Rhyscar

Can confirm this is hard work. But results are amazing!

Oh man, so educational thanks @Roman and @Truenotch. My brain is suitably sated. The smaller perforations on the vibrant muffler makes sense in creating a 'boundary' layer of air at lower velocities, while the Adrenalin R is more actively creating the boundary layer by grabbing them out of the exhaust stream and stuffing them into the packing.. and being a different shape (physically as well as if you were an exhaust gas partical travelling through), it will likely absorb different parts of the noise. I think both are equally as good in terms of performance, but could offer complementary benefits in the noise department. Another interesting scenario I'd love to test is a small step down section to 2.5" (potentially even with a very free-flowing muffler) then back up. Oh man, tuning is another world, but thanks for your explanation, makes more sense now. I just want all the Doorts and not doing things by half measures is a curse sometimes!

Yeah I was wondering how that might change it. So say your Lambda is still on target (around 1 for example), but ignition timing is too retarded (or massively advanced) and you're not getting complete combustion, then in reality what the O2 sensor is reading is mostly combustion in cylinder (say 80-90%) and the remainder in the exhaust manifold with whatever air is left over... Wouldn't that provide some real weird/unstable Lambda readings? Bit of a tangent, however, thinking about that further, it's interesting to start understanding how wide the tuning window is in a lot of non-WOT scenarios... because coming in/out of corners or balancing the car on the throttle is such a common occurrence that it would make sense to optimize that for the WOT that comes after it. My experience racing tells me it's the bit before/after WOT that sets good drivers apart from average one... So given the choice, I'm picking you want to keep fuel as rich as possible without power loss.. but what is the 'ideal' end of the ignition range for partial throttle? Retarded or advanced? Yeah I'm pretty sure it will cause resonance in a weird spot which will be proportional (I don't understand wave orders very well!) to my tuned RPM of 6000. I'm picking this is what I'm noticing at 2-3000rpm. But it also has a very unlike '4cyl EFI' burble at idle which I'm interested to see if it changes as the state of tune improves. My theory is the expansion chamber increases tone... so if it sounds like a bag of angry bee's I'll be happy as long as its doesn't rasp (might be too much to ask for!) My thought track was that each muffler type (and dimension) has a certain frequency it'll muffle.. so combining a louvre baffle with a chambered baffle would target a slightly different part of the noise. But then again, your 2x mufflers are very similar in style/size and it sounds great so I'm probably thinking about it too much!

Yeah agree Murrays car sounded great! Cool thanks. Do you know what style of baffle is it? perforated tube? I'm pondering if I make a change to my exhaust. Its not very loud, but god dammit its raspy. If a muffler can tame the 3S rasp then it'll make any car sound good!

Can confirm it does not. Sounds very crisp! What muffler did you end up using?

Wheel options sound so good. Simmons would look so good but I'm sure they aren't cheap. Lots of good-quality knock off BBS LMs around had some on my BA falcon that were great.

Have been driving this a bit lately. One of my clients have a few large farms. I was asked to go check out an issue at a 4wd access only location. Had to oblige by taking the Type RA. Its just a pleasure to drive on gravel. Taken to Caffiene & Gasoline a few times with Dan in his tidy GTZ. Also found a tidy TME to park next to. I had an issue with a loose battery terminal which quickly turned into a intermittent alternator. So replaced the alternator and terminals and its been perfect ever since. I also tidied up the speedlines and swapped slightly better second hand tyres onto them in preparation for Chrome fest. Was a great day out, family enjoyed and smiles all around. On the whole very happy with how its going and looking. Clutch is still terrible and nearing being un-drivable (slips on boost 90% of the time now). But don't want to replace it until after daybreaker & Levin is tuned. Kinda sick of having so many cars ATM.

Unexciting update but lots of little jobs being ticked off the list. Might get to drive it down the street this weekend fingers crossed. Luckily, oil cooler was under warranty <1yr old so Aeroflow replaced it. Pretty grateful for the service. Oil adapter block was leaking cause I forgot to put an O-ring in it. Pretty silly mistake but all sorted now. Here's a quick rev and sound check. I'm amazing at how snappy and good it sounds. 3" with 1x adrenalin R rear muffler and it isn't painful on the ears. Much excitement for whats to come.

