Adoom

Passed its cert check on Friday, with nothing needing changing!! He has also done a wof check, but can't submit the wof until the new cert plate arrives. Hopefully the plate should arrive on Wednesday and I can put some rego on it and pick it up on Thursday. Been two years since I drove it. I'm going over there on something called.....a "train". Gonna be fun times, or death, driving it home, the long long long long long way because the LSD is a bit harsh and the weather is supposed to be wet. Is it time to pick it up yet?! How about now? Now? Now?

Yes, it's in degrees. PM sent for eeeeeemail address

You don't need a link. I meant that you could look at the ignition map stuff and see what they did with the timing. It's pretty visual in the pc link software, with graphs and tables and stuff. The help is pretty good too.

We made no real gains with the water injection(Aquamist) until the tuner replaced the water with 100% E85. The added E85 allowed them to reduce the "normal" 95 octane by 20% and advance the timing. But the amount of E85 being injected was inconsistent. I replaced the water injection system with a single fuel injector attached to a pressure regulator and fuel pump with a little 5L tank. This seemed to be much more reliable/consistent. But then the engine killed itself, I wasn't sure if it was the fault of the E85 injection(uneven mixture distribution??) or a blown head gasket. I decided not to keep the system on the new engine. I can send you a copy of my LInk G4 tune if you want, you can view it on the pc link software that you can download for free. My clutch was made by MP Autoparts here in Upper Hutt. http://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/ It wasn't cheap, $500+ But no problems with it slipping. And it feels fine, perfectly drivable in normal traffic. OS freight service, for the win!

Whats the dealieo with that rule where you can drive your unwarranted vehicle if you are driving it to a place to get work required for the warrant? My Starlet has rego on hold(last rego was 2014) and wof expired. It needs a new cert because I have changed from a sohc to a dohc. My cert guy is in carterton(Julian Cheer), I am in Upper hutt. Technically, getting the cert is "work required for the wof".... If I drive it to carterton, and I am stopped by "the man", would I get away with it? I would probably be stopped because my car has panels that are not all the same colour, rather than for speeding or whatever.

Dunno why the photo is rotated... :/

Collected it from dyno tune today. No issues. Once it's legal I take it back for the "road tune". I'm pleased with the results. High and low boost. Try tried increasing the boost further, but it made less power, because heat. More power needs better or bigger turbo.

So I started it when I got home. I can actually see one of the exhaust cam bearings/caps through the filler hole and I can see oil coming out around the......journal? And there is plenty splashing around. So oil must be getting through the whole system. So I ran it till it was good and proper warm/hot. The oil pressures are now down to where the manual says they should be. I visited STM on my lunch break and booked it in on the 9th, I wanted to do the week before, because I am on leave, but they were full up. But I can drop it off the friday I am on leave. They will run the engine in on the dyno $$$ then do the dyno tune $$$$, then because it is not road legal and they cannot do the road tune part of the tune, they "pull it back" so it's "safe" and I can go sort out my cert, wof and rego. Then I bring it back so they can finish the road tune which is included in the dyno tune cost. I've yet to figure out how I will pick it up since I am at work. The trailer I had thought of borrowing is out of action because of brake problems. I guess I won't get away with just driving it home, it looks conspicuous with its multicoloured panels and rego sticker that says 2014.

How much do you expect it to cost? I really like this idea and would also like to do something similar. But I haven't bothered to contact any shed companies because it's so early on for me and almost all of them don't list indicative prices. I would still need to: Maybe fix some house stuff. Sell the house. Find someplace temporary to live with the dog and all my shit. Find a nice bit of dirt to build on, somewhere around Carterton, but not much further north. Buy that dirt. Borrow more money. Make some barn/house plans with hugemungous garage. Find someone to build that thing for not shitloads of money. Fill garage with cars I now can no longer afford!

The workshop manual says pressure at idle should be more like 20psi. And 50-60psi at 3000rpm

I got it warm enough for the thermostat to open, maybe 3 or 4 times, then only running for a few minutes checking for leaks. How would I check the cam bearings are "pissing oil at idle"... All I can see through the filler hole is one lobe. I imagine running the engine with a cam cover off would make a bit of a mess?

