Esky_addict

8 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I just thought about your shim heights.

What you could do is mock up one half of the diff, and inspect the mesh between the side gear and the spider gears using bearing blue. This would give you an idea of how much extra packing to add.

Yep thats what im planning to do bit hard though as even the sidegear slops slightly on the axle splines, I see what you mean with the mirabito vid he seemed to just wing it abit with the shims and it looked bloody tight, being dry probably didn't help. 

Abit of info here if you can wade through it all. 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-board/239666-everything-i-know-about.html

22 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Yeah I know about this.

As Clint says, you need to make sure that the back face of the cone is bottomed in the housing. (These can be machined to re-invigorate a worn out set if you know an engineer/machinist)

There's actually a semi decent video on farcebook about it. (I'll try find it) 

However, there's a couple of things this guy gets wrong, so I'll bring those to you attention if I find that video too)

Thanks ill check out the video, seen a few of his but musta missed this one. 

I must be on the right track, I had already machined a bit off the end of the cones, not alot about 1mm. They are pretty warn so it's never going to be perfect anyway.

I was a bit suspect of the diff so I pulled the head out for a squizz and found the cross was shattered, so I suspect as you say the cones have worn that much that much that mesh opened up too much and allowed them to bind up and break.

I found a forum from the states with a lot of info, it had the measurements you speak of but I can't use them as the diff in question is actually a holden salisbury not a BW but they seem to be basically identical, I was also pleasantly surprised to see it had been 4 pinion swapped and as far as I know they use BW internals in them when they do this, im not sure if the cones and side gears are GMH or BW units though, BW would be good as they are still available new.

Plan so far is to assemble one half on an axle vertically and then shim the side gear up until the backlash is almost all gone, then do the same with the other half.

Im guessing the mesh will have a little bit of wiggle room as its constantly changing as the cones wear down. Anyone know how far they are from bottoming out in the housing with new cones?  

21 hours ago, 440bbm said:

why not just stick a known bulletproof truetrac in it and not have to worry about all that polava.

job done and move on with something that actually needs a technical fingering.

Yeah I ordered one yesterday to build a 2nd diff, since its offset for a different ratio I cant use it in this diff but may i aswell get this one back together for bugger all to keep the car rolling, learn something, and then keep it as a spare. 

Hey @johnny.racehave you or anyone else for that matter had any experience with shimming a BW type lsd center? 

Saw it parked up there, looked bloody ace. Seeing the build thread on here beforehand made it even more impressive. 

On 23/05/2022 at 19:48, Nominal said:

Didn't notice if it was rocking a gt bonnet by any chance @Nominal?

Hey dabuzz does your sonar work? We just brought one and apparently there's supposed to be a magnet in the trailer plug flap or something that enables it, looks like ours is missing 

@dabuzzkeen on the fuel usage aswell we are looking at a titanium decisions between petrol or deez tho.

On 25/11/2021 at 01:32, deankdx said:

XE GHIA ^^
in Melbourne AU, between the headlights and mirrors and maybe some interior trim there's probably $2000 without needing much more than a screw driver to remove

Yea it was one of the old pisswags, we ruined a few ghias bit of a shame but will be keeping the good bits and scrapping the rest 

Pretty hungry. I've got a 3.8 surf 35s suck some power out but still goes pretty hard for what it is can handle a hiding aswell.

Was 6k+auction fees. Me an a mate were on a mission for some parts up chch way so called in on the saturday for a look was cleaned out with no paperwork. Won the auction on Monday and flew back up Tuesday and drove it home. When I picked it up they gave me the ownership papers and a stack of reciepts. The ended up totaling about 23k spent on it since about 2014. 

Sweet sounds like what I'm after, do you remember where it came from or was it just like rolled up bundy tube brake line type stuff?

Was that with PTC fittings @MRWEST?

What kind of hardline are you fellas running? 

Looks like the one tortron couldn't find any 8 pin ones on there though. Might need to get a pair of 12s and re-pin them 

Anyone know what kind of plug this it so I can source it's mate? Need to join onto this but not keen to cut connector off to join wires.

Brought an old ln106 hilux couple months back. Trucking along on engine number 2

1 hour ago, Guypie said:

Chur

Just found this thread too

 

Yep think I got them from comac in the end worked a treat

Yea just the outers @cletus after some 14x8s though

Any one have a contact at TWL for some AG rims. Not too keen on paying 195+ each for them lol. 

Elite wheels will be the next stop.

Just sold my ba xr6 had for 7 years and t5 was still hanging in there after 220kms. Definitely went hard for what it was.

Grabbed this from the rotary thread, anyone know a paint code or name for the Matt green rx2?

Haha thought I had seen those somewhere before

Place needs more warrent inspectors like this most wouldn't pick that balljoint wasn't correct especially if it was muddy/2nd hand looking with everything else but still ping you for something like no water in washer. I do all my own work and like having someone check over my stuff to make sure it's safe as it's pretty easy to forget to tighten a bolt after you've had your whole car apart lol.

Just now, Yowzer said:

Just had a LandCruiser in like five minutes ago where the customer had fit their own ball joint. It was the wrong one and the taper was too small, and therefore not seating correctly. So no, you cannot trust anyone.

In my case I'm looking at buying a cruiser with cert for 1uz and auto but now manual back to manual.

The cert is meaningless as it requires a recert, I guess it should be easier for recert tho as only the gearbox mounts/pedal box will need inspected or does the whole conversion need rechecked. 

Kind of off topic but we were on a run in a mates 68 Impala a while back fresh full build and a upper a arm bolt fell out causing the whole top arm to depart at 60mph, so no cant trust anyone lol