Rhyscar

There's nothing wrong with preloaded if you have a shock with adjustable bump and rebound so you can control it properly.

Here's my 2c. Don't worry about the bumpsteer etc it will be fine (travel probably isn't enough to cause an issue). Preloaded springs aren't ideal I would consider taking a angle grinder to them to achieve the right height. Although keep in mind you'll be increasing your spring rate (less squat off line). Why I think this will work is that with the preloaded springs the force exerted when weight is transfered to the front is greater (spring rate measured in displacement from resting position ie kg/mm or lb/in etc) essentially the valving on your shocks is not able to control the movement of the car body as it is unloaded and therefore uneven amounts of traction between tyre and road are experienced. With less preload in the springs it will transfer weight slightly slower and your shock then only needs to worry about the weight transfer of the car, not a preloaded spring also (assuming weight in car will transfer quicker than spring will unload, either way the force will be less) Also locking diff/plate type diff will make massive difference. Torsions are pretty much shit the way they unload when weight comes off them.

I've got a spare piper cross filter in my shed I'm not using anymore. Pm if you want.

Check your valve clearances. From memory they are .25 and .30mm (someone should correct me if I'm wrong). have had clearances issues before with blacktops. Also I would check head bolts as Dave mentioned. Although they have many valves there's nothing about blacktops that is rocket science (except for porting heads Fuck that shit) the compression has to be going somewhere. if above doesn't find anything try a leak down test with your compression tester fitting onto a compressor.

It has a lot to do with how much movement there is in the exhaust as well. If it isn't bolted in at least 3-4 locations then it will always split a gasket on heating/cooling/hitting the ground etc. I never use gaskets anymore for exhausts. Just sealant

Also with the extractors I had similar issues with mine. Best solution I found in the end was to just use some 300 deg silicon and not worry about a gasket. and when I say some I mean quite a lot... like 1/4 of a tube each time I took it apart with a nice thick bead around the outside. Starting with a fresh clean face and a bit of warmth in the extractors then layer the stuff on and jam together then run the car at idle for a few mins then leave overnight to cure.

With the oil cooler sandwich plate you'll find if you take off the filter spacer and thread it directly into the block it is long enough.

Would really prefer not to make another one jase!!

Yeah true they were just a line. Probably wouldn't look that bad. What about a small pin stripe above the split? I love pin stripes on 2 tone cars.. Yeah you'll need a minimum of a club sport license (apply online and do basic test about flag colours) and get your authority card done before cert as they need to record the authority card details on the cert info. Haha dw was just joking bout the cert plate was just amusing how similar my car was when I got my cert/cage done.

Thanks guys has been heaps of good suggestions I'll research stepping the rail back and if relocating the linkage will work. Yes could be interested. Do you have any pics of it or when it was installed?

Having long stems on the injectors is Viable. I looked at spacing the linkages but it needs to go up a good 25mm to clear a fuel rail and it would mean it would work on a funny angle and probably not get the full sweet on the throttle cam. I'll have a look and see if this can be rotated to suit/keep angle right

First issue is they don't make any manual windows Ae101s I know of. Also the motor and cable mechanism isn't actually that heavy maybe 1-2 kg. This car has to be a daily-able racecar which means wind down windows are a must. Nothing worse than going into a parking building and having to open the door or feed a ticket into the machine through a tiny slot in the window.. I know it's a bit of a compromise but ah well got to have power windows and a heater in my books!

Hey guys. I'm after a bit of problem solving help for my 2zz project. Putting quads via a cnc manifold eke_zetec made for me. I've got a bit of an issue with the throttle linkage in that it swings through exactly where the rail needs to be. Definately going to machine a rail so not limited on design options but not quite sure how to make it work. My thoughts were along the lines of splitting the fuel rail so it has a gap in the Centre. Can run a small swagelok hose or similar up and around the linkage to join them if needed. Other thing which would work is rotating the trumpets 180 deg so linkage on the bottom but this would involve remaking the manifold which I'm not keen on. May be possible to make new throttle housings to relocate linkage (could solve my angle issues too) but wold consider this as one of my last options.. Since I'm running outboard injection also,the fuel will come into the outboard rail first then through the inboard rail. One of the things I'm wanting to take into consideration is if I need to consider dampening the fluctuations in the rails and if pressure variations are likely as I want it to operate flawlessly When done. So just throw ideas around and see if we can solve my problem.

