Valiant

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-hole-mounting-type-max-250bar-working-pressure-hydraulic-gear-pump-HGP-1A-F8R-with1800rpm-rated/1691104933.html

You're right though Nickrock That's how these were done too. This radiator is the closest to fitting I could come up with, it's a bit too tall which is why it's recessed into the chassis. I can't get a driveshaft underneath it. I enquired about shortening the radiator but it's not a good idea according to the guys at the radiator shop.

No problems though. I spoke to the guys at the hydraulic shop today they thought they may be able to reverse the pump's action. I think the term was "field reversible" I'll take the pump in tomorrow.

Can't the radiator is in the way. No problem the pump I have was a bit big, they are under 60usd so it's not the end of the world.

The more I looked at this the less I liked it. I cut it back off and welded the old pieces back in. Then trimmed the top off. Made a couple of brackets up. Lined up the radiator with the hole in the bonnet, and away we went. I've remounted the alternator to the lower left, I think it's where a P/S or A/C pump might go on a car? Anyway it will give more room to mount a hydraulic pump up where the alternator was. The bottom hose has been altered to point into the front of the chassis, the radiator has had it's inlet and outlet changed to match the Datsun motor and I made a tensioner and dummied up a radiator hose. The alternator sits out a little but no problems. I've found a problem. The hydraulic pump I have, it's designed to rotate anticlockwise and I wanted to turn it in a clockwise direction. Aliexpress have pumps that look like they should do the trick, I'll order one this week.

Thanks. Yeah I think it's awesome too. No I won't be doing a full restoration on it. I have straightened the frame and given it a thorough clean, same with the components. There is a good 28x1 3/8 rim in the garage and an Eadie coaster brake to replace the missing rear wheel. They were Nickel plated and then painted. They weren't fully painted though this one looks like it has had some kind of 1920s flame job with the nickel plate showing through. I'd say it was so the bitches could see you had a shit hot bike?

Thanks. Ben's one is well on it's way to being rehabilitated it'll look awesome when it's done. The track Speedy is quite different to yours, although all three have nice pencil seat stays.

Shit long time no update. I still mess about with old bikes a quite a bit. here's a couple of photos of a bike that came to me under sad circumstances recently. It's a BSA Fittings, Speedy cycle. These were made in Christchurch by Speedy Cycles and are quite recognisable. I really like this bike, it's still in it's original finish even after 90 years. All Speedy cycles were Nickel plated and as far as I can tell heavily painted in red and green paint with what looks like white and black details. I have a feeling this style was sold like a GT bicycle rather than a racer. It's a bit battered, it has a bent frame, is very dirty, is missing it's correct rear wheel and hub, and the BSA chain adjusting cams are missing. I have everything to replace the missing parts and have started to strip the bike down to fix the frame and give it a good clean. Here's a couple of photos of a friends Track Speedy. BSA "Track" bridge. And the Speedy cycles chaps.

No mate I just head down for the day. I'll look out for you. What colour are you going to paint it?

Thanks KK. Can you sort the car out for me while you're at it?

Yes you're right, the old owner said it was a Hillman motor when I saw him recently. I would say it had been well melted down by now..

It probably died due to lack of use/updates!

Thanks. it wasn't overly hard looking back on it. In saying that If I did it again I'd do it a bit differently. I had to notch the subframe so the oil filter and pump would fit. Cut the front part of the trans tunnel and a bit of the fire wall. I've used stock manifolds swapped side for side to clear the steering box. the motor is offset to the left to clear the steering box. I don't know how you would get on with a tall deck (440 etc) they are an inch taller on both sides. I'm sure it could be done.

It's a pretty big machine that!

Thanks guys. I'm not %100 on the radiator notch. I think I'll cut it off again this weekend. Cheers Chris I might have to take up on that. Someone else on here should buy that Bristol, maybe some one with some land near Oxford?

Got plans to go already mate, you keen huh? Get that bike down and pump up the tyres!

I've spent a big weekend working on this. Work lent me a little gas set so I could notch my chassis to fit the motor further forward. One thing lead to another, I got a bit carried away with the torch and quite a lot got done. Rear mount for the gearbox. The sides of the chassis had been quite badly hacked about in the past. I also found out that these tended to crack their chassis around where they were notched from factory. I cut all the crap away, and welded some nice fresh steel in. Both sides are done but they look the same in a photo. Next up was to remount the motor. both sides look the same etc. Cut a couple of notches to fit the starter motor and bell housing And something I had been meaning to do for ages. Now the oil filter fits and is easy to change. Last of all some where to fit the radiator. I just about had to cut the front off the chassis which was a bit of a pity. The radiator is as wide as the outside edges of the chassis. It's too tall to sit on top of the chassis and fit the body work. Anyway after some cutting and a bit more welding it sits in there nicely. The side covers and grill will need a bit of a trim to fit.

Shit's getting out of hand!

That business with the axles is odd. I was worried about mine having had the holes welded up when I got my Anglia inspected the other week, I asked about them specifically. I was told it wasn't a problem That could change in the future.

Here it is back at the start again. Motor has been out, clutch is fitted, van box back together and fitted to the motor. It looks like it will sit the engine about 100mm further forward which is good and bad. Good point is the air intake should be a lot simpler to make. Bad point is I'll have to cut the front out of the chassis and trim the sides to clear the bell housing and starter motor. Big thanks to CUL8R/Chris for finding me a Datsun drive shaft. I've dismantled the UJs and put the input yoke on the rear flange. The rear piece is a home made flange welded to the splined part of the original yoke. I turned it down and made the flange but was having too much fun to take photos. Until next time.

welding the head and resurfacing it seems quite reasonable. The block though, how deep is the mark? It could possibly be machined away and reassembled with a copper spacer plate. Or not for massive compression and bad cam timing. Take it to an Engine Reconditioner, see what they think.

Hi Neil, that's some nice bikes you have there. I think the gold one is a Raleigh, maybe a NZ Fireball? It has Raleigh forks anyway. What size wheels does it have?

You can loosen those screws with a centre punch and a hammer if you have to. They have nothing to do with a wof so munt them if you have to.

Cliff Bond, Appco, or BnT.

What are the symptoms? There is a good chance it's not your Carb.