slipsittin

My wedding was a nightmare but the day was one of the best in my life. Just take it through the A-Z way Gaz and you will get there easily and in no time. All the best for car and wedding mate. Oh yeah and cut off an allan key for your pump drive it won't happen again. Corey

Ah you speak wisely UJ as I remember there being 2 positions for the plug leads in the caps for the crossflows and Repco had the same issue with the pinto ones,which would cause me issues also. Thanks for the compliment. You also know great amounts and we are never to old to learn and help. I'm just glad there are lots of us here like that. Corey

^^^^^^ Good stuff UJ ^^^^^^^

Sweet, good to hear guys

The starter should be about a 400amp draw at initial but it comes down as the engine starts to get past the first rotation. Timing should be set at 10 degrees static (idle with vacume hose clamped off or removed)@700rpm, centrifical advance should be 12.5 degrees @2500rpm with vacume hose off and clamped, vacume advance should be 8.5 degrees @1700rpm There are two front pulley types sierra and cortina but from memory they are set in the same place. They do have a habit of having more than one mark on the outer ring of the front pulley though. I had a dizzy that had to be set up at 25 degrees static which had me baffled and to this day I don't know what the difference was. Is your cam timing spot on????? This will cause all the problems you are having here. I had a pinto that was one tooth out and ran to the point of flames coming out the exhaust when the timing was altered....Was as fast as fuck under acceleration but the noise wasn't pinging as the guy on the dyno found out. I ruled never to let anyone assemble my enignes again no matter how busy I was. (5k mistake fom so called friend). Use a vacume guage to check the butterflies by closing them to the point of the engine dying the vacume should increase and reverse the needle direction the other way (oening the butterflies).

Cheers Spence. I tried google and got anything from 295 to 660cc LOL. I was like WTF they cant come with those all factory Corey

I have some silver top injectors that I'm selling to Trade me but someone asked me what cc they are.... Can anyone help??? Cheers Corey

This is true but I have had issues with these carbs when they have been sitting for a while. The best thing to do is to take it off the clean it with carb clean(different to brake clean and does the job better) from super cheap or some place like that. Then I would poor hot water from a boiled jug through the auto choke pipe inlet and see if the choke is coming right off. People play with the adjustment on the choke also and it ends up keeping the fuel in the choke position but opening the butterflies. also make sure your idle screw is doing its job and not running of the choke one as this causes over fueling. If you remove the butterflies and the linkage, YOU MUST LEAVE EVERYTHING ELSE THERE AS YOU HAVE A HIGH POSSABILITY OF CATCHING YOUR CAR ON FIRE!!!!!!!! This ^^^^^^is because there are vacume ports that also work through the choke set up that even when plugged can cause the engine to over fuel and over flow the float bowl. This was a sure fire when these carbs had the choke removed and fitted to a non crossflow engine(for those who don't know the carb sits over the exhaust manifold) Failure to get it right......Single side draught has good economy compared to the down draught Corey

Filthy ones bars are placed correct for the small Fords. The reason he got better skids when the stop was wound off a bit is it allows the pinion angle to change that little amount more sucking the car down at the rear and holding it there better. If I remember correctly the best angle to set your diff to when it is fully under load is about 1-1.5degrees up from the horizon. (this is subjuct to the side of the pinion the crown wheel is mounted on, or as Mongol pointed out it will work the opposite therefore needing them on the rear side) Any more will allow the spring to try and turn inside out and as already explained with Newtons Law travel just as fast in the opposite direction. Hence the tramping affect comes into play. Then add the tyre pressure increase and tyre bounce from before and we have affectively the tyre rotating then bouncing and catching traction, winding up the axle letting go and doing the whole thing over again. NOTE: This is how most axles snap during skids and or spider or side gears get smashed. If the bars are placed at the back the spring is traveling away from them which makes them of no use what so ever. Also to add is the chance of getting hooked on judder bars with these (the judder bars now are like long fucken river banks!!) but they certainly do have there place and I will have them on my car if my new rear end doens't work to plan. The other bars shown in the pics used to be called radius arms but are mostly called torque rods. These stop the diff tipping down on the decelleration or power off as much as the accelleration. Combined with a sway bar (not to large) they can be used to control bump steer at the rear by moving the sway bar forwards or backwards to alter the amount of pressure applied to the body hence stopping body roll and the bump steer by not allowing the spring to rebound the diff at such a fast rate (shock position/angle and pressure also come into this but its a lot more complicated). This is also possible to do with a double front sway bar set up and if the clearance allows for the engine running one inside the other has other benifits but is alot of setting up. If angled the torque rod arrangement can also take away the need to fit a panhard rod, but they can also create weird things to happen at certain points of suspension travel that would never happen when they are inline with the springs. I run ecentric bolts on my torque rods to allow the ability to alter the diff angle within a few minutes especially if using the same car for street, strip and track use. I also move my rear sway bar alot and find where its best for all three applications then mark it perminently so I can move it to where I need it. I hope this isn't to confusing for some and benificial to all. Corey

