Adoom

The liner comment confused me for a bit. It doesn't have a liner, it's a CA18 block. The "pitting" around the "liner" is old gasket residue. I probably could have done a better job of cleaning it up before taking the photo. As far as I can tell, there is no pitting apart from how the hole is bigger. I was planning on getting the deck resurfaced.

I just noticed this... Only these two are corroded. All the others are fine. There is normally 8mm between the hole and the bore. With this corrosion it's only 6mm. Is it still okay to use. Seedy Al, Cam?

True, I have one of those too. But it's still shaped like a long block and I cbf getting it out from under the bench and stripping it. It's fucked though, the late engine is my upgrade. I forgot about the crank girdle. This early CA18DET did not have a girdle. The late engine did have a girdle. They both have oil squirters. The CA18ET does not have squirters. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to tell if an early engine will have a girdle. Probably not, but some early(DET) engines apparently do have them. Best way to tell is remove the sump.

Does the engine number have any meaning, or is it just like a unique identifier?

I had them both to hand and wondered if there was any differences between the blocks, I thought I'd share. The early one is one of the first CA18DET, with the cross over manifold and no intercooler, from a bluebird afaik. It has an 8 port manifold, at low revs, every 2nd intake port is blocked, so it only has one functioning inlet valve. It seems in better condition than the later one, but I think it sat for a long time with water in the block that evaporated and left crusty varnish stuff behind. The water pump would not turn and the water galleries were full of shit. The late one is from a S13 silvia. It has the 4 port head. It has bigger inlet valves. It was cheap because it had a knock. I found that it had spun one of the big end bearings. Probably because it had NEVER HAD AN OIL CHANGE EVER!!!!!!!! The oil was like tar. Everything was caked in it. Half the lifters were seized. Poor engine. One rod and crank journal were toast, but I have spares. But enough waffling, here are some photos. The casting around the crank bearings seems to be thicker. Black = Late Brown = early Casting for that oil drain has sharper corners but not so rough. The late one doesn't have the ball valve thing in the filter housing. The casting around the crank bearing seemed thicker in the late one. Again, it looks a bit thicker to me. The later one has two extra bolt holes on either side of the engine mount. The black paint on the early one seems to have held up a lot better than the later one.... Late Early The late one has a water jacket hole missing between 2 and 3.

That's the eventual plan Just as soon as I have some. I finally got my head all together because gf was overseas for work for 2 weeks. I only had to install the valve springs 3 times! The initial install. The, FUCK, how did I forget the valve stem seals, reinstall. And the, WTF do you mean the springs only go one way around reinstall. I should have read the manual. HAHA Now I'm pretty good at installing valve spring collets though.

Enough that I don't want it to fail prematurely. I thought as much.

Due to the passing of time and a lack of labeling... I have a CA18DET block I intend to use. The only machining I think it needs is to surface the deck and hone the bores. But I have two sets of main caps.... one set is from an earlier block that I am not using. I am 100% sure which caps belong in which set, and I know what order they go in since their numbers are cast in. Buuuuut, I don't know which set of mains caps belong to the block I am using :/ Is there a way to work this out by measuring? Both sets are standard size. Or will I be in for a line bore and over size bearings?

170kw. I am running rose joints with parallel arms and a panhard rod. I did it because I had problems with axle tramp and wheel alignment with the factory arms/bushes. I also tried poly bushes at both ends(I thought the rose joints were shagged, but it was diff noise), then it was pointed out that they were so stiff, the diff could only go up and down but not twist, so I went back to rose joints. I like the direct feel. No problems with mounts cracking. Noisy as in a stripped car though. I get a lot of noise transmission from the LSD. But racecar, so who cares.

<I'm no expert.> But I would guess that the size of the tube and nut should suit the springs. Not the strut. Pretty sure the springs only come in one, or possibly two standard sizes. If you get/find smaller diameter tube to fit your struts, the nut may be too small a diameter and not support the spring. Unless you plan on machining a ring to fit over your nut and support the spring. I'd probably get threaded tube to suit the springs, then machine a stepped sleeve/collar to make the tube a good fit to the strut. </I'm no expert>

http://www.permanentpaintedcoatings.co.nz/por15/wellington.aspx I used to work at Road and Track years ago, pretty sure the retail price is set by ppc, so all the official distributors would have the same price.

