Jump to content

azzurro

Members
  • Posts

    2,351
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by azzurro

  1. euron8 this 2140 could probalby just keep up with your wagon still lada engine based snoozin these top ones are some random '125 racing' images from google - funny how even teh interwebs is still a small world! non-update played with my new magic metal stick today - i set it up with those 2L'ish disposable cylinders + matching regulator (turned right down), and its ran of gas out already! probalby 4-5 hours total 'welding' time, incl set up, play around/test beads etc and bit of actual welding (with heaps of mucking around/grinding etc in between) - is that as per normal? it could have a leak as there was some condensation on the underside of the regulator? if it is normal, i think it would definitly be worth going to a bigger 'D' bottle from BOC, as those disposables are $60 each (i think the BOC is ~$30 a month? + gas + i would need a new regulator $$) - i hear the disposables are relativley low pressure compared to the refillables and so have much less gas in them for their size as well...
  2. 125T's at the Benson & Hedges series - bow down!
  3. apologies accepted, hope all you & yours is ok yep, wards would be sweet, but i like the 131R steelies (14inch vs 13inch and same width/offset) at the mo, and have a few other sets of rims too, so cant really justify it at the mo, but they do pop up every now and then monsoon sheilds - no - thats what front 1/4 windows are for! roofies - yes, but only when needed for actual holiday type stuff (surfboards/tent etc), not for carting scene 'tat' everyone ive talked to about this car or who has seen it has a similar story of them (or their dad/uncle/'friend') totally wiping the floor with other cars of the era, or utilising the roomy back seat area for sneaking bases lowerage is high on the list, but im thinking im gonna end up paying someone to do, as rear leafs need resetting anyway, and them front springs are a real bastard to get out let along getting them back in - also, my commie rear shocks for the front are too fat in diameter - i fitted them in the parts car (no springs) and though i was clever, but they wont fit thru the top hats or up though the wishbones - doh - wil have to take some measurements before grabbing random shocks next time! plan is to keep it looking standard/low, but with a few period go fast(er) bits/reliability upgrades under the hood for weekend family cruising/holiday missions. engine/brakes/drivetrain is refreshed, just need to do body work & zorst, then wof, then low, then go fast(er) like this:
  4. IMO the 'idiot' light switch/sender should be from another 12A/tanga - otherwise you are just getting a binary reading based on another engine (whatever you stole it from) low pressure tolerance - this light usually means 'pull over right now or ill die' but it might not depending on the car it came from and what your engine is doing better to run a/the guage (with a light in? or + light in dash to remind you to look at guage?) so you know whats going on. i love the clean look in your car, but oil pressure is a key indicator of engine health (you could replace that other funny guage you had/wanted?) btw those oil filter sandwich plate things usually have 4 threads - in/out for oil cooler, + guage and light senders, or you* could do a t-junction type thing for light and guage senders? * im sure this is within your capabilities!
  5. so parts car is no longer a potential candidate for another 125 project only a couple of bits to go and i should just about be able to fold it into a ball and roll it out of the back of the van to recycle whats left after i cut/drilled/yanked/chiselled/bent/kicked the guards off i realised i should have test fitted my various rims to check how low i could i go/how they looked on the car with no springs. have got all patch panels needed to complete little blue, and i have also got at least one of everything except engine. meanwhile have also been collecting bits and pieces for sticking on pre/post/during body work welder: next week me and my other new blue friend will start 'hot metal gunning' bits into little blue. im reaaaaly looking forward to making progress on this sounds: will run i-pod direct to this (under the seat) for running some box speakers in the under dash parcel tray/ 6's in the rear (or maybe the other way around). anyway, saves having a modern head unit in the dash or glove box, and potentially allows the guages to go in the dash inline with the clock and speedo/tacho seats: purchased on a whim while getting bits for the mrs corolla at pickapart - mmm blue veluer from a late 70s/early 80s corona gt coupe. very comfy, but rails dont quite line up... will worry about them at a later date, unless someone has some blue buckets + rails or similar style early honda seats in blue (holes are very close aparently) and wants to swap?... springs: ex rear 124 coupe - also have internal spring compressor from EURON8 (what a total GC lending strangers his shit - i <3 OS!) to try and get my other ones out. this saves me cutting the 125 ones in case i mess it up, but would have to go mad and cut about 4 1/2 coils for it not to be captive (this compressed energy is why its so f*&^kn hard to get them out). intake: 125T sidedraft manifold (note funky cutout for dizzy) and rams - just need the expensive bits to got in the middle (2x 40 Weber DHLA or 40 Dell'orto DCNF) Some actual progress on my actual project car should now actually proceed lil'blu is looking excited about being welded i think
  6. got this for patch panels and what nots - had previously scored most of the removable trims and etc for free, so i have kinda just got the rest of it. importantly it has metal where little blu now has no rust (in fact now has nothing at all) its a 1971 italian assembled model so it has a couple of improvements over my 69 nz (otahuhu) assembled CKD version including rear seatbelt mounts, ventilated front apron, as well as recently replaced front guards (a common rust problem area), as well as stuff ive previously raped such as tacho dash, under sill chrome strips etc etc it has an anti-tramp bar in the rear, so this will also be moved over, probably later on when the rear springs are reset. the tunnel has been modified most likley for a 5 speed, but motor and box are long gone. it also had konis all round, but those have been installed in to the PO's 125T replical race project, which hes just sold, and in retrospect should have put a bid on. anyway, want mine to sit like that one in the rear, in the top photo its sitting on the front bumpstops (no springs), so this is as low as they go - so will need to be at least a couple of inches higher all in all its a solid shell, probably more so than mine, but not registered and is cometically far worse, along with having its own other/different issues. anyway, super stoked as saves heaps of time folding up sheet steel, as well as having heaps of improved bits, and looking forward to turning the driveway into a wreckers yard, and getting into welding bits into little blue. this however requires the purchase of a welder, but this and any other car related toys, needs to wait till after the mrs's birthday on 13th, and valentines on the 14th...
