KKtrips

I am genuinely humbled with my amazing friends. @Seedy Al@Goat@JasonK who all turned up this morning to help me do some stuff that my aging body just struggles to do, especially on my back (giggidy) . We did a solid 6 hours work, fitting gearbox, making brake lines, mounting fuel pump and filter plus a multitude of small shit I cannot even remember. Thank you so much to you guys for the motivation ♥♥♥, your enthusiasm, your getting shit done while I stood there and complained about my aches and pains. You have done in 1 day what would have taken me a solid 6 weeks of nights to do. For this, I am so very grateful. Love you guys and I hope your good ladies squeeze your buns and touch you in ways that I shouldn't. So now I have pretty much everything done under and outside the car that I need to get done and I move to doing the interior stuff and get as much of that in as I can before I ship it to the sparky for a rewire at the beginning of Feb. Some pics from today. Doesn't look like a lot from previous pics, but I can tell you that a metric fuck tonne got done. (2 olympic size swimming pools stacked to the top of an elephant on a double decker bus travelling to the moon to be precise) Dreamy Al.

That's a bit of a dick move, why are you wasting the time of people just trying to do their job?

Might just do that, will pull things out and scope the deal next Monday, I'll give ya a holla, big dolla.

Want to do a perk job wiring mine?

So, has anyone ever wired up a vehicle using one of these 21 circuit wiring kits? How did you find it?

Heart transplant was a success.

The body is now ready to receive it's heart. Even though I scratched the shit out of my new paint trying to install the wiper motor. What a cunt of a thing. Will have to touch it up.

"308"

Some engine pics - I stupidly ordered 8 pushrods, when I need 16, so need to get them and installed before I can finally button down the inlet manifold

There are some thoroughly hairy mopars running around without an EWP and not overheating, so it has to be either a water to air-flow issue or tuning issue. I'm leaning towards air-flow cos Clint ain't no dummy and the tuning issues should be within a range that it won't fuck with the temps, so either there isn't enough cool air passing over the rad or the water is not in the rad long enough to cool down. When you pulled t-stat out, did you leave a restrictor in place?

Just got the dimensions from the internet. Please excuse the freedom units. Once removed from the shroud, this fan is about 4 inches deep from the end of the motor to the furthest point on the front of the fan. After it is removed, you'll find that the OUTER RING is about 17.5 inches across. The actual fan blade portion diameter on this fan is 388 mm (15.27 inches)

My guess is that it is thinner than that shroud looks in the photos, but they are a bit thicker than I'd like, but only at the fan motor, however I did have to change the bolts holding my water pump on to countersunk jobbies to give me enough clearance. But I also have a dumb front crossmember that gets in the way and had to make a weird shaped fan shroud which spaced the fan blades an inch away from the radiator fins. TLDR - the fan blades and housing are not crazy thick, bu the motor is chunky, I can measure on Friday day and give you some actual measurements. They are actually a huge diameter though and if I mount it flat against my radiator, an inch of fan blade would sit above or below the radiator fins.

The fan unit look like this - all the wiring a direct positive and negative feed to the battery and a pair of wires back to a 2 stage toggle switch in dash (With my new motor I am going to wire one side to a thermo switch so stage 1 will turn on automatically and put stage 2 to an override for when I notice it getting a bit scorchy)

Joining the helpful suggestion team, whats the AFR like at idle? can you fatten it up a bit? Lean equals HOT water temps. If that is not an issue, then if you are looking for a fan that moves MUCHO air, then go to Pickapart and look at the Volvo's grab their fan, the wiring and relays. They are super simple to figure out and they have 2 speeds fucking fast, and even faster again, sounds like a fuckin Fokker Friendship taxi-ing for take off. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml

You'd be surprised how big can fit in a galv bath, I've seen entire boat trailers dipped.

They are NVU gauges - https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/gauges/ yeah thet are awesome. Glad I took the leap with them Nah staying carbied with the 304. If anything I might change to the FiTech injection setup but that is a while down the road I think. Car is getting a full require with one of the 21 circuit wiring kits, once I have the engine and all the electrical accessories in place, that's this months job, to get the electrical stuff mounted up.

I replicated the OE except for the water temp and voltage which I flipped for personal preference.

