IvyMike

Has anyone come across respirators which claim to protect against isocyanates before, other than air fed systems? I thought they didn't exist until I stumbled across these on Trademe: https://www.colad.co/product/respirator-a2p3/. Bit skeptical, TDS doesn't really give me anymore confidence. I always thought carbon filters weren't up to the task...

Probably bang on the money. The fact they went to such lengths makes me a little uneasy about what may lurk beneath. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2Jo5Fh2ZiY I've been watching this guy for a while, have learnt quite a bit from him. He just released this video on using aerosol based paints at home. There's a couple vids on prep preceding it. Might be worth checking out if you're game enough. I think he said the stuff SCA provided him with is Concept NO MIX as opposed to Lyndar but I'd imagine they're similar. I've only used Lyndar primer and found them to be overly thin at the prescribed mixing ratio.

So this is the roof of my daily. I bought the car about four years ago and the clear began to peel, slowly deteriorating into this state. Anyone know what could cause this? I know the car has had some crash work done at some point. I'm just wondering what corners were cut in order for this to happen. I'm about to tear into it this weekend but thought I'd ask because I haven't seen paint do this otherwise.

Nah, bought it from a guy in Whangarei. 5k.. ouch. Is it running? I'll take you up on those doors. "Bronzit-beige" apparently. Not sold on it.

Discussion for this thread:

Succame to something other than good judgement and parted ways with more than I wanted to pay, a 1500km trip saw this tank arrive in my driveway. I had one of these years ago and never really got to live out my intentions due to relocating so I've got around to rekindling my plans in the form of this 525e. The exterior is pretty rough, it has some rust, and a fairly knackered steering box. Grand. The plan for this at present is to sort the body out, rust being on the top of the agenda. Unfortunately it's a bit worse than I expected. Both front doors might need to be replaced and the firewall needs some attention as well. Everything else is just cosmetic. Plans beyond that I've yet to decide. I really think the colour needs to change though as Beige is the colour of defeat.

Supposedly. There's still a few big players catering for it though. My local paint shop has a couple of racks dedicated to it. It's dirt cheap as well, $41 per litre. The datasheets claim you only require 2-3 coats but I get the impression that more is preferable.

Anyone here had much experience with nitrocellulose lacquer? I've heard the main drawback is durability, is it much worse than 1K?

Pretty pleased with how this came out for my first attempt. The lower half of the panel only had a cutting compound and polish applied. It seems wet sanding with 2000 grit sand paper is key with a 1K clear.

Damn... what is that paint code?

Isn't as durable either from what I gather. I've heard it's a matter of laying on 4 - 6 coats of clear and then buffing it into something respectable. I'm picking up 100ml of 1K base coat tomorrow just to give it a test. Might squirt a bit over the fence for good luck.

I'm doing a respray in a backyard in the suburbs, piece by piece. I have some 2K on hand but the more I read the less I'm inclined to take a gamble..

I think this was the issue. Brand new gun, first time I had used it. I did do a test before painting the panel to adjust the gun but it wasn't really apparent, I was saturating a piece of paper though. Came out nice the second time around. I have another question. Is $125 per litre (gst inc) a reasonable retail price for a Metalux 1K base coat in a solid red?

Had a crack at painting today for the first time and made a mess of it while trying to lay down some 2K primer filler. I prepared the panel with some 320 using a DA, used to wax and grease remover to clean it up and went over it with a tack rag. It's most pronounced where I initially began painting but lessened as I got into it, didn't disappear though. Not sure if this is caused by poor prep or just me being timid with the trigger and not allowing enough paint through. Anyone seen this kind of thing before?

This is just a thought for anyone looking to do something similar to this. The mks baseboard used on a lot of 3D printers uses an atmega2560. If you get yourself an arduino mega and one of the 3.5" touch screens off aliexpress, you should be able to refactor the marlin firmware or at least adopt the required driver for your own interests. Might save you some hassle.

Not tempted to turbo the m20?

If you haven't stumbled across this forum yet, it may be of some help.

The complete setup is rb20e running gear with with a rb30e block. We were working on it last night and found that the signal side of the injector loom would produce 12V intermittently (usually after the engine had been cranked) then drop off steadily after a given period of time, returning to 0v. Pretty bizarre considering these setups run a negative trigger. Even with the loom unplugged from the ecu, doing a continuity test across the 12V wire and the signal wire from the injector plug would show that they are connected somewhere. Running out of ideas here

A friend of mine has wired up his rb30e using a rb20e loom/computer. Everything goes aside from the injectors. We can't get them to trigger as something has crossed somewhere. For some reason each disconnected injector plug is reading 12v on either pin when the ecu is connected. With the injector loom disconnected from the ecu it still reads 12v on the left hand pins (the ones closest to the firewall). As far as I know these setups run a 12v common and a negative trigger. The injector ground is reading 0 ohms as well. Does anyone know why it could be doing this? How could all 6 negative triggers have 12v across them? Cheers

So I thought I'd update on how everything has turned out. Ended up doing the head gasket which wasn't so bad. I am fairly convinced the original problem was caused by poor air/fuel mixture and oil on the piston collecting debris stopping it from moving freely. Had a little bit of trouble with the carb after running some new seals/gaskets through it, turns out there is a little washer which is supposed to sit in between the emulsion tube and the jet to raise the height of the jet. With that in place it's now running reasonably well. Main problem I had is trying to tune the carb with the queer little castle nut on the underside of the carb. Thanks to a friend fabing something up for me, I've now got a little tool to take care of it. It's running a hell of alot better now.. I'm still not 100% sure about the state of the tune but it's nearly there. In the next few days I'll tune it with a Gunson Colortune plug (fricken great idea, you want one) and all will live happily ever after. That's the theory anyway. Ginormous blurry pic of tool: http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7854/dscf0333a.jpg ZP, burnside in the house yeyuh

In regard to KK's post, thats exactly what happened to my carb. Messed up the air fuel ratio something crazy. Hopefully should be all good once i get a new head gasket on there.

I'm only assuming it is some sort of air bypass. So the butterfly won't actually shut with the engine running? Have you actually tried moving that little lever outlined in the photo with no load on it from the spring?

I just had a look at my carb, could it possibly be the idle actuator? May have got dirt in it when you cleaned it? (Assuming you cleaned it)

I bought the kit from repco, part number "CD200". I work there so the price was good but if your an everyday punter it's quite expensive.. $94. You would be better off getting a kit from trademe. I'll let you know how I go with the tool.

Bad ass weber, cheers for the pics So yeah it really packed a sad last night, had to use the choke to get it home. So now the carb is off it and I've taken it to bits to to run a kit through it. I have a feeling the sliding piston is intermittently getting jammed and is causing me this grief. It pings it's nuts off while trying to accelerate.. Has anyone bothered making a tool to adjust the special adjustment bolt on the underside of the float bowl?