I'll be getting it from Shred in Petone. They buy it by the drum. But because I'd use SFA I would only get 5 litres at a time.

Thanks, So, do I need to cert the extra fuel system before going for a WOF? I'm thinking yes.... Or should I just try get a WOF and see what they say?

I don't think it's really a power adder, since it's perfectly fine to use E85 as my primary fuel, but it's damn expensive. Let's see what Clint says.

While playing around with Water injection on the dyno, we discovered that injecting straight E85 through the W/I system at high boost allowed us to add timing and pull back 'normal' fuel giving a ~10% power increase on the same boost while using hardly any expensive E85. Due to the original W/I system being too unreliable and the jet blocking, I have replaced it with an E85 fuel system(separate to the normal fuel system). It has its own tank, pump, pipes, filter, regulator and injector all mounted under the bonnet. I mostly just use the car for clubsport events and keep it road legal for convenience and testing. I could not find anything that seemed to cover this in the LVVTA docs. Do I need to cert this?(The car is already certed for all modifications prior to this)

As said earlier, those gay rubber cups are epic high spring rate. You just need some good shocks and you won't need to slow down for corners anymore. The dash is just custom wood with vinyl wrapped around it. I think the sections were held together with aluminium tabs, and the self tappers you can see. The 510 was my older Bro's. He sold it about 10 years ago, those photos are pretty old.

I have mine on Aux 7, which can only do pwm up to 300Hz, which would explain your speedo issue. I do happen to have Aux 2 free(which is not limited to 300Hz), which I did not realise earlier, as it was wired to my old idle control valve and the wire is cut short.... But I should be able to at least move the needle a tiny bit if my problem was the same as yours was.

I think I can use this http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5435&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11 to correct the speedo when both the speedo and the link and connected to the speed sensor!

I originally posted some of this on Toyspeed. But maybe someone on here can help. Basically, I have a KP starlet. The drivetrain is all sorts of toyota/nissan frankenstein. The original speedo is mechanical and it reads 20% too fast. Recently I got a Link G4. I'd like to use a gearbox speed sensor and connect it to the Link so I can log my speed(mainly for track days). I got a speed sensor from an S14, it fits in my S12(CA18ET) gearbox. I have wired the speed sensor to digital-in #4 on the link and worked out the calibration. So the Link knows how fast I am going. BUT, the car is road legal. I have to have a working speedo! I can't use the mechanical one and the speed sensor at the same time. So now I have a Nissan speedo(this one happens to be from an N15 pulsar). This is where my problems start. I can wire the speedo directly to the speed sensor and it works, but the speedo reads about double the actual speed. Meanwhile, the Link is also still wired to the speed sensor, and showing the correct speed. I should be able to take the signal wire from the speedo and connect it to Auxiliary output #7 on the link. Then the link can drive the speedo. The Link gives me lots of calibration options in this configuration. But I cannot get the speedo to do anything. Here is how it went down: Okay, so now I have a nissan speedo. (I initially had a toyota speedo) I wired the speed sensor directly to the speedo. One wire to ground and the other to the signal terminal on the speedo. Then connected the positive and ground terminals on the speedo. I used the drill to turn the speed sensor. Using the drill, I could get the speedo needle to sweep from 0-180kmh. (I tried the same thing on the Toyota speedo, nothing happened.) Okay, so I moved it to the car. (It's on axle stands with no wheels on the back.) Speed sensor is in gearbox. Speedo connected to power and ground. Speed sensor is connected to ground and to the signal terminal on on the speedo. Start car and put it in 2nd gear. Speedo goes up to 30kmh when idling. Seems too fast. Rev engine, speedo goes up and down as expected. Connect the digital-in wire on the Link to the signal wire from the sensor(the speedo is still attached). Speedo says 30kmh. Link says 1654kmh..... Forgot to calibrate the digital input(number of pulses per 100m). NEK MINIT! I worked out it is about 1018 pulses per 100m. Now the speedo reads 30kmh, the link reads 14kmh(which is about right). Rev engine, speedo goes up, Link speed reading goes up. Put gearbox in 5th, rev to 3000rpm. Link reads 100kmh(which is about right). Speedo goes well past 180kmh. Connect Speedo signal wire to Link Aux 7(set to speedo out). It is set to "sweep" the needle to 200Hz on key on. This doesn't happen. Engine running at idle. 2nd gear. Link reads 14kmh. Speedo reads 0kmh. Aux 7 can only produce a PWM signal up to 300Hz. What is the difference between the signal from the speed sensor and the pwm signal from Aux 7? I don't have anything as fancy as an oscilloscope(or know how to use one) to look at the two signals. Would the speed sensor signal be analog? If anyone can answer this, is there a circuit I can use that will convert the pwm output from the link into the same kind of signal from the speed sensor? This would be the preferred solution. If there are 1018 pulses per 100m. Then does that make it 2.8Hz per kmh? If I can only produce 300Hz, doesn't that mean the Link can only make the speedo go up to 107kmh? It works if I have the link and the speedo both attached to the speed sensor. But, the speedo reads WAAAAAAAY too fast. WOF guy won't like this. Is there a circuit I can use that will manipulate the signal from the speed sensor to the speedo that will reduce it? I drew some AWESOME diagrams of the two configurations.