Managed to fix (mostly) the wiring issue that hampered us at daybreaker. Which reminds me I still need to machine an isolating post... This gives you an idea of how tight/close the extractors/start motor/alternator are. Have taken the wiring around inner guard with a new grommet and in behind the alternator in a hope of having less heat this way. Learnt a few interesting things about rating of automotive wire as well which no doubt explains the melt down.. Had a bit of an issue before xmas. car was performing some ceremonious drinking voodoo dance around the clothes line. Managed to spit the alternator/water pump belt and get awfully hot. It seems the pistons grew by 1mm and the valves grew by 1mm, evaporating our 2mm of piston-valve clearance.. bent all the exhaust valves but luckily no other damage so new valves have been installed and head gasket is on its way from Japan (not overnight unfortunately) Currently investigating how we can quicken up the steering. Don't want to install a quickner as then it will require a cert so we are thinking about making new gears for the steering box. has anyone had any experience with doing this before? We've got to imporve on the 4 turns lock-lock we currently have its easy to end up with an extra turn of lock in your hands at stages which is a bit too much to deal with on tight twisties! Keen to do some skids in this thing soon! Some old pics of this thing came up from when it was down south thanks to smokin'joe. Cool to preserve it's history/glad we got it fully white! Unsure on if I will bring this up to Leadfoot or not, needs the panel work repaired and its a long way to drag it to not compete in anything. Will see how in the next week or two.

I like it how it is tbh. I like the white better than the fake styling line across the quarter panels. Have you managed to keep this road legal? funnily enough I've got a cert plate that would suit this thing perfectly...

holy batman I've actually been getting some work done on this thing lately. Have made it my goal this year to finish this thing and get it on the road. Have made a list (very long one at this stage) with all I need to do and its a bit daunting but just need to pick away at it getting 1 or 2 jobs a week done.. Enough with yabbering here are some pics. Have decided to strip the car right back to bare metal to make sure I can tidy up all the untidy bits that I screwed up last time with the paint.. I've decided to go with sandblasting + 80grit sand paper should do the trip. This involves stripping engine/box and subframes out of the car so I can remove all the underseal and sealant in order to seam weld the chassis while its bear. Been cutting heaps out of the doors to try make them lighter but retain power windows. Got perhaps 10kg out of each door but they are still 15-20kg each once I put everything back in them. Hoping to have car all sandblasted and ready to go back together in the next month or so. Looking at CNC'ing new hubs for this as I always suspected the geometry was bung. How wrong I was! It actually isn't that bad with only +/- 1mm in most of the stroke length. Still worth doing the hubs though to correct the roll centre and reduce unsprung weight a bit as I'm building bilstein shocks as well so can slam it heaps and have it work (full compression will see 50mm of ground clearance). Made a jig to measure accurately. Plan is to make it standard replacement fitment so brake mounts and lower ball joints can be re-used, making it more universal for people wanting to buy. Will be made out of chromoly so the design can be approved by LVVTA certifiers which will make it even more valuable! Once I have the geometry I can make a full race item too, possibly out of Alloy for the likes of dads and Grants cars. This is the ride height I'll be aiming for - trying to decide on where exactly it will sit as I don't really want adjustment on my shocks, only by clevis. Still not sure about how that will go. Apprently 50mm travel in each direction is what I should be aiming for - a bit on the short side in the front but that won't be the end of the world. http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g437/touge_ae101/20150125_182625.jpg Hopefully more progress to come

Thanks for the link it's cool to know the history behind the car. What were you rallying at the time? It certainly goes well

Awesome did you build the car or were you involved with it? Yeah we bought it from the Camerons. Very interested in any pics/vids or details around its history. Have seen the fletcher name on a few event results but couldn't confirm if it was the same car. Was it blue/green/white at some stage by any chance?

