smokin' joe

after the wee run down, you reckon it will work on the side rails of the stocky?

i won't get a chance to scope it out until they open in the new year. pretty sure both were intact when i dropped the motor out.

off the shelf at an engineers, only 60mm long though. use them all the time for re-building D21 Navara hinges. it's bronze you want , as brass is too soft.

so do you need a std 2.3 beddie manifold? i may know where a whole motor is, if it isn't scrapped yet.

Thanks, you are responsible for pushing the value of these old gems up!! i appplaud you !!!!!we have a '67 sunbeam imp sports, awaiting re-vin and restore.

i accidently bought block head crank and box off a guy in Dunedin for $150, also accidently bought a mint Kiwi Kart Uno roller off him for $450!!

i think he has moved, unsure, Brian never replies to phone messages or e-mails i have sent thus far.

has any one restored one of these? i am wanting the part number for the 2 rear window rubbers, as they might be one of the many that Basis stock, but don't have a picture of. the body seal that goes around the opening and the window seal that goes around the window frame. thanks

Diff'r'us, arn't gonna endorse a product they don't sell, are they?most reputable off the shelf brands will have a product suitable for everyday use, and will do the job splendidly.

ditto. done plenty of them in a similar fashion

i have 2 manual motors, both appear to be early (series 1) one has 6 bolts, the other 8. apart from casting numbers, the only difference i can see between them is the injector rail.one has the FPR mounted onto the end (*8 bolt), the other on top (*6 bolt,later ??) i was of the impression the earliest version had a different crank between auto and manual, but S2 onwards were the same with a 6 bolt crank??

use the corona top hat, or get some cheap S13/14/15 Skyline, laurel etc camber tops and drill new mounting stud holes.

if you need to ask, then fitting a rotor in the hole is gonna be a f$%## mission for you. for what it's worth, about 6 bolts each side and a brake bleed, to find out our brake balance may be out.

pretty much any Toyota RWD can interchange parts as a bolt in fitment in a like for like scenario. it will involve swapping components to get geometry and fitment. depends on what you are wanting from the changes as to what parts you need to find.

ball joint tapers are the same. used to run TT132 LCA in TE71 with KE70 steering arms and struts

i guess it was acturately weighed when it was shipped.

VN V6 manual with manifolds/flywheel/clutch = 160kg on pallet

#A60 series Celica/carina would be very close if not a bolt in

it has a low compression ratio for a start, possibly why they are gutless and thirsty??

all inlet port spacings are the same, but bolt patterns are different (an adapter plate will correct this) all exhaust port/bolt spacings the same. 13T has the lightest factory crank of the pushrod 1.8l, but has the worst head as far as combustion chamber goes (would be a good way of decompressing for turbo use!!) 3T bottm end with 2TG head requires valve reliefs cut into pistons.

has to be the later block, or the bottom of the bore will need the be relieved to clear the shoulder of the con-rod. furthermore, the block needs to be absolutely mint in the water galleries or you will end up with thin spots when you over bore. let me know if you need a crank, i still have a few out of the block.

the Y crank can be made to fit, but never actually physically compared or tried. the Pueto Rican lads take the 3T out to 2.3l+ with them

seeing as they are a mitsi motor, wouldn't it be easier to upgrade to a 6G72 or simalar v6??

same bolt pattern on all T-series, just make sure though, that the bell-housing is from the correct g/box as a T bell won't fit a W box. i have both options if you need one of either (or to compare)

go around all your vacuum lines and nip 1/4" off the end of them and re-fit. fixed countless vehicles this way