slipsittin

X2 awesome talent man... its something to be proud of thats for sure. Corey

I also work at Goughs and run CAT DEO 15w/40 in my petrol serina van with no issues. It does have more cleaners than some oils but that is not a bad thing either. I have brought it and run it in many diesel trucks, tractors, utes and cars for over 15 years with no worries or let downs. Being a diesel I would say go for it. Corey

Thats the link I was trying to post but it didn't work when I tried to click on it. Cheers for that, Corey

What do all those turbo specs mean? A/R is the Area to Radius ratio...literally a measurement of the size of the exhaust housing. Picture of a/r measurement from Garrett Turbos: A Stage III exhaust wheel is a larger/higher flow version of a standard Stage I wheel. The physical dimensions of the wheel are larger. These require a Stage III exhaust housing that matches the shape and size of the Stage III wheel. The stock T3 has an exducer diameter of 1.898" and a major diameter of 2.319" The stage II T3 has an exducer diameter of 2.122" and a major diameter of 2.559" The stage III T3 has an exducer diameter of 2.229" and a major diameter of 2.559" Trim is a ratio of the minor (inducer) diameter compared to the major (exducer) diameter of the compressor wheel as calculated below. Pics from Garrett Turbos: Partial Source: TurboByGarrett.com - Turbo Tech101 360 degree bearing means the thrust bearing is a complete circle, not cut out in one section like the 270 degree bearing. Obviously a full bearing will provide more thrust support than a partial bearing which makes a 360 bearing better for performance applications. Adiabatic Efficiency of a Compressor: The ratio of the work input required to raise the pressure of a gas to a specified pressure as related to the actual work input. Basically it shows how efficient the compressor wheel design is at pressurizing the air to a certain pressure/ how well it can pump air without heating the air more than thermodynamic law says it should.

I would see what compressor housings are available first and try retarding the cam timing by 2-3 degrees it should alter the rpm that maximum boost comes through at due to the piston valve position. If i was you i would try to get more air in there and see if you can get it to be a smoothe delivery as per your torque curve but more and raise the cam closing timing to being a little closer to TDC this will give you a bigger kick and a sensation of higher power. The cam timing is also only time and no $$$. So its a win win situation. Corey

if you are keen i might have to get your professional help= $ for you it wont be for a while though at this stage with my job being shaky Corey

Very cool and very effective through to 10,000 plus rpm Corey

The s15 silvia ones are ok but a bit top endy for street use. Although you can hybrid them easy enough. It depends how much you want to spend I guess. I would talk to someone who knows and go from there. Phillip at Diesel Tune in St Lukes does all my stuff and has done for years but I'm not sure how that would suit you. If you want the turbo to work harder in the mid range you need to Dport the exhaust but it needs to be D ported in such a way that the gases will work with the flow of your manifold. Also what would a manifold like that cost? I'm very impressed with the quality of your workmanship. Corey

I lost them to my flat mate pouring acid over all my stuff 12 years ago The roller cam made the biggest difference believe me. also the intercooler from a mack truck was the other big help. I also had water injection diectly into the port area in each cylinder. It was a $9000-00us parts engine and the exchange rate was $1-00NZ to 37centsUS Also I stand corrected it was a blow through set up that made the big power my suck through on made 210hp with water injection into the front of the carb. Sorry for the misleading comments I will get more sleep from now on Corey

Run a GT40 bosch resin filled coil and all your problems will be better solved on that side. DO NOT RUN MSD BLASTER COILS ON THE LUCAS OR BOSCH DISSY SYSTEMS!!!!!!! They run the wrong resistance in the primary side. Corey.

I wouldn't change the rear end or you will loose torque. I am seriously considering turboing my pinto i'm building for my cortina. I had one in there before but sold it to go V8 (which was a nightmare before it began. I will be doing it so that it has a flat torque curve this time cause I'm sick of having engines blow up due to being to highly modified (the last one was a suck through setup and was 425hp at the flywheel). If I can acheive what I'm going for it will basically have a touque curve that goes straight up and stops at 5000rpm. What I said about your manifold is gospel an you would notice a huge difference in loss of lag. Did you build the manifold? Corey

Hey Jase this is what I found to be awesome although time consuming. The sucking effect from one pipe to the other is vital in 4 cylinders but like VVEGA said in the begining not so much in the V8's.... although I have found if you run the pipes stagered iside the collector the noise changes to a more throaty noise. Also man the dowel idea is very genius I might have to steal the thought lol. Corey Photo is from LC Engineering in the states.