I've got a spare set of new lift bolts if you want to grab them. WOrth giving it a go. Text me if you want them 0278861168

Yeah I'd shy away from 4 point harnesses as you always end up slipping down in the seat as you race and that added bonus of your nuts holding you in always gives extra security of you have a big one. I'm a real fan of racetech harnesses they are so good and still relatively cost effective. A good trick is to ring up racetech and see if they have any of last year's harnesses they can do at a reduced rate (as for rallying or national competition etc they need to be in the 5yr fia period) which doesn't matter for what you'll use it for. My theory is to never skimp on safety. You buy good stuff and it will last for a long time.

In my experience it's a pain in the arse job. Good weather helps with relatively low humidity. Really need a decent compressor and a good gun (read: well tried and settings well known by owner is best). Your average home diy compressor from super cheap etc isn't good enough. Try to find a 2 cylinder compressor with at least 50l tank and good airlines. It's really hard work on the compressor but also helps a lot if it can keep up so you don't have to stop or worry about the pressure - another variable you don't need when trying to get things right. I found a 3m plastic sheet for lining the shed that is static and attracts dust/paint particles floating around the air. Helps keep the dust down and make sure everything isn't covered in paint at the end.. like such In saying all this it is a prick of a job and all the work needs to go into the prep. Consider the actual work involved, your skills, resources available and what your expectations are before undertaking the job. I know for sure that my next car I'll just be dropping it off at the panel beaters and I'll just pay the money. Hope this doesn't scare you off its just my advice from the experiences I've had with painting.

I got a cheapie of trademe years ago which has always worked well for me was just a greddy rip off blue one. Haven't had any problems. Don't bother with the oil cooler thermo imo i never ran one and oil heated up just fine. All it takes is a bit of a thrash and the oil temps will come back up. Although mark (corolla_GT on here I think) put one in and it seemed to work ok and make a difference. Hawk brakepads are a good place to start but the smaller calipers on these chew pads really quick. The hawkes normally last well but they will chew rotors. After my experiences with the twinpot calipers I'd say don't even bother with them. They aren't that great and chew any pad really quickly and don't give you a lot of brake feel/modulation. Go straight for a wilwood setup (barry at MRP sells a kit that is about $1300 from memory) makes a massive difference and is worth doing if your planning on giving the brakes a hiding. What i found with the harder rear springs is you can get the rear of the car moving around a lot more which helps with turn in and lowers the amount of front wheel grip you need to use to turn the car in. I always had a bit too soft front end but for track I'd suggest 500lb fronts and 650lb rears with the 'big' 18mm swaybar. Only word of caution would be these will prob be top stiff to pass a cert for the road. They weren't too stiff or uncomfortable but I found my cert guys perception of too stiff quite different to reality on the road. Sometimes really stiff front springs work really well like on the ae82 we run 800lb front springs 500lb rears and a solid 25mm chromoly adjustable swaybar. Although this relies on brand new slicks on the front each meeting to get the benefit of having those spring rates. Also a better quality shock is needed to control the springs better at those rates too.

There are 2-3 Hondas in ss2000 that run rebuilt and cammed k20a engines in well setup chassis. The te ritos run standard wrecker f20c in similarly well set up chassis (the ae82 isn't anything special chassis wise just well sorted) and make 170+ kw atw which kick the arses of the k20s. Ant has won the open class twice so far.. They are far superior/the te ritos are awesome at drinking which makes them better at cars

This is of my interest. Awesome job of doing everything properly also it looks great. Lucky to find some enkei tarmac ES's in 4x100 also there aren't many of them around! My only advice around oil cooler is the bigger the better. We ran one of those small mocal coolers to start with on the ae82 and it didn't really do much to the cooling. Oil temps were still up over 150deg. We went to a 15 row greddy cooler and can now hold the temps below 120deg which makes the oil last a lot longer. Standard blacktops on the track can see at least 140-150deg oil temps which means it's essentially doing nothing at that temp! My only other questions are; - plans with the brakes? - please tell me no Super strut?? - once your through your cert seriously look into changing spring rates to something more suitable - plans with swaybar in rear? This will be a well set up car once your done I like that your keeping it road legal too!

The brakes are actually relatively good on these things. I've got new rotors and bendex ultimate pads all round and they work awesome.