Horse25

yup got 3 phase, just hope he can get the phase rotation for me, dont want it pumping the wrong way if it matters:p Getting it from a panel beaters, bit of an overkill, but im not worried for what i paid for it, ha properly shunt me into the sea, the old brakes aren't exactly the best, Going to have to take the old mans mitsi chariot.

reckon it would go alright, its a worked 2.0L but going to go with something else. as for the compressor is going down the side of the garage, to shake the neighbors floor when it goes . mate works at TopmaQ so get %30 of all the air components and tools http://www.topmaq.co.nz/index.aspx?grpCat=AI so anyone who wants to come around and use it is more than welcome once i get it setup, sand blaster etc

do it lol dont think thats going to happen, picked it up today, took it around to fit the ram tubes, and noticed oil back in the water, so had to take it back

himm, i can rent a trailer for $40 that can carry up to 1.5tonne, not sure if my escort would be good for pulling it though?

hey sounds good, im happy with gas & food. He was saying he has a digger to load it up, and ill try borrow an engine hoist of dan to get it out at this end, he said 1800 by 1200 for the slab, so im guessing it will be slightly smaller than that, but i thought id use that as a guide to give plenty of room

i bought this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =243130181 its up in Blenheim, its around 1800 by 1200, happy to pay for any costs like insurance for the day etc, if anyone has any thing that would transport this on the 3rd, going to leave at 5.30am ish and get back by that night if i can find something to do it. be fucking happy as larry if someone can help me out here. Cheers David

oh sweet, sound like a handy item >hint hint know anything about tunning 45's? coz iknow its going to be expensive to get it done at palmside

I can make a trip, got to run in the car some more, got to get it tuned 1st, its ready to be picked up, but running way to rich >.<

Finally got it running, spent most of the day Saturday trying to get it going, only to have my carbs catch fire, so i gave up, Then Dylan (Ladaspeed) lent a hand for 30min and we had it going in no time. Found that the fuel pump had been put in the opposite way and i had done the leads etc wrong started to run it in today, nice easy drive around the hills, got a few pics taken.... still havent gotten a decent video yet.

anyone go? i drove through little river to go to port levy for a bit of running in

awesome ill look into, thanks heaps for the help guys! bought a rear seal $9 from super cheap, hopefully get it going tomorrow night! then nana it for 1000km >.<

hey dont worry, thought they would all be the same too, ive bought one off trademe the guy reckons its for an auto cortina as it has a different setup, but it looks identical to the one that is out of mine. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =239977931 And the one on the right is normal as far as i know, how it came out when it was working, Cheers David

got given another 2.0 starter today,(cheers D.P.N.S) but it is slightly different to my orignial one, the teeth in my new one are about 5mm less in length, also theres the different physical size, is this beacuse one is a slightly older model? will it still work alright? The replacement is on the left, old on the right

almost done with this one, but the one thats going to go in the van is yellow, might give you a holla then!

I assume you are talking about a single rail, 5 speed Ford gearbox. If so the first question is: Did it leak before hand or have you never had oil in it? The next question is: Have you driven the car (or whatever it is as you have not told us much) prior to this issue> I ask as it is possible that the driveshaft nose it the incorrect size. The Ford Type 9 is not well suited for filling from the gearlever hole but if currently have no choice then I suggest drilling an access hole in your transmission tunnel and blanking it off with a rubber grommet. If the rear mainshaft seal is damaged it can be replaced without removing the gearbox. hey, thanks for the help, yes its the single rail, just had the engine in and out, so i would of stuffed the seal, which i though was something major, but not so, thank fuck, was talking to dan(D.P.N.S) who took for me for a drive in the van which was is fucking awesome, Cheers again! going to try fill it up from the filler with an aircompressor set up, had another look and there is plenty of room, so i rangid up this

I cant fill up my gearbox from the side as my tunnel hasnt been modified at all and i cant reach it, so i was told i can fill it up via the gearstick but takes fucking ages, so i jacked the back of the car up, with drive shaft etc refitted, then started filling, then i came back tonight and found a huge fucking oil puddle everywhere under my car and it had been leaking out the rear where the drive shaft enters, so is it the rear seal or the way i have gone about things? its a T9 gearbox, if it is the seal is it possible to change, with the gearbox in the car, because i really don't want to take the cunt out again! Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers, you can take me for a blat when i come pick it up!

sweet got the engine back and mostly in, Big thanks to Dylan (Ladaspeed) for giving me a hand, just need to get a new solenoid for my starter motor as i broke the main terminal off should be able to start running it in this weekend

if this is of any interest to anyone, an escort with a bike engine http://www.stelectronics.no/situneweb/i ... =3&carid=1 http://www.situne.no/

fuck you made my week, that was it! Your my Hero!!!!!!! hopefully my new alternator will work swell and wont put out 17v at my battery, can you buy new bright bulbs for the dash lights? as mine are dull, the layer of dust and crap on the wont help though.

excuse my noobness! few months back, the lights and heater started working over time when i gave it some revs, like they would go really bright etc, didnt take much notice of it, until my battery started boiling, ran it for a bit like that, then i decided i better do something about, so i put my volt meter on it on normal idle and it was ready 14v's then i gave it a few revs, then it went up to like 16-17V. I thought my voltage regulator on the alternator had fucked out, so i took off the connections at the back of the alternator, drove it for like and hour and every thing was good as, then i went to start it the next morning, bat was flat, which i was expecting, so i connected up the alternator again to charge the battery back up but it wouldn't charge not even the red light on the dash was on to say that it wasn't charging, Bought a new alternator(brand new) and still isn't charging, checked what connections i could, seemed alright, so im wondering if ive fucked the battery, but i can charge it over night, and it holds it's charge and everything, so im wondering what to check next, any ideas would be awesome!!! new battery?

hey dont know if this is any help but ill post anyway, just scanned it out of a manual ive got, only covers up to 1300gt though >.<

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Bought this in April, girlfriend lent me the money to buy it as long as i stopped spending money on cars, as i said all the work was done on this.....yeah right. So its an original mk2 sport with a 2.0L pinto conversion, the pinto is pretty worked, which i only just found out. Bad points are they rust, it has been resprayed at some point, but not sealed properly so now it has orange peel ripples on every panel, so a full respray will have to be done in the next few years. Pictures Speak for themselves. Was Driving alright for a few months, had my fun in it. Then it wouldnt start one morning, Found the points had closed up, so go it going, made an unbearable squealing noise, thought it was one of the bottom end bearings or something major. took the motor out and down to the motor reconditioners, turns out the sound was the cam cover But luckily i didnt take it out as the cam guides were fucked, said it was the worst he had ever seen, and there was around 10mm of play either side, also the block had been honed to much and the pistons weren't a tight fit as they should be. Found out alot of head work had been done, porting etc, The rest of the Engine is in really good nick. So he quoted me a few options and this is what im going to get done to the engine Full Overhaul: To strip, clean and check out engine. Bore and hone. Surface grind block. Mount and measure bearings. Change pistons / conrods. Polish crankshaft. Change auxiliary shaft bearing. Final wash and assemble short block. $ Decarbonise and crack detect cylinder head. Change 8 valve guides. Face seats and valves. Surface grind cylinder head. Change conrod bearings. Clean and assemble. Fit cam and set tappets. $ Assemble long engine. $ will end up costing me the better part of 3k but worth it but not so good when i have another engine build in progress and not expecting this. hoping to get it back and going in the next month.

To get around this you can wrap the master in a bit of heat wrap and an alloy heat shield can make a big difference too. where can i get this, as i need it to hide some rust under my heater buldge cant be fucked fixing it yet!