BlownCorona

You could also consider running water wetter to help make the most of what you've got. We used that stuff on the jetpacks as heat was a problem and so was weight, so big engines and small cooling systems ect. Seemed to work well.

Back in the game! a literal bootload of 18rg parts just turned up at work. purchased from a mates mates father up north. highlights include; a mint block, that has been professionally honedand surfaced. nearly all rebuild parts. a couple of really clean heads and a partly complete dismantled but complete one. the early "230" head has port work. but ill most likley use the very clean and resurfaced "270" efi head as they had bigger ports anyway and are much stronger with a lower compression, they just had wimpy cams, so the 230 cams may find there way in there too. a slightly lighted flywheel, which will probably be ideal for a street car. once the crown is shipped off to panel in the next week or so, ill hook into building this engine. i need to do alot of measuring and thinking about what combo of parts to run though.

shit i thought i put a link https://motobrain.net/details i dont think its CAN, but you could probably run a can signal up to an arduino thinger and then have it spit out the inputs for the PDM right next to it? i dont know much about arduinos but have read a bit of the stuff youve been doing. will have a look at this stuff you mentioned. im going to be throwing the MoTeC m400 i have into the corona at some point instead of it literally collecting dust, so CAN just became a hole lot more interesting too

i mean, the most we can say is that its still kicking out a voltage. who knows if its the right voltage. probably less of a concern for a little N/A engine, but fuck taking that chance on something where AFRs actually matter. in other news has anyone come across a solid state PDM thats back yard budget friendly? id love to use one but the cheapest ive found is 300 usd plus freight. (thats probably really cheap compared to motorsport spec $3000) is it something you diy?

How it should have always been. The pedal set fits great. I'll need to cut the hole in the firewall for the master cylinder but that's the extent of it it. Seeing three pedals makes me very excited for the future of this car.

Flywheel and heavy duty clutch acquired. Have the flywheel a quick sand blast and will machine the surface before fitment. Have ordered, Input bearing Flywheel bolts Pressure plate bolts Pressure plate dowels Rear main seal Still needed, Slave cylinder Maybe a master / I have one from an old corona which is maybe the same. The hosing that goes between it.

in my corona i drilled a hole in the side of the tank near the base and fitted an AN bulkhead fitting with a 45 degree fitting on the inside to get the pickup as low as possible. and then hooked that up to a filter > external fuel pump > fuel rail > regulator then used the original fuel line as the return. the only problem i have is that the fuel pump is higher than the level of the tank sometimes, so has been knowed to unprime itself. but i think this is more to do with the second hand 80s celica supra pump i used, ill upgrade to something actually new and it should have a little better suction. but fuel pumps dont like sucking up fuel very much. i may also install a check valve so it helps maintain its prime. super easy and a kind of cheap and shitty way to do it. i was in a hurry to get the efi engine in for my wedding, but has posed no problems to far so ill probably keep it that way.

With the engine blowing on the corona bringing the plan to certify that and daily it while i build the crown to a grinding halt. i came to terms with the fact that i was probably going to have to buy a fourth car to daily while i build the crown asap because i was worried there may be rust hiding that would deteriorate the longer i waited. so with a new cheap cheap boring daily acquired. this weekend i set to stripping the crown down, initially for rust and body work, and then for paint! Big pile of parts removed and stashed untill the mythical day of reassembly? Surprisingly i found very minimal rust. found some where i didnt think there was any (under the rear windscreen) and found next to none where i thought was quite bad (around the tops of the screens) ive yet to remove the front and rear glass so this could change but it looks solid. some minor rust at the base of a couple of doors. but only on the inner skins and the lip that the boot seat presses on is quite bad. none of this will really be my problem anyway, ill just have to pay the money. If your the cunt who bogged over the rust under the rear window. im going to punch you in the dick. some people just shouldn't be allowed out of their cage.

Yes please to a nice metallic bronze or dark blue one for the crown! Would tie in the planned body colour or interior colour very nicely.

hmmm ive got a small section of that aeroflow 400 on the corona that perished in a mater of months after install (wasn't new when i got it, but still) i think ill steer clear of it forever.

tempting best get it running i think..

nah that throttle has to be where it is. its part of a huge manifold. which probably works really well. plus ive always liked cowl hoods. i think itll suit the mx5 well. heat dissipation will be an issue too, so thats a big plus.

with the exhaust manifolds removed the engine went in the hole effortlessly. it will sit back maybe another inch, but my lifting attachment fouls on the edge of the engine bay so will need to sort that. new custom log manifolds dont look to pose much of a hassle. they will probably need to be installed once the engine is in the bay though, but we'll see how much clearance i can make, haven't used that sledge hammer yet... pretty pleased with how it fits in there. the bonnet wont be shutting any time soon though, but a muscle car style hood should sus it and look pretty stout too. excuse all the truck spec dipsticks and wires all over the show. these will be fastened and trimed to suit. it sure is a big engine! looks pretty snug down in the engine bay properly. now comes the slightly harder job of fitting the engine mount kit and working out a suitable gearbox mount.