  7. yarh plan is shock removed (easy), then spring compressor inside + jack under arm for som pre-compression, wind like billy-o = spring removal (hopefully) then new bushes and paint etc, lowered spring in - happy the external compressors dont have enough room to capture enuf spring to compress it enough and when tightend tend to walk around to one side, and enven if you could wind them, the shaft would lock one side or other of the spring in against the mount anyway, so def need an internal type. if EURON8's dont work will have to make a dubtape of fiat special tool A 74112 like testament
  8. maybe, if the price is right. rather have the 14x8s x4 tho, they look just right on there = perfect on mine too how did you get the front springs out of the lada? do you have an internal spring compressor thingee? can you giz? cbf taking the ball joints out and then how to reinstall the fucker even if it is shorter? tried 2x sets of different external spring compressors but still have lowerage fail and took aaaaages on teh spanner gaaaaah need FIAT special tool #4123555! but tis unobtainium
  9. oh fanx for the comments, not much progress lately, done all i can without a welder or a parts car while still keeping it mobile. working on getting both soon, but not sure that the mrs will be happy if there is a 5th car in the driveway, a shiny new man-toy in the garage and no presents for her birthday na, then the front quarter light windows wont work/look funny. i loved them on my vw's in the summer esp with no interior fan. the fan blows good in this, but they are notorious for never quite going 'cold' - the heater matrix valve doesnt close properly or something yep its 2107-tastic, but chrome-ier, cam-ier and more italian (but made with russian steel recycled out of captured nazi tanks and bourgeois intellectual's spectacle frames), oh and the new door rubbers and electric fan are from a lada too... surely you mean "no modern wheels", not, "no more wheels" ! an italian gentleman cannot have too many loafers, and of course the shoes should always match the suit
  10. questions, theories, suggestions and queries....
  11. o hai, long time reader, first time caller. thought id better put some detials of my current project etc. i already have a thread on this car here where you can follow the detail of my trails and tribulations to date: http://www.turbo124.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8003 but this forum is more local, active and wide ranging, so better introduce my self proper like. 2009 was a crappy year, upshot = tax refund. was looking for a datsun 1600, but came accross this beastie. Has same 1.6l engine capacity, twin headlights, rwd, & 4 box family 'sport sedan' underpinnings, and more or less same propensity for tinworm differences are many, but mainly rarity, italian style/quirks, extra cam, 4 wheel discs, solid axle w/ leaf sprung rear, and factory air horns runs the 1608cc version (80x80 = perfect square) of aurelio lampredi's famous FIAT twin cam, but is NZ assembled (CKD) early base model, so only 4 speed, big clock in the dash where tacho should be, and a solex twin throat carb. The Special had 5 speed and Weber carb, tach, air con, more chrome, nicer/black interior etc etc. Much of the engine & etc is common with the 124, and later 131, 132 and Argentas, so these bits incl performance mods are relatively easy to find - body parts are another story tho. Many of you will also know of the 125T, a NZ dealer developed version for the B&H race series. Yellow & black, Hi-comp pistons, hot cams, twin 40 sidedrafts, 5 speed, large capacity tank, lower/stiffer susp etc. They were supposed to sell 200 to homologate them, but only 70ish ever got made, apparrently FIAT found out and stopped it, but who knows. Plans are to - restore/upgrade (body, brakes, interior etc) - improve the engines performance - this base version produces 90HP (DIN) - the same capacity engine in the 124 sport (w/ twin sideys etc) came from the factory with 145HP - lower as per 125T - for the purpose of classic family 'goon (massive boot + roofies) and/or weekend cruiser Anyway, this was as purchased off t-me in April 2010. Had $500 worthof head work, new ball joints and some bodywork done and then has been shed stored since 1993. 135,000 miles. Still registered tho. getting it home from palmy: And have spent the last 9 months, on weekends etc getting it from this: to this: So i can start on the real work of chopping out the FIAT dust (those pesky russians!) and replacing it with shiny new stuff. The car is remarkably original and pretty solid, apart from the 20 year old body work 'repairs' which involved wire brushing the rusty bits, a bit of hammer work, brazing some metal on the underside and covering with copius amounts of filler. The car would be in far better condition if they had have just left it alone Work so far has included - sourcing 3 sets of rims (hey first things first!) - cleaning 40 years of grime off. - conversion to electric fan from belt driven (good for a few HP at least) - plugs/points/leads - cam belt/tensioner/timing/alt belt - new water pump - all oil and fluids - new brake pads, flex hoses, resovoirs, refurb calipers - new speedo/tacho, recover dash face from faux woodgrain to black vinyl, steering wheel - chasing down various missing trims and etc. Basically i wanted to get the car all together so i knew what it would be like (as it looks ok in teh photos aye), before concentrating on getting the rust out. Car now runs/stops and drives very nicely and Im looking forward very much to going further than the end of my road in it. Rust is all cut out now and i have been folding up repair panels, but have managed to get a parts car - a shell i had got some trims etc off previously, which is solid in a few of the critical areas that mine is fucked, so i will be using as much of that as i can. Will be purchasing a wee MIG welder and getting stuck in real soon... EDIT - discusst viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25706 EDIT2 - not thumbs, chrono order, moar photos
×
×
  • Create New...