nothingsfree

Haha yeah definitely sideways, tho its pretty tight vertically, they are a really tall engine..

Badass! Was wondering what happened to this..

Nah was one from Japrace. Same deal basically.. Seems decent enough, besides Im just cutting it up. Haha

Im modifying a rx7 radiator to suit, as on a 7, both inlet and outlet are on the drivers side. On my 3s, they are both on the passenger side. I could have just bought an Altezza radiator, but the size and shape of the rx7 rad, fits the front of the old corolla models really well. By cutting off the filler neck/cap, you can just rotate the rad around, then re weld it on the bottom of the end tank. On first inspection I thought they had failed miserably at making it a dual pass, and had welded in the divider on the opposite tank, but it turns out that its actually a 4 pass radiator.. After cutting off the large brackets on the end tanks that are used for mounting, I drilled a couple of holes thru one of them, and used it as the bottom bracket, bolted to the radiator support panel.

So slap a turbo on the side of it..

Have a complete manual 2jz setup from a jza80 supra for sale if youre interested? -2jzge -w58 -Loom, ecu, flywheel, clutch etc... -$2k firm.

Never a dull moment in Woolston! Nice to meet you dude, and props on all the work on ya car, that thing is fucking sweet. Will have to return the favour, and do a road trip north once Kermit is back on the road..

So with the engine back in, I could bolt the extractors on, and see how much modifying I was going to have to do to make them work.. None! Well nearly, I just had to cut a bracket off where they merge into one, that normally bolts to the gbox. It was just in the way of my gbox mount, other than that tho, they fit surprisingly well. Because of how low the car is, I may tweak them a little, just to make sure they are tucked right up inside the chassis rails, but will deal with that later..

Sorry to hear, so very gutted..

Yes it is different. But it is easy enough to make a twin headlight front work. Best thing is to bolt on all the twin headlight panels, then you can line up the lights properly. You will need to redrill a couple of holes, and maybe slot another, but its pretty straight forward. The grill clips into holes on the buckets that hold the headlights, and the center attaches to a small bracket that bolts to the radiator support panel, so you dont have to make it fit, it will be fine..

Haha by spending too much time on the suspension setup/a big hammer. Might wind it down for a laugh, to see how low it really will go..

Sweet, and that got rid of all the tarnishing?

Cheers dude, yeah def making a bash plate. Going to run a large piece of steel from the radiator support panel, back to the gbox x member. Also going to modify the sump so it sits above the bottom of the x member..

In regards to these extractors I bought, Id like to give them a good clean up. Whats the best method for cleaning up stainless, to bring it back to new? Cheers

I held off cutting a hole in the gbox tunnel for the shifter until I got the engine and box back in, as I wanted to make sure I got it in the right spot, and didnt end up with a massive hole. Once it was in, I jacked up the back of the box till it was touching the underside of the tunnel, gave it a quick measure up and cut out whatever was in the way. Pretty stoked with how it turned out, there is no clearance issues with the tunnel, or the firewall. Infact, there is a little breathing space around everything, making it much easier to get to bolts etc if I need to take anything off. With the engine and box back in, the car is lower than I remember . The front needs to come up about 15mm for the sills to be level, which is fine, as I need the clearance under there haha. Just a shot to show how low the HSDs go. My car is at this height, with that much room to still go lower..

I finished welding in the tunnel and trimming off the excess on Sat. Then broke out the grinder and cleaned up all the edges and seams before sealing it all up. Finally the engine could go back in, it shouldnt need to come back out before I get it running.

As has been mentioned, dry ice is ya best bet. Just to add to that, Iv done a number of cars with it now, and found the best method is to divide the dry ice up into 4 or 5 plastic shopping bags, rather than just spread it all over the floor. Particularly in your case, as it means you can hang the shopping bags on the firewall to chill it, something which is pretty hard to do with loose pallets..

And this^. So keen..

Lookin forward to watchin the build. If youre set on gettin camber in the back, personally I would steer away from the Altezza. We had one up on the hoist not that long ago to do some work to, and the rear setup is nothing amazing. Iv done abit of research as I am looking at replacing the trailing arm setup in the back of my fc rx7. Id be more inclined to look at a Silvia rear subframe, as aftermarket parts and readily available and cheap. Or as Truenotch mentioned, a mx5 subframe as they are compact, and would be a breeze to mount as the mounting points on the subframe are just a flat rectangle. Not sure about the hub to hub width of a mx5 subframe, but the s13 silvia is about 1530ish. The later models are wider again. In comparison, a standard dx diff is about 1410mm. Iv been tempted to do it to the back of mine, so I could get it slammed and keep the wheels nice and tight against the guards, but I already had the T3 arms etc, so just gonna stay solid. Good luck with project, hope that might help a little..

Yeah it is, I spaced it up a little, so I think iv got bout 4-5mm room. Im going to modify the sump, prolly shorten it, and widen it, to get up just above the height of the xmember. Then going to run a big heavy bash plate from the radiator support panel, back to the gbox..

Yeah I just got the engine back in Kermit last night. With two people bouncing on the front, my sump/ crossmember bottoms out on ground . Im gonna modify the sump, and stick a filthy big sump guard from the radiator support panel back to the gbox. Do you need to wind it up to 90mm to get enough travel/ suspension arms correct.

Haha exactly, Im doing the same thing. Tempted to even go for cert with it unpainted incase I have to change anything, tho I should be sweet.

More shiny stuff! Picked up a set of Tanabe Altezza 3s extractors for a very good price. Turned up yesterday, so had a little play around to see if they will fit. Because I dont have the engine in at the mo, I cant confirm, but its going to be close, might just get away with it. The end will need modifying, but thats no biggy. Will get the engine back in the car shortly once the tunnel is finished, and then will know for sure.

Sweeet! Stoked to see progress on this thing! Are you pulling everything out for panel an paint?

Agreed, I only picked up these Tanabe ones because they were shiny, and I got them cheap. The standard ones are pretty good. Simons ae85 was run for the last couple of years on standard headers, he just spent abit of time port matching them.