Thats a nice height Allan I got the impression he was going for the sill dragging style. Sorry if I misunderstood man. Corey

Actually the volvo bottom end is very soild. The only let down is the oil pump shaft, which is what the guy doing the cambelt on the donor engine for my head broke (thats why it has 16 bent valves now). The drive sprocket on the oil pump is about 70mm in diameter and the shaft looks to be 4-5mm and its wasted at the end of the thread (almost like thats where they wanted it to break ). Thats the weak link. The parts from the turbo 2.3 volvos are also interchangable making it quite a god little number (not all but most volvo turbos have factory forged cranks and rods and later than my donor model have oil squirters in the block) I have been doing my homework cause I actually looked at this. The reason I have stuck with the Ford bottom end is as Durty said for ease and less mucking around. (and to keep Trina happy with progress ) Yeah the sierra struts fit sweet but the top mount has to be from a R31 (I think it was..... pretty sure. You have to slot the holes but the thrust bearing at the top and range of after market tops opens up)skyline to work properly. I am going 5 stud and basically I'm looking at the future for parts and trying to reinvent the wheel I guess to get what I want. (I'm setting it up to be able to run BA falcon offset in case I change my wheels later on (I doubt it but just in case and they are cheap as) I havent tackled the swaybar thing yet and I have to pick up a standard one to let you know that Gaz (should be in the next few weeks and I will have pics if I can find another crossmember as I have already started to modify mine for the new mounts), as I run an aftermarket whiteline unit that is about 26mm I think. Corey

Actually that is a good point. I forgot that cheviot offered most of its 5 stud 14's in slotted for Holden and Ford to cut down machining costs. Obviously others still do Corey

NZ Wheels in Auckland did some for me then pressed sleeves in 5 years ago(I think) and was about $60-00 a hole. I have the same delemer with my cortina Andrew, as the wheels I brought were sold as 5x114 but are 5x112. The advantage that I have is I need to run spacers due to the offset so I can adapt the two patterns to suit. Is that possible for you? Corey

The oxygen is released from the hydrogen at higher temperatures as it gets closer to boiling point. Every cooling system retains air Steve its a natural phenomonum (man thats a big word lol). Most turbo engines only blow head gaskets due to fatigue of the gasket, the head bolts strecthing or not being torqued tight enough, the head is soft causeing the gasket not to seal. Head gaskets being blown on turbo engines are generally caused by people cranking the boost and the above things not being right. A friend of mine years ago worked on the turbo Sierra's at Bathurst for SBR and they had problems with snapping head bolts due to the torque applied to get them to seal in relation to the boost they were running. They were doing the angle torque Ford said twice to get them to stay together. Corey

^^^^^^LOL

Bump steer will be your bigest regret here. Go drop spindles on the front. Corey

This is totally true and why so many after market places have horse power pulleys which effectivly does this.

