barf

I have seen this one before, was attributable to a broken ECU in that case. but check simple things first always.

bump - endplay gauge anyone?

you got it right, just put it onto the wires that power the amp!

got my block on the engine stand, putting bearings and crank in this weekend, got plastic gauge but has anyone got an end-play gauge I could borrow? promise to be careful with it.

yep, the more farads the better. there is a marking for the negative wire only, install it as close to the amp as possible, it should even fit into the connector on the amp if you bend and shorten the legs a little. bear in mind this won't help if the FETs in the amp are toast, which they could be if the damage was done by welding.

a cap will be $2 max from Jaycar, Dick Smith and et cetera

here's some homework then http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupling_capacitor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor#Power_conditioning basically; just solder/connect the negative to a good earth and the positive to the power supply to the amp, i think there are some car-audiophile-type capacitors specifically designed for amp power supply decoupling but they are probably overpriced and just a capacitor anyway. PS> this may not help if your amp is toast

did they do any welding? they could have hurt some components in the power supply in the amp one way of treating this symptom is to add a decoupling capacitor to the power supply for the amp / radio. get the largest affordable value in Farad with insulation rating (volts) roughly twice the vehicle supply (13-14v means get a 25-30v cap). get electrolytic type, they are polar, pay attention to markings (or make cool smoke bombs). treating the cause is better, if you can find it.

just have a good coolant temp gauge and be prepared to shutdown and tow it home, trust the seat of your pants we found that spark timing has a greater effect over temperature than adjustments in mixture, this was on a 6cyl 4-stroke tho get any excessive heat out of the system first, and be smooth on the throttle

90% of carb problems are electrical try another ignition coil if you have one handy, in my experience a weak spark can cause starting problems and symptom of only running when you put your foot up it only to backfire, stumble and/or stall. hope this helps.

i need an engine stand to put this 4g93 together anyone have one they could lend me for a week or 2

so what does a link setup typically cost all up including installation, and tune? im curious.

Yowzer: MS2 is excellent but its not a turn-key solution like the Link and drive-thru tune is, support is from the community instead of a company, quite different worlds. fuel: yes MS2extra does boost control (PWM valve control) and has programmable outputs that can switch something (VTEC, rice cooker, etc) when RPM or MAP or coolant or Throttle sensor etc exceed a stipulated value. actually have a MS2 project coming up with side-draught style fuel injection manifold and throttle body injection is no problem for MS either.

fred yeah those are some tacky screenshots from tunerstudio i'll give megatunix a whirl but last time I tried it diddn't support MS2extra f/w, given that was a while ago

for $0.02 i can say that software configurable dashboard is the way to go, that mini2440 computer on the diyefi thread looks like the ticket. the computer's screen could then be the ONE dashboard instrument you need, being able to show all, or your favourite selection of gauges. no rice burning extraneous side-pillar gauge mounts, just one discreet display for everything - you do have everything monitored by engine management computer i'm assuming? in the case of megasquirt, Battery V, coolant, RPM, MAP and etc are all output via RS232, tunerstudio has a nice dashboard skin selection and a dashboard designer tool TunerStudio exmaples:

upon inspection of my bore, i can clearly see honing marks (engine is '96 4g93 turbo 270,000kms - and thrashed). full of coke from the leaking valve stem seals but that cleaned up easily. but since i'm replacing rings, from what i gather, i must still re-hone to bed the rings in. anyone have a hone tool and dial gauge they could loan out to measure my bore? half-a-dozen-of-your-favourite? how can i measure crank shaft main bearing end play? what other clearances are most important?

hello I'm having my first go at replacing rings and rod bearings and have a few embarrassingly elementary questions for you guys; what is the intended outcome of cylinder wall honing? surely the piston rings must smooth down any burrs made in this process? why not have a perfectly smooth bore? when installing big end / con-rod bearings, do I lube the face that meets with the con rod and bearing cap or only the surface that moves?

AFM sensor has major control of ECU's output so clean / check it too ?

put a diode from ON-battery to the smaller positive terminal to the alternators field coil like a 1n4001 (or higher rated), earth the thing good, does it have a built in rectifier and regulator?

thanks x100 p.s. who's phil?

hoping someone can lend some advice, where is a good place to buy pistons for an aging mitsubishi 4g93 (turbo from CM5A, '96 GSR lancer) ? and while i'm asking, does anyone in chch have a slide hammer i can borrow for an afternoon? (if yes; what's your favorite beer?)

I must disagree with the posters advising to run without current limiting. this WILL work but is not ideal and may even shorten the life of your fuel pump, depending on your fuel injection;'s electrical system. the resistor is likely used for current limiting. pumps are a simple electric motor and should be current limited if you have fuel pressure in excess, so as to prevent the insulation breaking down on the windings, or other deleterious effects from excessive current. measure the resistance of your fuel pump and apply some ohms law: (values are theoretical) pump = 1.0 Ohm voltage = 13.5v ohms law: I = V / R I = 13.5 / 1 = 13.5A <-- fuel pump using 13.5A == overworked pump or magic smoke, it ideally should use less current. the fuel pumps i've seen which measure 1 - 3 ohms are a simple electric motor with no built-in resistor, thus require current limiting. they DO work without a current limiting resistor but if you just spent money on a new fuel pump then you will probably want to look after it. goto jaycar or dse and buy some 30-Watt wire-wound-type resistors (or carbon film if you can dissipate the heat). install say a 68 ohm in series with the fuel pump and you should notice the pump quiet down, ensure your fuel pressure is still adequate. if this reduced the fuel pressure too much, replace with another, lower resistance resistor or put another 68 ohm in parallel with the first resistor because R = 1 / (R1 + R2 + R3, etc) many OEM fuel injection systems already incorporate a current limit system which may be why some posters assume it is ok to run one without current limiting. additionally, aftermarket fuel pumps can have a built-in current limiting resistor and that is common for older-style add-on/external fuel pumps. just measure the DC resistance! it will be 1-3 ohms without a current limiting resistor. further reading: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirchhoff%27s_circuit_laws http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law