azzurro

Ill take D all day long, thanks xo

These are the coolest. That looks like a Big Job TM, but also looks like you know what your doing! Please keep posting

Maybe, the deTomaso relationship is related to the earlier Vignale conection?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vignale According to wiki, Carrozzia Vignale was a coachbuilder in Turin (the T in FIAT) building several FIAT based specials (500 and 1100 models as suspected!) around that time before getting swept up by progressively bigger fish (de Tomaso) and ultimately Ford. Based on the practice at the time, suspect the engine and underparts would be in house Daihatsu, possibly from another model in production, but the body and or interior bits may be alternatively sourced, built or speccced by Vignale, so likely parts bin, maybe from Fiat (sure look like), or maybe a Daihatsu manufactured copy?

Cool! The name and interior/exterior design is obviously very italian. If this is more than imitation as flattery, and there was a design house involved or manufacture partnership, finding bits could be much easier. Not nesessarily cheaper, but probably more plentiful. Dash Switches look like fiat to me (whole car looks like an 850 or 1100 or 1200 coach build!), but steering wheel is more alfa in style

Im a Bulls Rat, from 10-18ish, lots of good times. Razza looks like its taken over the block!

Cool, im in for whatever

I have a cheap aliexpress gun style one. It shoots an optional red dot and has a colourful led screen that only funtion is to show the measured temp at approx where the dot is. Have used to tune sideys (exhaust runner temp) check radiadiators, wonder about double glazing, diagnose busted oven elements and similar. Reccomended tool, feels solid and seems surprisingly sensitive as you wave it around and gives a good sense of relative temps of things.

Before driving it, i needed to sort out the drivers windows - Id previously pulled the frame and scraped the rusty windlace out to measure up for new bits, and to close the window that was stuck open, but now the panes are basically just sitting in the channel and i dont like my chances of finding new ones. This pic from when i first got it shows how the glass just sits in a separate frame on top of the door, without it the door feels very light! These have two sliding panes like a Mk1 mini or LandRover, so thankfully was able to fairly easily enquire about sizes and order some from the very helpful chap at mini bitz, one metal backed strip for each base (not quite long enough - so ill have to use some old stuff or a bit of rubber stuff to fill the gap?) and then 1.5 mini sized lengths of the rubber stuff for each frame. I also got a bunch of 124/125/lada window scrapers to try and replace the outer seal of the lower frame trim where it sits on the top of the door Lower channel in bits with the outer side trim cut off the base rubber 124/125 window scrapers trimmed and jammed into place And reassembled showing how they will look sitting on the door - pretty happy with that, i think the scrapers were about $3US each Both doors mirror mounts had broken off screws stuck in there, and M5x1.0 are pretty small and easy to snap!. Managed to get them all out eventually. Found an Italian made but aftermarket replacement (for a 850 amigo van) for the passenger side, doesn't quite sit right, but certainly good enough, And this one that was on the passenger side when i got the van, can now go on the drivers side. Van looks more complete now I also - replaced the brake pressure switch (and made a jumper lead to covert the factory bullet terminals to spades) so the brake lights now work only on the pedal instead of being always on - failed to replace the oil pressure lamp switch as both of the spares i found have different threads - i need to order a special one with a M10x1.5 thread (both my common/cheap spares are M12x1.5 for twin cam) - tightened a few bolts and clamps - tidied out my 'bins of bits to go on the van' to discover there aren't too many bits left to go on! - painted the door frame ready for assembly and maybe reinstall tomorrow.