237hp=177kw so thats not to bad if the turbo is to small. Just had a look at your project thread... keep the exhaust side of the turbo and get a bigger compressor snail, also see what trim variations are available for the biggersizes. I'm sorry that it is too late now as you have already made the intake manifold (and you have done an awesome job) but fitting trumpets that pertrude into the plenium by around 10mm will grive you a more meaty mid range and a more smooth usable power band. Glad to hear the other issues are sorted and you have an awesome ride there my friend. Corey

Vizard was only building higher reving engines for strip and circuit. I have Dynoed engines with points and had awesome results until the base plate movement causes issues when the vacume starts altering. Vizard is over rated when he gives advise as he gets royalties from sales of many aftermarket parts also. His books have good advise but at the end of the day are only one mans opinion. Make your own minds up and remember all of us do things differently with the equipment we have available. Its to easy to read info and go off on the wrong track because the person who wrote the book or article has only mentioned what (at their level of expertise) they think is all that is needed to know. Thats why I sometimes may seem like a dick for asking stuff and telling what I know or have found......But this is the reason we here at OLD SCHOOL are getting good feedback. Corey

I aggree with MACKAZ. they are not the most reliable guage/sender unit setup at the best of times but it sounds like the windings in your sender unit have gone. Corey

If you do run this sort of system you need to consult someone who knows their stuff so you don't cause other issues in your lubrication system. VVEGA was the man to talk to but he has now moved on (and is missed for his knowledge and professional input), someone else may know another genius in the hydraulic field. I have never run this system but most heavy diesels do for the reason of finer filtering your oil to extend oil change intervals. I know a lot but don't have the resources to help these days sorry. Corey

Thats not good man I hate people who do stuff like that and set up others for costly errors Glad to hear you sorted it. Hows that head coming on? Corey

Pretty much this is right unless you have access to a wiring diagram to find out whic wires you join. Corey

The retainer springs can be slightly weak too. Have you tried changing the retaining spring with another one? I replaced mine every 3 race meetings or so depending on lap count and I was pulling 9000rpm Yeah there is a trick to the valve settings but rollers can cause you issues also. You can't just get roller followers and slap them on the cam already fitted as they need a different lobe shape to follow (I made this mistake when I was very young and it cost me thousands in damage) Corey

+1 here too. Does anyone know of an engine with the new style sidedrafts runnign on it (like the ones available from Trademe)? Just wanting some feed back as I do like the sound of adjusting the floats like a Holley. Corey

If you get me a spare head I will do some mild porting to it. I'm in the process of finding another machinest who can swirl the valves if mine won't anymore. That alone with the changes of the carbs and exhaust will make the engine smoother. I will PM you my number and you can throw me a TXT to sort it more if you wish. Corey

The price is good and the carbs are way big enough for a street engine. I think you need to sit down and decide a direction for your car before you get silly with the power as the extra power will bring about many other weak links. The other thing you need to do is get an electric fuel pump and a pressure regulator before you even bother to fit them or it will start to cause silly tuning problems. Have you tried to get headers/extractors for these engines??? Anyone still making them??? That and the exhaust and the brakes and the suspension and the tyres and the fuel line size, LOL. The list goes on and on. If you were in Hamilton or closer I would do you a head for the share fact that you have the carbs and thats cool. Oh yeah and Adrian at Franklin Cams is the man. I have had trouble with all the other cam grinders due to them wanting to grind the grinds they have, where as Adrian has made profile to suit our applications.(just a plug for a good bugger). Corey.

I agree with SHOLDOWA on this on where he states check the return side of the fuel. Do it like this: Remove the return fuel line and fit a length of hose to the fuel rail long enough to reach a calibrated container(oil dippers are good, so are the missus cooking bowls... but they don't like petrol lol). Start engine and run for a period of 1 minute then check to see how much fuel has come out also recording the fuel pressure (remember that a restriction will alter the pressure and if the restriction is enough will kill the pressure, shit in the tank can be the worst). Fuel amount should be 1.75-2.5 litres this way. See what you have and it will give you a base to work from so you don't have to go around in circles. Corey.

I have a Isuzu Bighorn and Ford Sierra (without Cossworth) manuals on disc her also if someone wants a copy or maybe I can put up a link some how???? Corey Isn't it funny how we are all driven to find information and not pay someone else to do it.........Thats true old school with modern aid

I should have a disc in a couple of days from my brother and I will PM you to get your address to send. Corey