Celica RA45

lol

does your race tracks have real fast hard turns like at 220 kays ,if they have and are like philip island you will damage the crown wheel with no oil protection

dave has the diff housing got baffles inside it 1 ,if it has that .we weld exhaust tube onto the center part of the clip in baffles ,and with diff center worked out we cut the exhaust tubes to suit about 3mm away from the diff side,where the axles slide in ..that will stop the oil moving up and down the axle housing and keep it in the center to lubricate the crown wheel and pinion

looking good michael if your engine goes as good as mike janes it will be a weapon

you can just use the outers from eskederian for your mini nice spring i was using these in a gen 2 3sge motor

eskederian mini minor springs are the go

swings and roundabouts ,why dont you get a tuner that can do the whole lot ,like set up the injection right, set the vvti right, tune it right and then set up the 2 stage right, and be done with .i understand that you like to learn what you are doing etc but gee

does the link only use afr ,the motec only uses lambda for fuel as it has so many variables of engine combos, plus 2 lambda sensors and room for fuel flex sensor etc

dave why use afr why not just use lambda like 94 for down low 92 for 50% throttle and 88 lambda for 100%throttle

and the pulleys get loud with thin oil try some 10 w -60 super syn from penrite

also dave have you reset the cam pulley back to zero for a re plot .on the motec we disconnect the power to the solenoids and rev it to 3000 so that we dont get cam creep and rezero them back to 0,then you can start moving them after that

for 27 coils it should be 8v =5.3 9v=4.2 10v =3.4 11v =2.9 12v=2.5 13v =2.2 14v =2.0 15v =1.8

also dont bother with the std toyota plug ,buy some ngk in 7 which is a bit colder than the platium tip 1s and cheaper 2 ,i use to melt the platiums when i was reving to 8000 on the 98 fuel

what coils dave 36 or 39 or 27 then i can give you the dwell times

dave you would need a chassis dyno to set up knock the best ,to see what the motor is doing in real time

been using the m800 motec knock sensor ,we have changed to 7 kilohertz and take out any knock in any cyl range all the way through the rev range .i am now using 30 % ign timing from about 2400 rpm all the way through to 9000 rpm it makes more hp and torque ,i have also sacrificed top end hp for more down low . use to have 60 kws at 4500 now 108 kws,,, at 9200 use to be 204 kws now its 185kws .the car is so more responsive as of at the end of the day you are only up at 9200 for a short time , have also done knock on both 4into 1 and try ys and its better with the 4 into 1

have or has any one on this forum played around with real time knock sensing

rookie maybe 75 lbs on the 300 litres was over heating the fuel ,but you guys dont get hot days like we do where it could be 39 c by midday

dave try a ego ntk wide band sensor,from ngk mines lasted for 6 years so far ,before this i was using the bosch 4.2 which lasted 3 months ,also std wide bands should go just after the 2 merge into 1 for your lambda bung ,also with the heater wide band ,we start car and let the wide band warm up ,,,should be up to it about 3 mins after car starts

why do you guys run 044 bosch motor sport pumps ,that pushes 300 litres through your fuel rail per hr ,wouldnt it be better to use a 910 bosch motor sport pump that pushes 130 litres instead , on my race car i had to many problems with my fuel overheating from 75 lbs fuel pressure and pushing 300 litres per hr ,went back to the 130 litres per hr and has been fine ever since

ok std black top like they say ,with electric water pump with std ecu from a manual ,plus t 50 box with close ratio set .plus T series from ae86 ,this will make it about 830 kilos ,also bolt in a ae86 xmember and rack and steering column while you are at it that should liven it up with its brakes etc

also the dyno will help you to see where the hp dies off and the torque of the motor ,that being said everything i tried on std beams black top with 48 quads and 2stage and race pipes ,still dropped off at 7600 rpm

try starting it say from 50% at 3000 onwards up to redline and blend them together having the out boards at 95% and the inboards at 5%at wot then tune it properly on single stage 1st to see what it makes then do the 2 stage to gether .also add more ign timming in i picked up 15kws from 3500 rpm to my redline and also more torque right across ,then what i had with single stage we also boosted fuel pressure up to 75lbs right across the rev range and on idle

so what was it like running the 2 stage injection

also when i was doing a std beams with 2 stage, we used the std altezza injectors 365cc and on the out boards we used 550 cc with same ohms of 13.8 ,but we also pushed the fuel pressure up to 75lbs to help