f100_dreamin

This is true, another thing to factor in I suppose

Be quiet thomas haha, All research points to 225/30/20 being the go, (not sure about the 235 though) having a higher spring perch would mean having to change springs too, perfect world i would just chuck coilovers in, but im not, am still waiting to see what the boss wants for the wheels anyway, he may want more than im actually willing to spend and if that the case, ill stick with the 18s haha, oh and for some reason i cant get the video to upload to photobucket, so will try another video which is fromt he missuses snapchat and is basically 1990s spec quality,

Ok so have been finishing up a few of the little jobs while I waiting to get the last big pieces. Bought a flywheel cover off J.E.D (via trademe) probably paid too much but they don't seem to come up that often. Had to make a small modification to make it fit but it's on now, As I mentioned earlier I got the p/s pump fitted, here's proof Modified the shifter, it's pretty ugly but it works, got all the trim back on looks good and the shifter pretty much came out in the factory position. As mentioned the exhaust is a bit quiet. Chucked a 20" rim on to see how it looked, I like it but the tyre is way too big/it's hard against the spring perch on the strut Took the car outside and gave it a wash as it hadn't been washed since January, And lastly I let my impatience get the better of me, as of late it's been misfiring and coughing a bit, likely from the plugs fouling because of all the short running times the engine has operated in due to the lack of cooling system (just running up in the garage for testing a few things etc) I looped the heater hoses, put the radiator hoses on, filled an bled the cooling system and took the car for a hoon around my local area. Cough cough "To erm clean the plugs" Such a blast to be able to drive it after all the work I've put in so far. Makes a great noise, louder than expected, pulls cleanly, backfires a bit of you get get on an off the gas while cruising, It did however breakdown within about 200m of home, luckily it just turned out to be the coil to dizzy HT lead had fallen off the coil, slapped it back on and back in business Will post a video shortly when photobucket stops sucking dick

Picture less update (lame I know) P/S pump is done and mounted lines all plumbed and system is bled, exhaust is joined but is actually too quiet. Just need to modify the shifter, and refit the centre console, buy and fit heater hoses and a radiator fan then it's drive time!! 5/8ths of fuck all left!

So after throwing the gearbox back in I realised quickly there was going to be an issue! (Click to play video) Unfortunately the fittings that came with the concentric slave fouled on the pressure plate, I looked at a few options for this but decided in the end that having the lines remade with a 45 degree fitting was the best way (plus it meant I didn't have to take the gearbox back out) Fast forward a week or two every thing is fitted and we have clearance All that's left now is to rebuild and fit the P/S pump, mate the exhaust up, source and fit heater hoses, and sort out a thermo fan! SO CLOSE!!!

So I got the brake line adapters to go from the VT master cylinder to VL lines from Stirling brake and clutch up here in dorkland, Fitted: No gravity fed leaks as yet!! I then decided to do the rest of the V8 brake upgrade Old 270mm setup New: Just needs to be bled up now. Apparently the 290mm V8 calliper and rotors with the VS booster and VT master, is a great upgrade over the shitty non turbo 6 cyl 270mm setup which is good because it was scarily bad haha Hopefully will find the motivation tomorrow night to re kit the p/s pump and mount that and the lines.

Hey all, on the home straight now, made a gearbox crossmember, got all my V8 front brake parts Got my concentric slave cylinder (I know Kiwibirdman didnt reccomend Howe racing, but after a lenghty conversation with the supplier i decided to take the risk) Got an adapter to go from the VL master cylinder to the braided line for the slave cylinder, Took a perfectly good bellhouse and made a hole for the bleed line, made some measurement to ensure the correct clearance between the clutch presure plate release bearing and fitted everything up, Gearbox is now in the car (hopefully for the last time) Also picked up my driveshaft from Beattys, no picture of that but im sure you can all imagine what a long black shaft looks like, all in all, progressing nicely!!

Easiest way to tell if it has a tint film, is to try run a blade's sharp edge into the glass. If it has a film it will pick up. If it doesn't it will slide on the glass no worries

Biggest question is: did you deliver?

Still need to build an exhaust as that is open headers haha, Still need to sort the concentric slave cylinder setup, get driveshaft made, buy an ignition module (as the one I'm using is a test one from work), thermo fan and wiring, reseal p/s pump, drive belts, battery bracket, driveshaft loops, front brake upgrade (have got a pair of v8 callipers so just need rotors, wheel bearings and pads) Aside from the driveshaft and clutch parts it's all Mainly just small stuff, Am on track for my self imposed deadline

So it's been a while since the last update, wiring is all completed and this happens when the key is turned Click on the picture

What are you after for that j.e.d?