As requested, I looked BACK IN TIME!!!!! And found some old pictures. Kinda really hard to see it there... It's basically a copy of the bracket on the left. Simple as! I think I also drilled a new inner pivot for the radius arm rod thing in the sub frame. So it gave it a bunch of camber which I could fine turn with the adjuster. Here, have a photo bomb. You may or may not be interested. I got it in around 1998..... I think. This was after maybe a year or two. Then... it got a little out of hand. The nephew. He's 14 now!!! Made a sweet dash! MG Metro 4pot brakes. These are "adjusties" for a mini. The long ones go in the back. The back and front ones are the same, you just don't use an extension for the front. Anyone with a lathe could make them for SFA. At that point it had become too big and taken too long. I had just bought my Starlet. It was about 2002-3 and I sold it to a guy in Featherston. AFAIK it never got finished. Sorry for the hijack

I made some camber adjusters years ago on mine. They are REALLY simple. Just a bit of angle, some threaded rod and some nuts.... I might even be able to come up with a photo of them from the FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAR distant past. I also found that all the cool mini stuff was really expensive just because it comes from the UK. It was far cheaper to work it out yourself and have it made locally! But just remove the big nut at the end of the radius arm, then the little bracket comes off with 3 bolts. What you need to do is slot the big hole that the radius arm rod goes through. Slot it up to increase the negative camber. Once you slot it, just put it all back together, don't tighten up the big nut until the car is back on the ground. The weight of the car will push the radius arm rod thing up to the top of your slot. Then tighten it up. Of course you will need to do some maths to work out how many mm for one degree of camber. If you get a wheel alignment, you will probably find that the wheels are pointing in all sorts of directions. They aren't exactly precision built.

Roy valued my modified starlet when it got written off. His value was much higher than all the "normal" valuers. I just gave him a list of the modifications and some examples of what people on tardme were asking for similar starlets.

I think Honda City headlights are the right size for a straight swap, and take halogen bulbs. Should be cheap as from a wrecker.

Holy shit. Did the old owner keep it parked IN THE SEA!?!?

Nothing is missing. I was just wondering if, in theory, you could get away with changing stuff as long as it still fitted with the details on the plate. Of course you would have to change where you got your WOF... For example: My engine details are "1800cc" "NISSAN MOD" "IL4-OHC" "FUEL-INJ TURBO" What would stop me from replacing my CA18ET with a Z18ET?(not that I would actually want to do that swap ).