Not been up to much on this for a while, been busy with the diy and a new (old) job and stuff. Anyway, the 'rona finally caught up with me so ive had a week off work, spent the first half not doing much but feeling sorry for myself, but last couple days been feeling a lot better and so ive been pottering around with a few jobs on this. Have a pretty bad brain fog still and things have been taking longer than they should and getting done twice due to silly mistakes Its pretty actually close to being drivable, in that the engine runs, the brakes brake, all the lights work etc, but the starter motor being so cranky (lol), combined with the fuel setup makes it a liability. So wanting to sort those out first. The battery cable setup was a bit of a lash, so in the interests of finalizing things and eliminating poor electrical connections as a casue of my starter problems i finally installed a proper earth lead(s), battery to body; body to alternator mount; and alternator mount to starter bolt. Will probably add an engine (from a different bolt) to body lead as well. Much tidier now but the starter still sounds terrible, getting hot and carrying on, so time to whip it out for another look. I think i broke this bakelite nub off the solenoid on extraction, but certainly wont be helping going forward. Bench tested intermittent and noisy, just like on the engine. Mashed up teeth wont help with pinion engagement, or the flywheel long term Disassembly shows the real issue, the rotor been grinding on the field winding plates because the shaft bushes are flogged out ($8 parts). Looks like the pinion had also been grinding on the nose housing as the stopper was installed backwards so it was able to go too far forwards, and the aluminum housing was also a bit worn (need an extra washer) Must have been dead shorting itself out every revolution, amazing it worked at all, but not as a amazing as the *bad noises* that it made while it did it I have another later model starter, i think from a rwd twin cam, that is very similar in look and in much better condition. Interestingly it has a cast pinion head vs the earlier versions aluminium which makes it super heavy instead of just really quite heavy. Probably was the design solution to the hardened pinion wearing the softer alu nose housing over time. Bench test = good! Unfortunately the teeth count and spline count on the new ones pinion is wrong, original with 9 teeth and 3 spines on the left, 11 teeth with 6 splines on the right. Been looking online and seems 9 teeth/6 spine pinions exist so ill order up one of those along with a few other bits to rebuild this better starter as a spare, eventually. Internals are very similar (slightly cheapened/improved in equal measure) but different enough to not allow everything inside to swap around, and overall a much better candidate but needs must. So improving the original with bits from the spare meant i stole the bronze/oillite nose shaft bushing, the (uncracked) solenoid, the rear commutator brushes housing (that also includes the rear main shaft bush), and reused the old shaft/rotor, 9 tooth pinion and the housing, reinstalled the stopper correctly and added another washer to make up for the wear and... Spun up much nicer on the bench than before. Basically new bushes would have meant no problems. Also decided to tidy up the fuel scenario, i dont have a proper fuel tank yet, but a can on teh passenger seat with a hose from teh engine bay was not going to cut it even for a quick private track run through the gears. I got a couple of cheap cube pumps from trademe on the basis that i need a spare to make sure that the one i install never breaks. Original CAVIS fuel line reused to the rear, and poked the feed up though the filler tube to the relocated can which is now jammed between the wheel arch and the back door. Much better. I just run these on all my cars now, on a switch under the dash somewhere to prime the lines when its been sitting for a while (once the tiktiktik changes to toktoktok theres pressure and you can usually flick it off at that point as the mechanical pump can now do its job), saves on cranking the starter for ages, and the mechanical fuel pump seems happy sucking though them even when they are off. Starter now cranks much much better (the pinion still inst throwing out every time, probably the mashed up teeth). With the engine now starting and running off the key reliably and without needing constant fuel fiddling, i dialled in the ignition timing (it was slightly retarded) and adjusted the carb using teh highest vacuum method, and now it starts first crank and sounds crispy. Also my cheap gauges are cheap, and only the voltmeter works, but i got a hell of a fright when the electric fan kicked in off the relay and cycled a couple of times so thats great - shows its cooling the radiator sufficiently. My helper was also very helpful

I got a recore of my Fiat 1100T radiator, which is small dimensions but thick. Radiator Services in South Dunedin, who were recommended to me and would now reccomend to anyone. They ended up cutting down an old Patrol core which was 3 layers (as per oem) and soldering onto the original upper and lower brass tanks and added a bung for a fan switch Ended up being about $450 all in. Saved about $150 over using a new core (that they couldnt end up sourcing during covid). Probably a bit far from you but gives you an idea on a ballpark price to weigh up.

Follow the pisScience!

Like the BMW high km M10 turned into M12/m13 F1 motors, maybe these are the ones to go for

Installing the new gear change cable. In my discussions with Melbar some bits were able to be made to match but some of their standard bits were not exactly the same dimensions as the Fiat original so i asked that they be left oversized and i could smoothing things down as needed, and also accounting for possible wear in the original. This was the tips of both ends Old and bung on the left, new on the right, with the original adjustment nut installed. The tip on this end is the crimp and lives in the hollow end of the gear shift column, i filed that down a wee bit (basically the ridges from crimping) to fit and allow the cable to rotate smoothly with just the right amount of length (rounded the tip a bit more) so that the nut can tighten and the cable can still swivel. That then gets installed in the lock nut and the brass screw and crimp installed in the column change shaft, along with a dampening spring and etc and then that whole lot is attached to the steering column. The Melbar guy said hes never seen such over complicated nonsense. The other (gearbox) end is a bit simpler with a clevis end which they didn't have in a size that suited every dimension required, so went with the one that was right except for didnt fit the 6mm thick stamped pivot arm. I ended up filing the arm down which also lost a fair bit of slop from the slightly rounded top of the arm. I also cut down the boot a bit as it was restricting the throw (as Melbar barry said it would) Thats all back on the van and after a fair bit of adjusting it goes into all the gears again */*/*/*/*/* Next job is to sort out the cooling scenario. Original water pump had fixed fan on its nose, but the Cheap replacement water pump is from a 1500 car that runs an electric fan and a different pulley mounting pattern, so i need to put in an electric fan as well. A 12" pusher is the biggest that i could be sure will fit which isnt that big, but the OEM fan is 10" and doesnt have a shroud so i think it will be OK. Sussing out a layout and attachment Been watching too much Puddin's Fab Shop so had to bust out the 'dimple die' Much better strength and possibly airflow Backside, try to seal off the fan like a reverse shroud so most of teh fans push will go through the rad instead of across it Youmay recognise the alloy sheet from other projects like the sign of the year and the shroud on the 125P ute This is the engine side, with the shroud wrapped around, no screws needed. Had the Radiator shop install a bung for a standard FIAT rad fan temp switch so set up will be the same as the ute (this is the factory set up on it) and as ive retrofitted on the 125 sedan,wagon. Just need to wire it in in yet. Had an overflow knocking around for a while and it will work nicely to replace the factory 'full loss' system (as per pic above) And view from the tunnel - this also has a 'floor' i need to install that basically makes an air ram to the rad and the little carb air box thing as well NOMNOMNOM like a Basking Shark. Will be test driving sooooon and turn it around to make a start on some rust (sliding door to start with) Picked these up from @nzstato (i already have his folder, chur bro!) and ill start making some repair panels like a friken boss while im waiting for paper work etc

