nzstato

As I mentioned I needed to sort out a filler bung for the rear axle. The old rover diffs had a fill plug on the top of the pinion housing while range rovers (which these diffs are out off) have plugs on the axle itself. For some reason the front diff I have here already has this so I am sorted.... I was pondering what to use, was thinking weld in a O2 sensor fitting then find a suitable bold, then I realise I'm probably not going to need all 3 complete 4.6 ratio diffs I have.... After a little clean up with the welder I have a perfect threaded fitting I can weld in with a suitable brass plug. Crank up the welder and go nuts... Tomorrow I should have these back in the chassis.

Now this is smart

Real? Havent found that issue yet, but I havent driven it that far (it was screaming its nuts off at 70k). Thinking about flagging a day off work tomorrow to finish up the rear axle, need to drill and weld in a new fill bung. Then need someone to give me a hand to lift them back onto the springs.

So, finally got a chance to put these diffs together. First, press all the new bearings on to the pinion and carrier. Then slot in the pinion with the shims for the top bearing, the rover diff is good that you use shims to adjust the crush, alot now days use a crush sleave. Then you can check the bearing preload, the spec for this is 8-12 inch pounds of torsion. The steel rod below is 4.5" from the centre of the pinion to where the scale pulls from, around 2lb is perfect. Sit the carrier into the housing with the adjusters, then use the crownwheel side adjusting nut to take up the back lash. Ive got just a shigh over 4thou of backlash here at the tightest spot, 4-7thou is perfect. Also double checked the mesh at this point with some bearing blue. Checked the total bearing preload, now up to 18-22 inch pounds. All happy you can now fit the pinion seal and the cotter pins.

Went up and borrowed my mates press, was able to swab out the pinion bearings without a)hurting myself b)damaging the press and/or the pinion c) damaging any of the very expensive cars around me - win. Will have photos up in the next day or two of me detailing assembly of the diff.

Like this: 6x Amal carbs on a holden grey with a rare Waggot twin cam head. Bike carbs on car engines isn't a new thing... http://www.flickr.com/photos/thecoach/6054855341/in/photostream/lightbox/

Those dimensions are looking promising, yep, both between the rails and between the x member bolts.

Another resonator further back would kill the rasp, thats what happened with my 4age. Any luck getting those dimensions for me?

Thats definately a possibility.... I'm up in Auckland in early August for work. This project is likely to be 6 months away anywho...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-605050379.htm ???

Considered that too, what bike carbs are the ones to pick?

This is the first time this question has been asked.... My intention is for it is to go into my '57 Austin A35 shell I have sitting on the lawn. Plus carbs are awesome so this will be carbs...

Tempting.... http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/carburation-induction/auction-606365174.htm

Thanks, the distance between struts (tophat to tophat) would also be helpful.

Ok, this might be out of left field. But what is the length of the KP lower control arm (pivot) to ball joint and what is the dimension between the chassis rails in the bay. What are the differences between the KP and AE86 set up and does it lend itself to modification?

Really??? You can import them for ~NZ$400 brand new.

Further question, what is a set of webbers with manifold worth? I'll guess at $400?

Mig wire works well also....

I'll agree, once a quaddie is correctly set up, they can get better fuel economy (and performance) than a holley. Usually the fact that they are a bit tired by now and more troublesome to tune means not many people go for them. Plenty of info on www.gmh-torana.com.au

Carbs will be more in line with the theme of the build, any electronic trickery will attempted to be hidden. Getting a head of myself now, need to start collecting some bits.

You mean this? http://garage4ag.wordpress.com/2012/02/25/head/ I was considering building a DIY flow bench to check some port work I have been doing on some 202 motors (not that it is difficult to make those things flow better), will cross that bridge if I get there. I assume it is possible to just run a megasquirt to control the ignition timing? I'd run it with a AFR sensor downstream, can the MS be programmed to pull a few degrees of timing out if it goes lean? I also assume it is relatively easy to procure an aftermarket crank pulley with trigger?

^ I was waiting for you to chime in.... I assume off the shelf performance parts for these things are easy to get? Do the 16V heads respond well to porting, or just require casting flashes to be tickled up? What sort of $$$ to you expect to pay for a 22 spline t50?

For various reasons will probably go electric fans. So what does all of this stuff go for? i.e. Redtop block/T50 I'm more for buying stuff in poorer condition (because then you know its NOT good, rather than 'came off running engine') and rebuilding it.

I'm afraid it will have to be 4age with T50 for simplicity sake (and because I am fond of them), no to the SR20. Other than the water outlet are there any 4age parts which are rwd only?

So some interesting pointers.... 7age? Unless I can find one already done (^^^) seems not to be worth the time/money/hassle, but can see why many have gone down that path. Good, I like the redtops.... Yes definately, stand alone ECU with multicoil would probably the easiest. Where do the options then lie, I hear T50 all the time, are some of the w series also able to bolt up? What options are cost effective?