yup thats my plan now. unbolted the manis and they cant be flipped, so ill carry on with the install and build manifolds later on to suit once i know where everything goes. not sure where id put the turbos??

more progress during smoko and lunch today. building a race car at work rules. cut 100mm out of the top of the firewall and made two cuts down each side of the tunnel roof, pushing the tunnel up. once i know the engine fits the holes will be patched up. should make installs a breeze. came across the first real issue too. the exhaust manifold foul on the frame rails. i can notch these out enough to clear i think. however the drivers side manifold dumps right onto the steering shaft. flipping the manifold looks to be an option, and im contemplating the option of bringing the drives side exhaust around or under the engine and merging with the passengers exhaust, or crossing back under the trans. ill clearance the frame rails and see where that leaves me i think. not quite in, but its getting lower in the engine bay! should go down and back about 3" both ways any ideas, shoot them my way! gotta say, i thought id be swinging a sledge hammer pretty early on to make this fit, so im pretty stoked on how its fitting, and can see why LS swaps are so popular in the states.

An exciting day today! first test fit of the huge engine and trans into a mostly stock body mx5. first i started by cutting the 'ears' off the frame and firewall. forgot to grab a pic but its these parts. theyll need plates welded in to re-add the strength lost. this squares up the bay and allows the engine to sit close to the firewall then in goes the engine! its SO close to fitting in unmodified. infact if i was to unbolt the subframe, id be able to fit the sump bowl past the subframe and the engine could sit down properly. however, i dont really want to have to unbolt the subframe everytime i need to pull the engine. which hopefully wont be often, except for during the build, but even thats enough for me. if i want to slide the whole lot in, ill need to cut maybe 60-100mm out of the top of the tunnel. a pretty easy job for the massive benefit of easy install! trans hits here sump just doesnt quite get over the subframe its possible the unmodified hood may even close over it all! most of the bulk ontop is the wiring loom ect what a monster

Yesterday I made some engine lifting points as weirdly this engine doesn't have any. I assume they are under the manifold, but I have no interest in pulling the manifold off. These will also alow the use of an engine leveler as I hope to fit the engine and trans as one unit

Romoved the front bumper and made the first grinder cut at lunch today. Wiped the radiator core support off to give a little more room to sling the engine in, this will get flanged for refitment later, and the hood will be pinned.

They started off looking like this!

Fitted up the nearly brand new tail light, and had a few hours on polished the existing good one, 800/1500/2000 grit sand paper and then some cream polish, came up pretty close but there's still some in it I think. Will pick up some actual plastic polish. But if it gets no better than this I'm still stoked. Miles better from where it started. The tail lights are one of my favourite parts of the car so it's great to have them sorted and looking mint

Another parcel arrived from japan this morning with more or less everything i need to tidy the car up. new tail light in the hard to find configuration and tint. super stoked on this one, it looks brand new and ill have to polish up my "good" one to match now. my old RH light had a big crack in it and water had gotten inside and made it cloudy and corroded, would have seriously let the car down post paint. corner light, again, looks almost new. existing one was cracked and suffered the same as above. has black trim where as my current one (and grill) has chrome. ill either paint the whole set black, or maybe spray chrome for the rim. either will look good. rear mud flaps. im missing the RH one and it was cheaper to buy a pair. the rear looks quite incomplete without them RH rear window regulator, current one is fucked and this will keep my daughter happy in the summer months! heater control panel, featuring working off button! a luxury my car has sorely been missing. and finally, perhaps the best score for nearly no money, a clutch pedal and manual spec brake pedal. naturally there are some other things around the interior of the car that are cracked, but i think this is the extent ill go to for importing parts. its a daily and the things remaining that are damaged can be glued or ignored, possibly found local if i get lucky, but they dont impact on the whole experience! cant wait for paint and manual, itll be like a totally different car.

Got the final piece of wiring loom that I'll need freed up from the smashed truck. Compared to getting this out in tact, fitting the engine should be a dream! Stoked

on the suggestion of runamuck, i posted in this forum looking for wiring info, and user on there was very kind and gave me a bunch of info which should hopfully sort me out, i was gonna dump all the info in here but sort of cant be bothers, plus give those guys the traffic eh? https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/4-7l-corsair-wiring-diagrams.440431/ also had my weld in 'project car' engine mounts turn up from speedway motors in america, grunty looking things! they are actually for the new gen Hemi, but for the price, i couldnt have bought the materials and if they don't fit the block then worst case is a redrill or a new engine plate. easy as! hope to have the engine "fitted" soon.

Took this on my works mid winter xmas do car rally. got this pretty awesome photo! makes the car look way better than it is, but gets me super excited for painting it!

the dude helping me seems to have a direct line to the dodge system where ever he works. i asume a dodge dealership, or an auto sparky. ill dump all the info he gives me in my build thread once ive got it all and hopefully any other people can find that info that simply wasn't freely available. although he called my project ambitious... i told him thats how we like it in NZ