That beemer sounds unreal, particularly so for a churbo!

You’ll enjoy this… x-pipe steps and tubing length.

Yeah wow that’s a super flat power delivery when you get vvt working. And the high rpm dip is most definitely the yuck exhaust manifold situation. Will be interesting to see how it goes above 8000!

Yeah agree 100% it’ll be fun and fast no matter what power it makes. I’m most interested in the result because most people on the internet with 2zz’s are celica/mr2 or lotus weirdos who pay the money rather than engineering things properly themselves. I haven’t seen any properly impressive NA builds or power for that matter. Skids are a while away still.. but I do have an excess of shitty 17” goodrides in my tyre stash

Yeah this will be interesting with vvti coming in as early as possible. 2zz dyno graphs normally have a massive torque hole around 4500-5000 then start going hard once lift comes in at 5800 or something silly. I don’t think it will make power all the way to 9000 with the factory cam but should make some good noises doing it and sometimes that’s more important

I would be SO happy with that... 140kw +/-3 is my guess.

Quick update - it RUNS!! Bit of troubleshooting involved as always, but thanks to @vk327 for getting it running last night. Everything seems to work just need more time/less fuel to get it idling and revving. I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet it is considering it's 3" + 1x resonator. Has plenty of oil pressure 85psi at idle. I found a Penrite 5w30 mineral oil to run it in on so should be the pressure I should expect long term I think. I was a little worried since this engine has sat with no oil in it since 2015? or so. Wow its been a journey in the last month or so. Lots of small finishing jobs taking up time/being fiddly. 1. Welded up my leaks. Then pressure tested radiator and found a few more tiny leaks. Took a couple goes to sort these out but got there in the end. 2. Earth & battery cables run through the car. Tried to hide/do tidy. 3. Heater hoses cut off and new rubber lines to get rid of leak I couldn't weld up in place. Added a heater valve inline for future comfort (still need mounting bracket & pull cable added) 4. Extra oil pressure & water temp senders installed in filter housing. Good improvement as now I have 2x sources of reference for water & oil temp and oil press. 5. Gone to 215/40/17 tyre on the rear to match front size. Required me to adjust hub off-centre bolts to get a few mm of tyre-shock clearance. Might need a few more tweaks once I get it on alignment machine. These jobs are as un-sexy as they come, soak up heaps time but all need to be done... To do list: - Couple of oil leaks to fix now. My new Aeroflow oil cooler has a nice drip coming from the fins and the filter relocation kit has a decent leak coming from the seal so need to work out whats going on there. - Clutch bled up, only to find I've got my masters in the wrong places and has too much stroke at slave (clutch should be rear brakes, rear brakes should be front brakes etc). It's going to be a whole weekend just to sort this out. - See if I can select gear! Haven't decided how refined I want to get this just yet. It would be nice to be able to drive up and down road for my own satisfaction, but not planning on doing too much until Daybreaker rally is over and done with in the Ke20. Also I have a long list of safety/schedule A things like belts mounting, fire extinguishers and external kill switch to sort. Oldschool drags in Dec??

Nick's been smashing out the engine building progress.. Crank journals and caps had a polish along with oil pump. Oil pump looks quite recent, think it got replaced with a new toyota one last time. Brand new genuine lifters lapped in thanks to @Bearded Baldy who hoarded these for the last 20yrs... Piston ring part numbers for future reference And engine almost ready to go back in the car - missing carbs and ancillaries. Authority card inspection done, rally entered, tyres organised, new race suit on its way. We've got a basic dyno lined up for a few weeks' time so hoping for no more surprises before the rally!

Looking great must feel good to see it in the daylight! Here’s the difference between 16” and 17” on ae1xx chassis. These were actually the same Tein coil overs run at max low. Even coilovers like BC with enough adjustment run into other issues with running out of stroke and coil bind at this height - don’t use my car a guide, I’ve spent the last 15yrs perfecting the recipe and $8k on custom coilovers to get a setup that works at that height. 16’s 17’s Even with a smidge of tyre tucking into the guard, the extra height of the 17s make the sills seem quite high still. But I find the 16’s still fill the guards well and overall the car sits lower. I think it suits the size of the car better I found. plus 215/40/17 is a prick of a size to find a good tyre in (I know cause this is what my racecar is running). Most road tyres in this size have low speed/load ratings as sidewall is so thin. From my experience running 16s, 205/45/16 or 215/45/16 both have great sidewalls, smaller overall diameter and ride great.

