Celica RA45

i made a box section at the back where the panhard goes to the body and put 2 bolts through this and in the box section made 4 new holes for the panhard to move down on the diff welded new section just under the std panhard rod pickup and has 4 bolt holes the same as the new other side so looking at the diff it is sitting level and 25mm lower .so 1 side is not higher than the other .or you will get the diff moving side ways through corners etc also how thick is your rear sway bar you could dissconnect 1 side and see if this helps when you change 1 side of the panhard pick up you need to make sure the body side is the same or it will go in a arc front bump steer did you check this when you lowered your car ,back bump stops difd you cut these down ,might be riding on bump stops

well my 2 litre motor is making 190 kws at back wheels ,its only na thou not turbo and a power range of say 3500 to 9000 rpm i have played around a lot and by increasing my front track over the back helps as well .from memory my front is 1660 and rear is 1600 also i use a adjustable rear panhard rod with rose joints and at the moment its 25mm lower than what it comes in std from .this also helps traction change rear roll center and also softens the rear whats your front bump steer like and how is your ackerman as well

what you could have done was what the group A guys did and just run the bottom 2 and 1 small 1 up top that use to help as welll so 3 rear lateral dont really like the 4 same arm movement they seem to allways rip out of most race cars i have seen .and they tend to flex a lot you would need to run a tube right across to give it side strength

trd lsd is 1.5 way 2 way is ok with no grunt try a ra40/ae86 sway bar to see if it fits around sump and rear bar no bigger than std about 13mm thick dia 18mm could be a problem also your whiteline rear bar could be making axle wind up, disconnect and then try also 2 way works under and off power 1.5 just works under power and is off like std lsd could also be a problem you might have change your driving to suit diff car might sledge with no front sway bar

when you set that up then try a 27mm front adjustable front bar with 4 holes and on the back just run the std ae86 rear sway bar thats all i run on front struts i have a spacer of 35mm for lower arms and strut to sit on and also running some cusco adjustable strut tops for 5and 1/2 caster and 5 degress neg camber by running mx 62 lower arms also tyres are re55s 205 x50x15 inch all round with AP 4spots front and rear 310mm x28mm rotors and 265x22mm on the back

im using 2 s engine mounts and std ra60 gearbox mount also you can still buy the trailing arm bushes from toyota from ra60 series celicas. my car sits 600mm from ground to center of the front arch on guard using stub axle as a center point and rear is 615 at center rear axle and center of rear arch in quarter panel front struts are ra40 and rear is a 7.5 live axle set up std trailing arms with std rubber but i also use a adjustable rear panhard rod .which can move up or down 25mm in new holes i have made up at the moment my panhard rod is lower by 25mm than the std set up .this will change rear roll center and also helps the rear to squat as well ps im using bilstein shockers front and rear

dave have you put the nolathane in the rear lateral bars yet ,if you have this will bind your rear end up /1 sounds like your rear springs or shockers could be to hard you wont the back end to squat when you accelerate ,but cold tyres will make it wind up as well reading this again wet roads with stiff springs and shocks will cause wind up my race car has only 200 lb rears and 300 fronts with a hard rebound and soft bump also what you can do is undo all of the trailing arm bolts on a drive on hoist and then when level retighten them all up ,see how that goes also a 2 peice tail shaft helps the pinion angle

my 48mm and 50mm are same as toyota 20 v bolt pattern and also same length a lot of guys were using these on there 7ag stroker ,which was out to 1900 cc

has any 1 played around with stepped dia pipes on race pipes at all

1st things 1st check no 1 is at tdc then check cam timming and see where disy is at no 1 as well

next week on cup day and it will be a sandown again im only using a 4.3 ratio with 205x50x15 re55s ,,and just use 3 gears 2nd 3rd and 4th and hopefully have solved the brake issues as well

1st 1 incar the other 2 front windscreen

here a few with my motor under full noise these have the shift light in the bottom middle set at 8800 rpm enjoy

even with bigger injectors im still using 50 % duty cycle at 100 % throttle but yes it helps with a narrow injector window

i still use 2 on mine but have them near no 1 cyl where the fuel goes in and block off the center hole with the threaded bolt from out of the front hole in fuel rail 1 for inboards and 1 for out boards

std motors are ok, its when you go up in comp ,cam duration and liftand how far the inlet length is same also with exhaust headers etc i use to get stand off from 7500 to 8800 at 1 stage ,by going bigger in the injectors and changing end of injection timming has helped a lot to fix this

in that pic of the v8 thats not stand off ,thats just misting its when it is coming out about 9inches above the bell mouth and the back of the air box is wet ,that is stand off ,most times is caused by exhaust reversion ,and even with vvti its hard to get rid of

those parts are for the acelerator pump as you push down it squirts fuel past the butterfly the long brass pump goes in the hole and the bubber o ring clips on top and the other screws in where the 4 little holes are so looking at your pic the 1st brass cover goes behind the screw with 4 little holes and pump jet goes in hole behind that

will try to get some up try thesealso you will see the shift light come on at 8800 that s where i shift gears

im usimg sards 1000 cc low ohm ratec single pintlewith a tight cone spray

out of 5 race motors that i have 3 are altezza and 1 is a red top and 1 grey top all heads are rwd .its only when they are set up at the factory for which car etc are they then machined differently

i have pics but dont know how to put these up

as most of you guys know i use 2 stage injection on a 3sge beams motor .its all bolt on stuff . the inlet then the quads the air box backing ,then the 2 stage and last the ram tubes ,these depend on what track that im racing at .the island very short .or winton very long curved ram tube s also i change pipes for both tracks the best part is the motec can hold 4 maps inside it self ,but i always have my lap top just in case etc on out boards ,im using a single pintle low ohm injector and they are 1000cc as i have a very narrow end of injection timming ,so i need the fuel in fast ,this changes from tune to tune thou its a sard rb26 1000 cc low ohm rate and on the inboards im using a 7mgte injector 440cc the overall distance that i have is about 230mm back from the std injectors in the head , they are set up very similar to to the TODA set up most of my race motors only use a few parts that are std the crank the bare head .block vvti controllers and solinoids and front timmimg assembly , everything else is changed for stronger or better and the rev range is changed to 9000 max hp red line can change as i reset it for different tracks etc the idea of 2 stage is 1 it will pick up more mid range power and torque and also more top end power as well also with vvti i can get this motor to idle like is was std and this is with 13.5 to 1 comp and 13mm lift cams as well

also another reason for 2 stage as if you run 50mm throttles ,by having the injectors 230mm further out throttle response is better ,also make the 50mm like a 45 mm black top throttle also reason i have been quiet is im building a new motor with 14.5 to 1 comp and 575thou lift cams with 1 tooth of vvti on both and on the 2 stage i ended up with 440cc in boards and 1000cc out boards running 95 % out boards and 5% inboards start up and idle from,cold is 900 to 1000 rpm

meant to ask you what happened to your air box design ,as by the time i finished mine ,it came up in 12 litres in volume and im using a super tourer cock in a sock with a 150 mm dia hose