Turbo A series and a 4wd conversion

Just had the call from Dave to say it was all done, as well as a wombling conversation about what he did, and why, etc and oh, btw, its on the courier and where should he send the invoice? Total invoice incl Courier and GST is a shade under $450, which isn't too bad for a highly specialized, hand made, one off piece to match a worn out greasy sample, imo. I think he spent about 2 days on it on and off and he mentioned the invoice was probably about $50 light. Im not expecting any dramas with getting to it fit or whatever but was to to ring asap if there were any issues and they would try to sort it out. A+ would trade with Melbar again for all my custom cable requirements. I doubt that's competitive with an off the shelf/generic item, but for custom, you gots to pay the costo to be the capo

Tbh, It wasnt discussed, but as the ends will need to be more or less hand made, im assuming not cheap, but probably still a bargain! I think if the ends were 'standard' off the shelf items it would be much cheaper. They have a bit of a catalogue of ends on their site. Ill let you know tho.

Sent the gear shift cable off to http://www.melbarcables.co.nz/, and have had a couple of chats to Dave already about it along the lines of "so im going to have to use a #4 cable and crimps, so can the diameter of the outer cable be larger?", and "i have these clevis pin mounts, will that work?" so im happy its in good hands and all will eventually be well. Once its back that will mean the mechanicals are as good as they will probably ever be, so get on to applying to reuse the plates, take it down for a VIN check etc, and try jack up some joker to agree to look at/sign off the rust repairs. I also poked around on the internet for a 12" fan and ended up getting a Davies Craig (actually a Panasonic, but not complaining) from https://nzairfilter.co.nz/ and also an K&N filter as the factory one is missing, for all of the HPs. Very happy with their prices and service too. Factory filter housing is MIA but should be able to make some sort of can to give it cold air from the intake on the otherside. Good view of the aliex water temp sender pipe thing for the aliex gauge set I Would have preferred a larger puller set up, but there's just not enough clearance between the rad and the engine (water pump pulley bolts) on that side. 12" was the biggest i could be sure would fit on the front of the rad too, and glad i erred on the smaller side as its pretty tight! Check out that cold air intake for the carb. Ordered in a set of finest chinese gauges, to try triangulate whats going on, i think the oil pressure gauge is DOA, so will steal the one from the ute which doesnt have a sender hooked up yet... Volt meter reads 1v high according to my voltmeter, lol also did some upholstery, and 'fixed' the big hole in the drivers seat Getting there...

Sir, you are a renaissance man of many facets. Top stuff

Trap sprung! *sports drums

Slightly foolish chat regarding Sunbeam's absolutely mint Millecinquento Wow! You are broken my friend! Apparently there is (was?) one on the side of the road in Glenavy for sale that might be worth a gander depending on your plans for this. I shall live vicariously through you. For those that dont know, these 1500s (also come out with a 1300 and slightly different trim level) were pretty trick with 4 wheel disc brakes in 1961, and was the basis of the 125, which shares the floorpan and basic suspension design, but with a OHV pushrod engine and column change box.

Love this. More pics and datsuns too pls thx

Looking nice man! Re rear wheel centering in the arch, could it be an assembly error? Leaf springs in back to front? Have you put the driveshaft in yet? was it 'too long'? Could use it as a spacing check? Lowering changed pinion angle/more weight might centre? Angled shims? spring/diff locating thinger not lined up? Weird angle of the photo?

Awesome, thats 2 from 2 for Melbar. cheers! Will send them a fax or ring their landline Tuesday for cable sharns

Thanks mang, they were already at the top of my list, simply based on sensing the cable barry seeping out of their website: http://www.melbarcables.co.nz/