Nick made a do-dackery thing to hold the pistons in the lathe so he could machine the tops of the pistons. 12.3CR is the goal. 0.7mm or something silly removed. Very clever bit of work. Polished and ready to go back together.

4afe will last forever you can't break them. My car was originally 4afe and it went OK. Will insert some comparison vids 4afe to blacktop below. It's not as big a difference as you think. If I were at your stage of build, I'd consider going 16's. 17's can look a little goofy on AE-series cars until you get them SUPER low. Most coilovers won't go as low as mine without a number of coil bind etc issues. And a 16 will still look great with lowering springs. 205/45/16 is also a great tyre size that'll ride and handle better than a 205/40/17.

Well done, huge amount of work. Reconfirms why I'll never paint a car myself again! you must be looking forward to getting it finished and enjoying it?

Nick has been working on making the engine combo work. Took a skim of the combustion chamber to gain a few cc's. Didn't want to take too much or mess with the spark plug area so a little on the conservative side. Also intake valves got a skim. They were from another engine (maybe even a diesel?) and are 1mm oversized. Meant they had 1-1.5mm of excess material that could be skimmed off to gain another cc or two. This leaves around 0.7mm to come off the top of the piston to get our compression ratio to where we want it. They've put up with a lot of abuse up until now so I don't think they'll miss the material. Also found a couple slightly bent (0.25mm) valves. Have straightened, but unsure if we'll use them again or replace. Rings sourced and gapped. This was part of the issue previously, we didn't have the right combo of rings and it bore-washed with all the excess fuel/oil. So paying closer attention to the details this time and got the right ones. Head and block honed and decked using a grinding stone. We can't afford any machining on either parts or compression ratio will go up.. Apart from a fresh hone, the block was actually in good condition. Is a little shorter than a virgin block, but couldn't justify the cost of oversizing another block for small amount of compression lowering. The porting on the head is the main reason why we don't want to start again with a fresh head. Lots of hours to get a virgin head to this port size.. Granted, this will be it's final rebuild, but hopefully it's enough to get us through Daybreaker rally. It's a bit of a slapped-together engine but should actually be pretty decent. Will run on avgas for extra safety (plus the fact its the same price as pump gas now!). Neither of us are engine builders or do this regularly. But it's a good learning experience. Everything has clearance, tolerance and manufacturers specs - just got to weigh up all the odds and figure out if we think it'll hold compression. It's been quite enjoyable. How hard could it be right?

Man parts look so good. Pic of your intake looks like a SW render! Excited to do some and keep seeing how this progresses.

Spent sunday doing some much-needed work on rally car. Diff re-assembled with new Weir Performance CWP I picked up when in USA earlier in the year (with solid spacer), new bearings too. Was a lot cheaper to do it this way than buy locally. This car runs a T-series diff with TRD plate centre from TE71 (with the big axles). We will never break it with a 1300cc.... Spent some time pulling an old 4k down as well to compare measurements with our block. Basic summary is ours is OK to use, slightly larger bores than what we'd prefer, but will go another round no problem. Goal is to get compression down from 14:1 (when measured more accurately we found it was actually a diesel), to around 12:1. Cam has been measured and spec (and timing) is good. Need to get compression down + Av gas to get some ignition timing cranked into it. Arias forged pistons are pretty cool. They've withstood a lot of abuse and still in OK condition. Crank is good to use again as well. Lots of measuring and re-measuring going into calculations for how to reduce compression ration. Some will come off the compression chamber, some off the piston. Looking like we'll slap it back together mostly how it was, just with lower compression.

Solving problems one step at a time. Took thursday off work (I'm working the weekend) to attack the headers. Was a bloody big job but all back together now with a bit of clearance. Hoping this is enough with growth etc. Made a bulge in my fuel tank cover for the offending rollover valve.

Floor looks stronger than the hull now! wicked stuff