slacker.cam

Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers. Yep, bugger all I can do about it now. I have 6 weeks to rebuild the motor if need be. Rust on the valve faces also makes sense and could explain why two cylinders are off. Although, it has stainless valves so it would have to be corrosion on the valve seat instead. Still possible I guess. It has twin 45 sideys so the butterfly balance is still a possibility too.

'sall good man... Didnt really seem condescending at all. Your point about carbon buildup getting on the valve seats is interesting. It could be another explanation. I'll cross my fingers and hope I just scored a bargain

You'd think I'd never done a compression test before huh? I think it was the arkwardness of doing it on another persons car which made me forget to open the throttle and stuff. I got a pretty sweet deal on the car - yeah. At the end of the day a rebuild is on the cards regardless of the current condition of the motor as it's been in the car since 2004. I'd like to do it after the trackday in August if I can get away with it though. The motor is fairly well built (wiseco pistons, balanced crank, etc) so unfortunately it's not as easy/cheap as just swapping in a healthy bottom end.

Hrmmm. The throttle was completely shut for all the tests Amateur... How low would the compression read on a healthy engine with the throttle closed? As low as 50?

Of course it would. Brain is not running at full speed tonight it would seem. The first job is to get a timing light and see what's actually happening with the ignition. If it's all good then I'll pull the head and go from there. Cheers

Yeah that makes sense. It's strange that both cylinders are down to almost exactly the same point. I'm hoping if it is actually a legitimate fault that it won't be anything too major. It went from running consistent lap times one meeting to not starting the next so I don't think anything catastrophic has happened. It didn't die while on the track (so I have been told). Could skipping a tooth (or more) on the cam belt make two cylinders have low compression?

170mA shouldn't be enough to drain a battery overnight, but it sounds higher than it should be. Does the car have an alarm? How long does it take to drain the battery? I guess you've already tried a different one? Winter loves to kill batteries, auto sparkys must love this time of the year.

So I'm looking at buying a car - actually, shit, I've actually bought the car already... It isn't starting at the moment apparently due to a ignition fault. It's a 4AGE on carbs with a link G4 running the ignition. The ECU has only recently been installed and one day the motor decided it didn't want to start anymore and now it pops and farts and refuses to start. So I made a deal with the owner to buy the car as is it seemed reasonable that a ground could have come loose or something like that. A simple electrical fault will be easy for me to fix. The deal was if it compression tested OK then I'd buy it without seeing the car running. So I went and compression tested it over the weekend - cold, as the motor won't start. 2 and 4 measured well down (50psi), 1 and 3 were fine. Should I believe anything that the compression tester told me? Or if the motor is cold is it all just a waste of time? The other thing is the car has been sitting 6 weeks without having been started. Could that provide some insight into the low figures? Anyway, I've bought the car (I'm fucking amping) so it doesn't really matter. I'm just thinking ahead and wondering if I may not have to pull it apart after all.

I've just nailed down a 36sqm shed for $80/wk in Glendene. It'd be nice if it was a bit bigger but it'll do for now. Has double roller doors and about 60sqm of outdoor gated storage space to go with it. It also includes power and water which is nice. Probably the best part is there's no lease so I can leave whenever I want. Anyway, I'm still keen on a group workshop - I just need space ASAP. I'm really only interested in places that are north shore or west though as I've had a workshop before and the distance from where you live definitely plays a part in how often you work on your cars. There's a place around the corner from work (Glendene) which is 275sqm. The agent wasn't totally sure of the price when I called her but she thought it was around $18k pa. Do you guys think this is too big? Rot808 - are you reading this thread? I thought you might be interested in a home for some of your fleet?

I had a chat with a mortgage broker the other day about buying commercail properties. Apparently the situ is a lot different than buying residential properties. You need 50% deposit and the longest term they will give you is 15 years. That pretty much ruined my ideas of buying a live-in place. Although I have no reason to think he was wrong it'd pay to double check that.

