nzstato

You want to live in GI Heights, we're all bogans out here...

My bad, I started the sillyness. The fact you have a late, 4spider 28 spline diff makes any options of a narrower diff difficult. Roll the bloody guards.

I'll stop talking out my arse then.

From GMH torana Another little secret is that while the VK 1/2 Borg Warner is the same width as VL, it has a different centre offset. This means that a VN short side axle will bolt straight in (may require minor trimming on the end, I've measured it but haven't actually built it yet). End result is a 28 spline (and disc brake) conversion using this housing only requires one axle to be shortened. You know you want to run 4.11:1

Is that a BW78? I have a feeling that the ones out of R31s are slightly narrower than commodore/falcon. Alot of the torana guys use them. Sources of ratios.... 2.77:1 some Falcons (possibly Fairlanes), I have heard that these may require a different housing 2.92:1 also Ford stuff 3.08:1 standard on VN-VS V6 and V8 3.23:1 VK 1/2 injected six 3.45:1 VL 3.7:1 R31 Skyline manual 3.89:1 R31 Skyline auto - dodgy according to most people, noisy and possibly failure prone 3.91:1 R31 Skyline auto supersedes above 4.11:1 R31 Pintara (Other vehicles use some of these ratios, these are just the easiest sources) I also think that Ford/Holden went to the stronger 4 spider 28 spline late in production. Be careful that VK and VL have different diff offsets (though the total width is the same)

I'll agree with all of the "back in my day" thinking. I recall only 5 years ago there were heaps of these and BFMR familiars around. Now you see bugger all - quite a few chopped up and a fair few more wrapped around powerpoles.

Tightened the steering box and took it for a wheel alignment this morning, steers really well know (though you still get a workout). Driving around with the top off in the middle of Dunedin winter like a bawes

Oh yea, those are still there. Showing their age though. Canvas is alright unless you are doing 70k+, then the wind tends to buffet the sides and gets a bit noisey. If I was to build up one I would opt for a full length cab. Been driving this around doing jobs today. Man I am happy I swapped these ratios over, it has made it so much more driveable.

It has most of them, its not the best top so going to go round to a local business and see it is worth repairing. Failing that I'll get one for $400 ex UK. Not sure what they toyotas are like but the diff housing in that area is pretty thin.... Brakes are ok (though woeful by modern terms), probably could be a touch better if I spent some time on them. The booster has been a hassle though - when the diesel conversion was done it was just a straight pipe from the alt pump to the booster. I've added an additional tank since I got it which is an improvement, could probably do with a new booster though.

Hmm good to know. This rear diff has had a brazing repair somewhere along the line too, just above the drain. A common area to damage. Considering buying some diff bash plates if I want to get serious with it.

And it is all back together.... So so happy with the diff change, it feels as if I have dropped everything down a gear (i.e. old 4th is now 3rd...), it flys along in 4th at not much rev. Speedo is now way off (not something I am going to have to bother about) but may have to take a look at the steering box at is very twitchy at speed. Also noticed when putting the rear diff in that someone has added some bracing somewhere along the line. Original owner was the NZ pest board so may have been done way back then... Considering pricing up what a new canvas roof will cost me....

Forget the cats eyes, a gentle crown in the road will make this drag. So, so awesome.

Every car build needs a bogan moment

Whole lot of the lads turned up for some bevvies last night. After a few I convinced some of the larger ones to lift the diffs in. Bit of swearing and cursing and I didnt even need to lift a finger.... Should be able to get it all bolted in and the hubs on over the weekend.

As I mentioned I needed to sort out a filler bung for the rear axle. The old rover diffs had a fill plug on the top of the pinion housing while range rovers (which these diffs are out off) have plugs on the axle itself. For some reason the front diff I have here already has this so I am sorted.... I was pondering what to use, was thinking weld in a O2 sensor fitting then find a suitable bold, then I realise I'm probably not going to need all 3 complete 4.6 ratio diffs I have.... After a little clean up with the welder I have a perfect threaded fitting I can weld in with a suitable brass plug. Crank up the welder and go nuts... Tomorrow I should have these back in the chassis.

Now this is smart

Real? Havent found that issue yet, but I havent driven it that far (it was screaming its nuts off at 70k). Thinking about flagging a day off work tomorrow to finish up the rear axle, need to drill and weld in a new fill bung. Then need someone to give me a hand to lift them back onto the springs.

So, finally got a chance to put these diffs together. First, press all the new bearings on to the pinion and carrier. Then slot in the pinion with the shims for the top bearing, the rover diff is good that you use shims to adjust the crush, alot now days use a crush sleave. Then you can check the bearing preload, the spec for this is 8-12 inch pounds of torsion. The steel rod below is 4.5" from the centre of the pinion to where the scale pulls from, around 2lb is perfect. Sit the carrier into the housing with the adjusters, then use the crownwheel side adjusting nut to take up the back lash. Ive got just a shigh over 4thou of backlash here at the tightest spot, 4-7thou is perfect. Also double checked the mesh at this point with some bearing blue. Checked the total bearing preload, now up to 18-22 inch pounds. All happy you can now fit the pinion seal and the cotter pins.

Went up and borrowed my mates press, was able to swab out the pinion bearings without a)hurting myself b)damaging the press and/or the pinion c) damaging any of the very expensive cars around me - win. Will have photos up in the next day or two of me detailing assembly of the diff.

Like this: 6x Amal carbs on a holden grey with a rare Waggot twin cam head. Bike carbs on car engines isn't a new thing... http://www.flickr.com/photos/thecoach/6054855341/in/photostream/lightbox/

Those dimensions are looking promising, yep, both between the rails and between the x member bolts.

Another resonator further back would kill the rasp, thats what happened with my 4age. Any luck getting those dimensions for me?

Thats definately a possibility.... I'm up in Auckland in early August for work. This project is likely to be 6 months away anywho...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-605050379.htm ???

Considered that too, what bike carbs are the ones to pick?