gibbon

is it time lads?

I'll also go one step even more contentious and say new 'wrong' oil is better than old 'right' oil but I think we're all living in fear of a lubricant foamer showing up in this thread

had to brag about it here because nobody at work cares and I dare not tell my wife

Bought a hoist, I'll do it myself (if I ever get around to installing it)

I'd do it in a heartbeat

Poor old triumph failed it's wof for underbody rust, I had a quick look and didn't see anything too terminal except around some seams. Is there any gc in northland who does the whole underbody sandblast/treat/epoxy shebang?

right, if im not going to oakura tomorrow I'll drop in

did it go ahead in the end? or all snotted by the weather

Then perhaps a guy I know might bring his gt6

if we say that hypothetically the warrant status of vehicles at this show isn't a matter of keen scrutiny, just saying, I mean as a moot point of argument for the sole purpose of fostering robust debate

who what when why?

So what happens when it's running and you add 12v momentarily to the field?

I think the wrong field coil would have an affect, something something less lines of flux being cut etc I assume there's some kind of external regulator? Normally there's a few adjustments to be made there

this one is only a couple of months old. And I'd never bring the boy he is the devil incarnate

I shan't be bringing mine if she's behaving like she is now, phwoar

damn, I was just thinking I hadn't seen any fellow northlanders post in a while I will have to clear with the wife... no promises lol

The high resistance through the armature would drop the output for sure. If it's 20x what the book says I'd start there

Watching one of the many custom car shows, guy makes some subwoofer boxes, covers them in polar fleece, puts resin on the polar fleece then sands it all back to shape... that's a new one to me?

When it comes to gillies, the Rule of Cool prevails IMHO

sorry mate never got back to you - i meant to take a video but life took over. these are the fault codes for a regular SOHC 4g63 starion. the 4g54 conquest uses the same codes so i assume they were standard for mitsis at the time. however the code i pull is totally different I'm using an analog meter as the regular digital multimeter can't react fast enough. I get a code that looks like this (repeating): i don't know what to make of the big sweep at the start. is it a "begin sequence" indicator? the manuals don't mention anything about it. given that the car runs, i doubt there's a problem with the "ignition pulse" which would suggest that it's code #1, O2 sensor (which I have swapped out with an AEM unit, the gauge is configured to duplicate the factory sender output but perhaps there's something in there that the ECU doesn't like). the second part there's a slight gap between the two so again a bit hard to tell if it's a code 5 or a code 2 and 3. measured individually none of these components appear to have anything wrong with them. i've since changed AFM to the double barreled type ,there's every chance that it's all sorted now but ive had some problems with the fuel rail which i've made worse every time i've touched them so the car currently isn't running,. oh but the brakes have seized on again in the meantime.....

Hey mate, yes I think it's a 4 pin plug, haven't been to the car recently but it rings a bell

My wiring diagram shows an inlet air temp sensor in the AFM and both the styles of airflow meter that I have seem to have it However I ALSO have some kind of sensor in the pipe before the throttle body but no idea if it's temp or pressure, the diagram makes no mention of it There is a wiring diagram that makes mention of two inlet air temp sensors, I'll have to dig it out though. It's not the one that's applicable to my engine. Below is inlet pipe sensor

I guess so? there's a vacuum line to the throttle body

Speeduino would be great because I could finally ditch the godawful airflow meter, but then there'd be the temptation to go MPI off the back of that, and that means off the road again for a decade

The twin tube one is E5T00272, the single ones are 171. If it's supposed to be the twin tube one then there's an obvious problem right there, so thanks for that... I'll swap it out the moment I find motivation