Yeah you need to add GST to whatever price you see on the tard. You then also need to add the other outgoings which should be limited in our case to rates, body corp fees (if any), power, and insurance (if not included in the lease). Body corp fees and rates can really sting you so it pays to ask what they are before getting too excited about a place. Another cunty thing is a lot of the places where it's a block of units have restrictions on what you are and aren't aloud to do there - often you will find mechanic/dirty work is not aloud.

I'm definitely interested in some space. Would like enough to store 1 car (probably on the car trailer) and to work on another. I was looking at a double garage just down the road from work yesterday for $80/wk which i guess would be about 30-40sqm but that was a little smaller than i would've liked. For a sweet spot I'd be willing to pay up to $100/wk. I'm also keen to look at live in options but I think the chances of finding something that'd work is fairly low. I live in Red Beach and work in Kelston so somewhere westy-northy would be best for me. Where suits you best? Hook up some TM links!

It's only $300 so I'll likely pick it up at that price. I guess I could have one made though - never really thought about that to be honest. This is all a bit of a luxury as I already have a big 230mm clutch setup for when I was planning to run the car with a turbo but now it'll be NA I'd like to get rid of some of the rotating mass. My current flywheel is over twice the weight...

Looking at buying this flywheel for my race car: http://www.trademe.co.nz/browse/listing ... =384651580 It looks like it has some pretty funky heat marks on it but I'm no clutch guru. Is this normal? If not, what would have caused this? Most importantly will it be good to go if I get it resurfaced? Thanks gents.

Holla if you need a hand. Happy to come and tidy up that wiring at some stage at the very least. Oh, and to have a hoon on your thermo fan wiring.

I'm assuming State of Origin is some sports related thing? Since when did you like sports? You've changed Tara... I'll be there!

I think it looks sorted with the black trims, sills and pillars. Those chrome trims need to go at the very least IMO. Have you got any leads on where to get a front lip from? I'm on the lookout too. Not really keen on a fibreglass one from that dude on TM.

It's probably too late if this has gone off for galvanising already but something to beware of is situations like in this pic: Make sure that you weld all the way around the suspension mounts and anywhere where you have two pieces of metal mated hard up against each other. Water will work its way in there and this will be the first place it rusts out. You can't guarantee that the galv will work its way in there either. For a little extra work now you can significantly increase the life span of the trailer. Also, do you have a jockey wheel? I have a sweet one that I bought for that trailer project of mine but no longer need...

That looks sick. Box sections in the corners will also be good for a wheel rack if you ever want to go racing. Will it be braked? You just became my new best friend. I farkin hate paying for hire trailers. I used a trailer recently where the mud guard folded down so you could open the door. Was a really good setup. Didn't get pics unfortunately.

Good job man. Good to hear that the clutch is all sorted. I wonder what's causing the miss. It'd be worthwhile to have a look at the timing with a timing light at some stage. Vids of skids please!

Rose joint life. How long is it going to be till you do the 4 link conversion? Realistically the cost and effort needed to change the existing rod ends probably isn't worth it. It's not like there isn't a thousand other rattles, cluncks and vibrations that help to mask it When you do get the 4 link make sure Tony uses good quality joints though. Like truenotch says - if you get decent ones then they last forever.

You absolutely need automotive grade ones, not industrial grade ones. All the ones with grease nipples are industrial and won't last in a car. Get teflon lined ones if you're worried about clunking and play. They take way longer to wear out so they dont transfer as much noise to the car. Also, with rose joints you pretty much get what you pay for. Try and go for a reputable brand. Aurora and FK and two of brands that I have used. Aurora would be my pick of the bunch. Kendalls is LONG gone i think. They used to be just down the road from my house but it disappeared at least 5 years ago. Cardwells is on William Pickering and do American race gear. They are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination. If someone knows of a good source of reasonably priced teflon lined rose joints in NZ i'd love to hear about it. http://cardwells.co.nz/Our_Brands/QA1_S ... Id/41.aspx

Hey guys...... I know something you don't know

I'll be there fo sho. Would be awesome if some hamboes come up. Shit there's a lot of OS love going around at the moment.