andy

Im keen to see some before and after pics of how this turns out and also a ball park on what it costs. Im gonna need my coupe painted sooner or later and its a grey area as to what you get for your money. My wifes car needs some work also. Cheers.

Yeah they do stretch the steel a little but I've actually found that after tig welding the new patch in place it shrinks back perfect so that's a bonus.

Alot of people seem to use cutting disks for removing panel steel and I do in tight/heavy areas but of late ive had good/better success using a good pair of tin snips.

Cheap MIGs are worst that cheap TIGs due to all the moving parts. In my experience its generally the wire feed system that plays up. I put down some company coin on a Kempi 180 mig and came away highly disappointed to the extent after it failed for the third time we returned it. Also of interst, I was talking to the Lincon sales rep a few months back and they have recently introduced a lower end chinese TIG to compete with the lower end of the market.

Those first three look to be the same machine in different packaging? They must be alright as they have been selling them for a long time. Probably the biggest question is how much use it is going to get and how good at welding are you? I used an Xcelarc $1200 machine professionally for three years and it never missed a beat.

You will probably get enough heat with a heat gun. You are only trying to expand the nut pint fuck all of a mm. If this fails split the nut with a cut off disc. I'm assuming it's not a left hand thread and that you are cranking the right direction.

Cheers for the tips. I'll try with the Sika.

Thanks. Yeah he's cut it for clearance on the engine sump even though he could have just changed the engine mounts... Kinda like digging a hole under you wheel to change a flat tyre.

You're on a roll Clint! One for my coupe. The previous owner made a mod to a fixed chassis cross member with a gas axe. There is still a lot of meat in it but is this Likely to be a major? Does this fall under your cert or the repair cert? Cheers. Andy

I had a simular issue with a 1600 x-flow running a 28/36 weber. It was to do with the float according to Murray at weber specs and happened during acceleration and even if idling on a hill. There was also issues with a badly ground cam. Sorted it with a pair of DCOEs and a new cam. DCOEs fix everything. I can sort you out with Aeromotive fuel pumps and regs if you have the need.

Can someone in the know recommend a good quality body seam sealer for the floors on my project car? I used Sikaflex many years ago but I can't remember which one. Is the sealer best applied to bare metal or primered surfaces? Cheers Andy

Factory blue for sure. I have old pics of a blue 327 car from bitd I will post. I IMO these are one of the best looking cars ever built. Love that you are doing it right.

Who is it? Sounds like that clint fella. He will get a call soon as well! No questions on his (or his bosses) integrity.

Local guy from over here on the shore. I'm not questioning his reliability or skills but more just interested in what governing body he would answer too. Ive been burnt too many times on this project so like some idea of costs up front where possible.

Buzz buzz spelling bee

So I'm looking at starting the cert process, both repair and mod. I've spoken with a repair cert guy and he quoted $100 to get started. Once I start with this guy am I stuck with him? If he is a douce or kells over etc what can I do? Hypothetical of coarse!

Did you get a repair cert before commencing body work? It's something I'm looking at now. Maybe blue with that 70s brown/tan/orange colour interior... Or black.

Looks good. Nice manifold. Were you in Albany last weekend?

Nice work! Is HPC doing your acid dipping and powder coating the inner fenders etc?

Engine. 302 Windsor, 30 thou over, mild cam grind with stock heads. Basically its a completely rebuilt stock engine save for some mild porting, over bore and mild cam grind for a bit of character in the idle. I also have a rebuilt C4 to back it up. Wade Engine Reconditioners in Penrose did an awesome job machining the engine at a very good price. Highly recommended.

Im looking at "olds gold" for my engine. Alot of guys on the HAMB have used it and reckon its good. Guess I will find out for myself in time!

Not really up with auto paints so will I get better results painting (brush) this in a hot or a cold temperature? ie. oil based paints like warmer temp as it flows better as opposed to water based which is better cold.

Cheers I will check it out. I know the place. The guy from the auto paint place in Penrose must be taking the piss at $120!

Cheers Spencer. I found some on trademe for $68.

Hello. Looking to buy some por15 gold engine paint. I'm going to brush it on. Been told I'm looking at $120 for 500mls. Can anyone recommend a good vendor or have any experience either way on this product? Will 500 ml do a 302 and C4? Cheers. Andy.