Yeah but won't sound the same. It's just a cruiser for now. Turns out I won't need to cut the tunnel, just need to make a shifter for it. Can't imagine that a rear shifter will pop up very often

So one of the jobs I was least looking forward to was the wiring, but I've made a start on it. First up was to rifle through all the manuals at work until I found the one I wanted (actually a VR commodore one but VR/VS is the same). I then found the V8 PCM wiring diagram and photocopied it (so I could draw on it haha) I removed all the auto trans wiring first No pics but I'm sure you can imagine a pile of unwanted wiring on the ground. Next was to start identifying the power in from the efi relay, constant battery, and ignition. The ECU output to the fuel relay. Confirm the ECU earths. And lastly work out the instrument cluster signal wires. Next up will be to find the applicable wires in the VLs loom and join everything!

Small update, put the gearbox in so I can work a few bits and pieces out, xmember is going to be a simple job. Got the measurement for the driveshaft so will be able to get that sent off to beattys driveshafts in the next couple of weeks. Just waiting to see what measurements I need to work out which slave cylinder I'll need. The shifter will need a bit of work however, it sits quite far forward so will have to put a couple of bends into it to make it work Also found out that the battery tray will need to be removed to allow clearance for the p/s pump. So looks like I'll have to put that in the boot. Again not something I had planned to do but my hand has been forced.

Another Wednesday boys night has seen more progress an a slight deviation from the original plan First up got these installed This is where the deviation came into play, what you can't see is that these pedals are a hydraulic set, the cable pedal box I had been planning on using, for one reason or another just would not go in the car. So the decision was made to bite the bullet, and go with a concentric slave setup. With the engine out and the pedal box in process, the VS plastic booster and VT master cylinder was fitted, just need to get a set of single to double flare adapters from Aussie now, no pics but they would be boring any way With that done, we waterblasted the engine bay, which meant it was time for this: Pretty stoked, need to get the car up now so I can put the gearbox in and work out the measurements for the slave setup. Am actually happy that my hand was forced as I had planned to do this eventually. It will come at the cost that I'll probably end up doing the wiring myself but at least when it's done I can take pride that I did everything myself at least!! Any way, cheers for reading

So the boys came round last night, very productive evening, got the motor and trans out, pushed the car out turned it around and then removed the K Frame too. Now I'm going to spend a bit of time tidying the engine bay, will replace the booster and master cylinder. Fit the new k frame and Waterblast/degrease the engine, workout what to do with the fuel lines as they are currently half way down the chassis rail but need to be run up the firewall. I need to do some research on how my cruise control works in the car/see if I can run it with the v8 and if I can I'm going to try run it inside the guard to help tidy up the engine bay. And also look into setting up a/c as the car has it factory so would love to keep it

Made a start tonight, got the radiator and ancillaries off the motor, got the boys coming round tomorrow so will hopefully end up with the motor and maybe even the trans out Anyway pics to prove I actually did something Ended up with this pile of parts (plus the radiator and shroud) Chur

So found this hiding on page 3. The bushes on the above post have all been fitted to the V8 k frame, decided against powdercoating the subframe and arms as realistically the only time it will get seen is when I roll the bloody car haha. Anyway took the family to Kumeu in this, and my wife decided it was too fumey which made her nauseous and that it was going to be her last drive in it until the V8 was installed (because that will be less fumey - tui ad right there) so while there are no pictures in this post, following posts should include photos actual work occurring on this thing, with a goal of having everything in and running by the end of April

This place is what dreams are made of!! Awesome work, it's great to be able to see such change in such a short time!!

Just so you know, the workshop that put the WOF on it are legally obliged to put the vehicle up to WOF standard at their own cost. If not report them to LTNZ and they will make them put it to WOF standard

Loving this thread man, nothing like some in depth diagnostics to get the brain ticking over

yeah that reading just doesn't look quite correct though,

Have you got fuel pressure at the time of scoping the injectors? I ask as after the induced spike the voltage drops really fast Usually I would expect to see a more gradual drop with a pintle hump (as the injector pintle drops to the seat, the metal pintle moving out of the injector windings creates a small current)

Are you able to put up a screenshot of the scope on the injector pulse.