I got two new sparkle plugs this morning and put them in making sure the socket was straight. Engine runs MUCH better now. I think I must have dropped the ratchet on those two front plugs and broken them, I'm sure I would have noticed if I broke them when I first put them in. Then I took it off the axle stands and pushed it out into the sunshine and gave it a bath, for the first time in two years! No coolant or oil leaks I can see. The the gauge says the oil pressure is still really high. 60psi at idle and 100psi(max on the gauge) when it's revving higher. I'm 75% sure it was more like 20/60 the first time I started the engine(which is what the manual says it should be). The engine has just been rebuilt. The bearings and oil pump were packed with that white assembly grease stuff, so that is still floating around in there. It has mineral running in oil in it. When I disassembled the oil pump to clean and check the clearances I checked the pressure relief valve was clean and moved easily. What could cause my oil pressure to be so high? I'd rather not have to drop the x-member to take the sump off and examine the oil pump.

So I pulled the spark plugs. And WTF?! Two have cracked insulators?! They are new. I've run the engine maybe 3 times with them in. They certainly did not look like that when I put them in. Any idea how this could have happened?

Mostly sorted the mess of pipes. SO MANY PIPES! Tried starting it again now that the intake pipe is complete. The oil pressure went rather high... All I can think of is the oil pressure/water temp plugs might be mixed up. But it was fine last time... I haven't changed anything.... A bit tight down there... See the timing thingy...

ALL THE FANCE!!

The Link has an input from the ignition "start" position that needs to be live before it will do its thing, like make the sparkle plugs sparkle. Your idea would probably work on something with carbs.

Figured out how I can crank the engine and see the timing marks at the same time.

IT LIVES!!!! So I got it to start and sorted the timing. I used an SR20 base maps, link forums suggested that. Trying to get all the air out of the cooling system. No oil or water leaks so far. It runs rough as. Like it's running on 3. I'll pull the plugs and see what they are like. IC pipe is still not done, I need to modify the bit of pipe that has the BOV, IAC take-off and IAT sensor so it will fit. My turbo oil line still needs shortening, it's 4 or 5 times too long.

Messing around with the plumbing/hoses. I have a shitload of hose clips and about 8 90deg elbows to get some hoses to where they need to go. :/ Got my intercooler back from being modified. Picking up a timing light tonight to have a go setting the base timing/calibrating the triggers. Not sure how I can crank the engine and look at the front pulley timing marks at the same time.... might have to get the gf to assist.

I bought a cheap windows tablet to run pclink on so i can have custom gauges that are in my face. And so i can do logging. I need to make a sturdy but easily removable mount. with velcro straps or something.

Coooooool. How big is it? Can you show us a floor plan? Is it a kit of some kind, or have you done all the design/plans yourself?

Ah, I see the boost leaks out. spose I need that long ugly pipe.

I should have mentioned that the engine has a link ecu and is using a MAP, not an AFM. So if it leaks, it should make no difference if it leaks through its own filter or via the main intake pipe, right?

FYI: Idle Speed Control/Idle Air Control... On my CA18DET I need some crazy snake hose to plump the IAC valve to the intake pipe. Can I just stick a little filter directly onto the valve and not have to have the long hose? I can't think why it would not work. It's not like it needs boost pressure... it only opens when the engine is idling.

I had to remove the fuel tank to replace a fuel hose that had gone hard. The tank still had about 30L of BP98 from 2 years ago so it fairly heavy. I ended up pouring it out the filler pipe into a 20L drum for the mower... then that was full, I filled my 5L bottle a few times and transferred it to the corolla. It will be fine. I also took the opportunity to remove the battery tray, fuel pump and surge tank so I could clean it up and paint it. It was a horrible mess from my old battery that seemed to spew a bit of acid and ate the paint. I also made the access hole for the hoses about twice the size it was before, should be able to change stuff without removing the tank now. The paint is not quite dry yet, so I have not put the rubber bead around the edge of the hole. I've ordered some 2" alloy pipe to replace the IC inlet/outlet. They are currently 1 7/8" or something. I've been meaning to do that for ages, and the hose should clamp down much better once that's done.