JoKer
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Posts
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Everything posted by JoKer
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hah yeah still confused then LOL emailed them to find out, either way I'm a billboard & not there for speed or awards LOL EDIT : bloody "man-looker" weeeeee
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I'd imagine as a driver 'we're' already covered & shouldnt be a problem thou I am still not sure which part we're entered to on the Sat lol (is it super lap / HP & Circuit car part of just the cruises?)
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one of those love to hate but still go events If anyone is keen to hop in my car for the Drive your Mates session hit the indemnity form below I also have Spot prize or two from @mlracing.co.nz as a 'Club I am representing on my own' give away!! (*T&C's Apply)
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@Gasser are you here then?
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or on the tail gate? mine is underneath like above & i swear everytime I move it it drags, PITA! but handy for loadign heavy stuff as a loading ramp / bottoming out device /ling
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Then back in DVK for 5 mins and a Lady attacks the trailer with her low IQ (skip straight to the 30 second mark for the 'action') forward view (also nothing much to see here) No Harm done : I LOL'ed when I came out & saw the Mrs wandering around it like it had a flat...
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The above has been in hibernation, busy time selling & buying houses / wedding down south So I offered an OC:GC freight run Someone joked 'can you bring a car back with you, then I had someone ask me a favor about a Subaru in Pahiatua, if only they had a way to get it to the South Island.... so a plan was hatched to do a swap.. Along the way a Towbar wanted to get south & a Set of rims north, and another wanted an Interior from Nelson so the Old Barrymobile did a trooper & 900km return trip I lost a hubcap!
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Bought a house : moved one of the important things in on the weekend both the House & car built in 1976! Some sort of fate / meant to be eh?
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12 of something would be super or... electric!
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yeah Local car won a golden ticket to Summer nats, interior caught fire at last years 4&R jambo
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Still nothing notable for the thread today was the Dannevirke Wheels With Attitude :
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aftermarket is a no-no, cant cert or WOF them in NZ, especially not Driver controlled versions OEM is fine for 'adjustable Exhaust' actuation some Legacy GTB's had them and Nissan 300ZX's (ecu controlled) this may have changed since last time I looked (a few years now)
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which is covered by everything from the headers that bolt onto the Block back pretty much so yeah a Bolt on a Baffle is the same definition 'in the rules' as the bolt that hold any part of the exhaust to the Block / engine
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what was that rust converter stuff? or is that snake oil too
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Other than the recent Mountain out of a Molehill that was the Ballast resistor Failure nothing to report other than topping up the Gas and using it and Being a home for spiders Happy 2019 OS Some mine / most from around the Globe Happy New Year Avenger.co.nz Source for the other Images : Dodge Polara 2 door Quad Headlight : https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp9V7HND_Gv/ Jumping Dodge 1500 Advert : https://www.instagram.com/p/BcHp5P0HvH_/ Iranian Blue Avenger in centre : https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf8eHOoHJaJ/
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cool yeah ta that was one of the mentions of why the Ballast may fail too (gets hot OFF Load) so might look at moving it a tad to aid cooling too Thanks heaps OS!
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Chapter 4. (hoping this info may help someone here one day & not just me making noise : been a points man since 1997 > 2017) so I whip out me multi meter I also found this sweet Clock in my parts Bin! Measuring the Ohm's : Low side High one in the car same test : Low Nothing High Confirmed! Plug in spare block & it fires up instantly Any clues to why or how it failed other than "they do that" was weird how it ran when parked : then dead [SOLVED] also obviously the multi meter has read different figures to what I was expecting, that I wrote on the side, is it ok to run this block? Or will it let the smoke out too?
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Ace (yep fully aware potentially answered my own question in OP then went off man-looking for other problems to focus on) will swap it out & report when I get a chance today (Last minute Xmas orders to make & try to get out) is there a work around should this ever happen again? or do I just add to the list of spares to carry in an emergency?
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this just came up on the Classic Cars and Wrecks of New Zealand Facebook Group So I can not confirm the validnessness of the information or if it is current or when the answerer used this method etc The question was : 1st best answer was: on this picture if you want the source (or to add your thoughts) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10218633745743619&set=gm.2019630678123767&type=3&eid=ARByjbpN779Z4hoeqB_KaaoICfWeIdbUn2CZ0hpxRx0M5ajmsuDuEqJhQPRCU5Q7RzV2DU3gYGnFdCoj sorry if it's been covered before I had a quick scan of the OP
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yea there's only one feed on the + side of coil (12v on) and one on the -ve side of coil (there may have been a falling off = main problem as there a couple of spare wire in the area but nothing that looks like its lost its home if you catch my drift) with the -ve lead unpligged the -ve side of the coil still has the 12V, the -ve lead has nothing appreciate hard to see where you are lol might take more pics tomorrow after I've put ignition & steering back together (easier to get the shear bolts out) oddly my spare parts Ign still has intact shear bolts! Never seen them 'live' before
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Coil report 12.14 Volts from BOTH sides (all plugged in correct & car ON) I suggest its feeding right through to the -Ve side (does a coil do this normally? its name does suggest a coil or wire right?) as in, unplugging the -ve side still results in the 12.14V with the +ve feed still live or I was going to suggest points in contact but its not got points anymore... or is my coil shot? & yep sorry hard to diagnose over the internet hope I'm providing adequate information & tests, gees I used to love circuits & Techno stuff
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got 12's on one prong on the Ballast resistor (bottom right only on the white block) and 11-12 on both sides of Coil (car "on" position") its tucked under battery tray so cant quite see which is the + side can tell some of this is a two man job (crank & check) and there's only one of me here currently
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confirmed same result(starts but wont run) power to the coil eh
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before I go & let the smoke out that's be all of them together & touch the starter to the bunch right? I do have a multi meter on my & get a circuit through the ign switch, mostly in the start position?
