BlownCorona

because of freight costs i havnt ordered yet, but perhaps we could combine?

hey i can actually do that now with the new exhuast that lets you hear the whine. will deliver still doesnt sound like that wild ke70 i badly want to know what the difference is it sounds supercharged now atleast instead of just broken exhuast 1gge

Took this temporarily off the road to chase down an oil leak that was getting real bad. I presumed it was the front main seal, but after having the whole front of the motor off and then the sump, which had fuck all of the wrong sealant on it, concluded that this was likley the issue. Did all the usual servicing with the front taken apart. While I was in there I discovered the cambelt crank pulley was fucked, it was worn on keyway and the key itself was worn, as it turned out approximately 18 degrees of timing innacuracy. I tried to buy a new pully only for it to come back nla, and nothing second hand turned up in the short amount of time I wanted to wait, so I took to repairing what I had. Machined off the rear belt guide flipped the pully so it drove on the fresh side and made a new belt guide. Also ground up a new key that drives on the full width of the pulley. Also discovered the *slightly* harder to swap rear two plugs just hadn't been swapped. 6 new iridium plugs went in to replace this garbage. I also got sick of the cobbled together exhuast that sounded shit so ordered up some new parts, coupled with a hand made in Japan titanium rear muffler from Fabril Laboratory (little alfa romeo and general Ti manufacturing shop) sounds great now and quiet at cruise. Tucked up nice and high and havnt heard a scrape yet. Got some stickers And today, wofd, regd, cleaned and polished ready for daily duties once again

i put together a water truck for work and we use it so much. Its also real fun in fire truck mode. 1000L out in a few minutes

im just as screwed as you are. my corona is living on a car trailer at my parents house and my entire life/workshop is packing into a shipping container while i try to buy a new house/bigger garage. its painful

twin turbo 2gr is going to be wild. race ya to finish twin turbo 80 series builds! couple thoughts, a j160 will almost certainly not take the torque of your planned engine, and neither will nearly any mx5 diff option. a friend is putting a vq35de into his mx5 and will be producing subframe adapters to fit an r200 diff. given youre a fabricator i imagine you can simply do the same. check out flying miatas ford 8.8 diff conversion and copy that for an available diff. tremec tr6060 would be my pick. otherwise a cd009 or r154 would probably be suitable options.

eh, i get a flashing low fuel light in my car, but the engine doesn't change its operation in any way.

how the fuck have i never heard this, this should be etched into their fucking cases!

yeah had a poke around their site and couldnt see. thats excellent news! thanks very much, i think ill buy two and have both the digital dash pack and oem speedo function in the corona too.

do you know what sort of 'flavor' pulse comes out of it? it might be an easy way to reinstate cruise control on the crown. my auto gearbox had a hall sensor which read 4 pulses per revolution on the output shaft. but the manual trans has no such provisions.

i just sourced some parts from him this weekend. very friendly and cut me a solid deal without me even asking him to sharpen his already fair list prices. a real good bastard for sure.

also i really thinks s13s are pretty nearly if not definitely oldschool these days. what is it? an '89 or something? my crown and my chevron are both '88 and pretty oldschool. s13s were well ahead of the curve in terms of styling, they must have looks like spaceships in their day, epic resurrection

ps. on this forum we separate discussion and build threads. please find the discussion thread here. however since this is relevant to the vehicle history it would also be fitting to have in here.

yes, i purchased it from the wood family in upper hut, friends of a friend. very likely the same car in that case. they gave me a big folder with info and some relevant book scans in it, i may find some more previous owner details in there

those are probably what we got, except we ordered from rock auto and they cost about $30 edit - they were volvo 240

FYI there are such things as engine mounts with offset bolts that would make your current setup bolt in. when we put the sr20det in dads s11, we had i think 35mm difference between mount and crossmember, had a google and came up with a volvo mount that had the same offset and everything bolted in sweet with off the shelf parts.

please report back on how that fuel pump goes. ive got a flueflo elec pump on my twin 40s now, but would happily spend 100 bucks on something i know is suited.

Super rough mockup with some not very pretty parts, but I'm extremely excited for how this is shaping up!

its been a while. given that i bought the supercharged crown, i was starting to think that perhaps id like to have a turbo car in the garage, so i listed the supercharger kit for sale and it turns out matteybean on here bought it and has fitted it to hit RT104 and done a real nice job of finishing it off. real glad i get to see it finished off. now turbo 18rgs are pretty common and never wanting to do the smart or easy thing decided i really like the look of aftermarket twin high mount turbo rb26 engines. so decided this is the style id go for. twin IHI VF32s the secondary turbo from the 2000cc twin turbo legacy, in theory should be suitable. and are dirt cheap and look pretty nice to boot. spent a few days piecing together a manifold which took a fair bit of thinking to fit everything in, i still need to add the wastage but will need to test fit into the engine bay to see where i can put it. (the front turbo does sit straight but is not bolted down tight)

ive been going to that wof shop for years, and had nothing but excellent service. as confirmed by felix it sounds like the brakes are probably just shit old british brakes and move in and out of balance, they also just put in a brand new brake roller machine and given thats a pass/fail percentage of inballance and not a personal opinion thing i know who id side with. and as for the fuel leak, its my personal experience several times that you dont have a fluid leak onto an exhaust manifold without knowing about it within about 10 minutes after it occurring, so id pack it in with blaming a wof shop and accept that its a 60s British car and not a 2015 corolla. things are gonna spring leaks and the shitty drum brakes are gonna be shitty. ill keep taking all my cars, my wife will keep going there and my brother and parents will still keep going there. its the only wof shop ive come across that actually keep up with the rules and will have a conversation if you contest something. hell they even rang nzta to confirm some stuff about the seat belts in the chevron, which as it turned out, when i personally phoned evan at chevron, i was wrong about and they were right. when i was in there getting the crown its wof they were telling me about the current crack down on lifted SUVs and how most of them are fucking aweful. so it sounds like that other guys surf was probably caught up in that, plus id bet a large amount of money that the stickers on the windows were exceeding the 100mm rule, im all for stickers, but if they break the rules then you have to expect at some point itll get pinged.

https://hotwheels.mattel.com/explore/en/legends-tour# if this monster doesnt tick all those boxes then i dont know what does!

you should also enter this in the hotwheels comp. id buy a 1/64th model

cheers!

In the final stages of getting dad's ta63 notch finished. The driveshaft we have for it is slightly too short, can I turn up a spacer (with locating spigots). Or will this fail a wof? I need to go eyeball it and see if the spacer is going to be too thick or not, but thought I'd better check on the legality first

correct, the torsen will take the power of a beams as they seem to hold up behind turbo mx5s. they are quite hard to get and fairly expensive, though if your considering front and rear subframe swaps, the cost will pale in comparison. don't quote me on it, but im pretty sure FC rx7 diffs fit and there are a few different strength options in that field too. as for my sloooooow burning v8 mx5 project, i intend to run a skyline r200 in the mx5 subframe, copying the engineering flying miata have done to fit a ford explorer diff in, as the two diffs mount the same way. something to look into as you'd be able to knock up the sub sub frame no sweat. and then someone in the lotus 7 circles used an altezza torsen diff with mx5 axles and implied that it all just fit together and helped with narrowing.