I think you need to seal the sides of the shroud to the radiator with a foam strip to seal the air going through it. Secondly the air is always in your cooling system hence H2O. Cavitation is worse at higher temps due to the boiling effect. The hotter your cooling system gets the closer it becomes to steam so you need to raise the pressure rating of your cap. ie: if it is a 13lb cap replace it with a 15lb cap. 2lb's of cap pressure can reduce the water temp by up to 8 degreesF in the right circumstances. I used to run the prestone coolant they run in the nascars from repco it dropped my temp by 20degF (and thats a shit load) then the 15lb cap dropped it by 6degF = win win. I used to help build a lot of burnout comp cars and we used to fit a second type of radiator into the heater lines with another electric fan. More capacity = more cooling A lot of euro cars now run 2 water pumps (one one the heater the other one on the engine) and they are getting better results globally than the japas now (economy and efficiency wise)just by controlling the water flow at different rev ranges differently. Also if you are running high boost and the engine has a knock sensor it will be tripping the timing circuit and retarding the timing to fuck while doing burnouts as the on and off the revs causes spikes of boost high enough on some cars (mitsi and subarus are bad for it) to put the factory ecu into limp mode. Not the case with aftermarket ecu's unless they have been set for the same parameters as the factory ones. Good luck with this but try the cap and see what it does if you haven't already done so Corey

The head bolts straight on (as in bolt holes) some of the water and oil passages line up but the oil supply to the head needs to be piped or drilled. A lot of guys are welding blocks of alloy on the read of the head (as the head is about 1inch short of the block) and redrilling that to get the other holes. I'm still sorting through all the info 6 guys from the States have given me so far as some of their methods are quite backwards to what we do here (they machined one head with an angle grinder via a contraption to move it accross the head LOL). I have been concerntrating on so many other things do do with the suspension and wheel fittment. But its all measure and try at this stage. Oh and I can confirm with different top mounts Sierra assemblies are a good choice. I don't know a lot about the aftermarket ecu's but I would really like one that can self adjust (If they make them yet) as the link I had in my Subaru years back wouldn't allow me to drive up Ruapeahu without readjusting it. I will let you know when I'm nearer that stage thanks. Corey

Hey Gaz the booster isn't a problem now with this engine. There are heaps of these in the States now but all have gone turbo and I'm not cause I know I will get far to carried away Corey

Well boes and boetts I now have some progress in the right direction I think and Trina is finally seeing why I keep going online and researching stuff and going to pick a part with measuring equipment. The kids have been helping get rid of scrap and shit left over from the wrkshop I owned and we almost have a good area to work on the car again. The head is designed by Cosworth for Volvo and I had another one but it was the wrong model. I had just priced up the Esslinger alloy head from the states when I spotted this one. There is a lot of work in fitting it to the block for those who don't have access to the right tools will pay a small fortune for the work to be done....But I do and I'm very happy with the look of the engine so far.

Well its been alot of coming and going for me on this project and it's not over yet. The DOHC is out and I went and saw Spanfarmer to buy his 2.3 Pinto as I still want my car to be very different and more of my own ideas. Here is the short block bolted to my W50 RA28 gearbox So anyway when I was talking to Spanfarmer he was talking about the VOLVO heads fitting on to these blocks and the next weekend I went to pick a part to get some parts for my wifes van and there was a 940 sedan there with the rght head. The cambelt was broken and that ment it was stuffed right???? Well it has 16 bent valves and I managed to track down the owners details to find out it happened when the cambelt was done and it never actually fired up (slow means less damage). So here is what I'm doing now. And this is my prototype for the injection (I have new ones being made shortly) Trina wanted injection over carbs for less maintanence and since she has been helping pull stuff off and sort stuff with me, I'm letting her make some of the desicions........ unless I happen to find a set of 50mm side draughts for a very good price The down port angle is 45 degrees on the inlet so it should sound Very Cool and rightfully cosworth. I have also found a donor car and have been getting parts that are better than mine and we are now starting to get together a very cool family project.

12a with a lumpy cam that vintage must be worth a lot know Adrian at Franklin Cam Services is a good bugger he has always done my stuff cause he is very particular. Corey

Just so you all know the only difference between the shapes of the GT40 coils is to designate the difference between the oil filled (standard shape) and resin filled (different shape) there are a shit load of different types of both. Coils are rated by two things: 1/ Voltage input and output The primary windings are the wires from your ignition and signal from your dizzy. 2/ The resistance in the primary and secondry windings. The secondry windings are the internal windings that make the charge to send to your dizzy or spark plugs (ignition system dependant) It is easy to get the wrong coil and if you have any doubt ask an auto electrican as they have books full of the info on our cars. I was sold a GT40 once to fit in my GTR Torana and it made the car catch fire due to having the wrong winding resistances. Corey

The most important thing right there^^^^