this and save the steel I use stainless wire wool and jenolite. Its really labour intensive but it works really well. Have a look at the attached link. Metalmeet is a good site for any sheetmetal/welding advice. http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthre ... +willys%22

haha. You must be a sparky! Im not planning on ever removing them. That said it will make painting alot easier if they come off. Im thinking maybe machining a groove and putting an E clip to the bottom of the pin.

im a fitter so generally leave the big hammers to the sparkies.......

Ive not seen dome heads stocked at the lengths I need and I dont really want the hex visable. I guess I could TIG and grind it. I dont mind peening the other end as I figure they have already lasted 62 years so I will be dead by the time they come around again Andy.

Cheers people. Yeah I went and checked cap screw sizes this afternoon. If no pins are available I will machine the head into a dome then peen the other end.

said engineer would be me. If I cant get pins I will turn some up but thought I might/should try to get em first.

Hello. As above I am looking for somewhere to buy door hinge pins for my coupe and google has yelded no results. The pins i've removed are 9/32 (7.14mm) dia. but the hinges are a bit flogged so i'm ideally looking for something around 5/16 (7.94mm) and I will mod the hinges to suit. They will need to be about 2 3/4 (~70mm) in length. The oem part has a spline that retains the pin and is scrolled for lube but I can work around this. Any info appreciated. Cheers. Andy.

PBR VH44. You can still buy them new from brake part suppliers. Last I looked they were $350-$400 ish. I think Hillman Cunters had them from factory. You can mount them anywhere.

I did it years ago but used a VH44 booster. Easy mod. Are you going too DCOE's?

Still havn't received my floors out of the States but have been messing around getting the body realigned. Spent a day last weekend cutting and getting the lower door post ready to weld. Still havnt sourced a TIG so will carry on with trial fittings.

cool mate, the TIG is awesome for automotive work. Im shoping for a TIG at the moment. Whats auto TIG?

Arc welding is used everywhere in structural work and always will be. Far more versatile than a MIG but you need to actually know how to weld to use it correctly. Its not just point and shoot. Don't forget that welding is trade. "good enough is good enough sometimes" What! Andy.

http://www.metalmeet.com/ This is a good site/forum for metal shaping and welding. At first maybe a little hard to negotiate.

I used to live next door to a guy who worked in service for a well known Merc dealership. He used to do homers and I would get a look at how they were built. He summed it up that they were alot of quality, expensive parts but assembled poorly. I remember he had an early 90's sedan with a stuffed speedo. This was maybe 2001-2. The new part (complete cluster) was about 5K!!! It was probably a half of the cars value. I like em anyway.

I just edited in another link with a PDF. Good pics.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e- ... -e320.html http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e- ... aning.html