Don't worry, my progress is still considerably glacial.

At that point, I'll be relying on the rev counter.

Discussion thread here - This is like 6 months worth of progress shots, but I figured after doing a few hours today and making a couple of big steps in progress, then an update was due. All the hard parts of the sound deadening are laid. (never again) In fact,while procrastinating finishing the sound deadening on the firewall I rebuilt the heater fan, heater box, pedal box and column, then after I finished the firewall, I slipped them into place along with the ducting. (yes I spent an hour with hot soapy water and a scrubbing brush to clean all the dust and crap out of the concertinas in the ducting. DON'T JUDGE ME) Engine is now mostly assembled, needs pushrods and the inlet manifold whacked on and then it should be good to slot in the hole. The astute members of the audience will notice the gauges on top of the engine, those aren't meant to be there... The gauges took the best part of a year to finally arrive after fretting over the design, getting them made and a long wait on the freight from the USA. I pulled the trigger on a classic 80's looking design with 270 degree sweep faces. If I could change anything I would ditch the chrome bezels, but apart from that, they are perfect. Slipped them into a 3D printed dash insert that replaces the factory Commy insert and look pretty damn sweet. They have a full compliment of idiot lights, indicators etc behind the face of the speedo and tacho. They are a pretty freakin neat trick if you ask me. Gauges Video

It's all good to go, processed it through this avo, but won't go live till Monday, the plate guy had gone home by the time I finished the review.

PS - Matt, you are a fucking crazy mo-fo, the level of detail is borderline psycho and I have half the office around my desk creaming themselves looking through the pics.

Oh hello. What's this we have here...

point 3 - VCC can assist you with producing the evidence that you might need from their archives, but they are not directly involved in the decision making process. point 4 - Yes a vehicle will get a new identity if it is a scratch built, and they are registered as the year that they are completed, typically they year of final inspection, your example would probably be named a : 2021 LVV Replica Bentley Le Mans point 5 - Did you have a body that you based your design on or did you just make it up out of your head for what looked right? Perhaps you have some images of that, the internet would probably be a great source. No problems. Happy to help.

I've summarised your post into the questions and will do my best to answer as accurately as I can. This is entirely unofficial advice as there is no documented answers I can fall back on, so this can only be considered a subjective opinion at best. 1) A scratch built vehicle can be made up of any parts, as long as they are automotive parts that meet the relevant requirements. 2) The process for a car made from a pile of parts is that they are nearly always deemed to be scratch-built. It is unlikely that a car made from a collection of parts could be called a modified production vehicle. (also refer to my point about rebirthing stolen vehicles in my previous post) 3) This is a tricky one - it should replicate an existing vehicle but if they were all effectively a unique appearing vehicle, then I think there may be grounds to consider a replica vehicle built using similar construction methods and materials, however it must replicate in appearance and performance to what you would expect from a vehicle at the time. (ie: you can't make a space ship shaped body running a smallblock Chevy on a 1927 Rolls Royce chassis and say it is a Historical Replica because 1927 Rolls Royces were all unique coach built to order) 4) It's easier to explain this one with some scenarios for vehicles with identity - Replacing the body on a vehicle with like for like is a repair and is considered OE production vehicle, (example - fitting an unfucked Hilux body onto a Hilux chassis that has had the body rolled over and squashed) - Modifying the body on a vehicle is a modification that requires certification, and is considered a modified production vehicle, (example - cutting a Corolla station wagon into a ute body) - Fitting a full custom body on a vehicle makes the vehicle a scratch-built vehicle (example - fitting a fibreglass beach buggy body onto a VW beetle floorpan) Almost all vehicles without identity will fall into a scratch-built category unless they successfully apply Alt Docs and the vehicle gains an identity through that process. 5) Suitable information would be a description of the vehicle that your replica is replicating, it should include information covering the full running gear, chassis, construction methods etc alongside with as many images of the vehicle as is possible, pair the same information for your vehicle and we can make a comparison. It does not have to be a rivet for rivet identical, but if we can compare them, see a comparable silhouette, find substantially similar running gear and construction, then there is a possibility it could be accepted as a Historic Replica. Again - this is not official advice, but the best I can provide having sat in on these meetings before where these determinations have been made.