Jump to content

KKtrips

Administrators
  • Posts

    26378
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    82

Everything posted by KKtrips

  1. The body is now ready to receive it's heart. Even though I scratched the shit out of my new paint trying to install the wiper motor. What a cunt of a thing. Will have to touch it up.
  2. Some engine pics - I stupidly ordered 8 pushrods, when I need 16, so need to get them and installed before I can finally button down the inlet manifold
  3. There are some thoroughly hairy mopars running around without an EWP and not overheating, so it has to be either a water to air-flow issue or tuning issue. I'm leaning towards air-flow cos Clint ain't no dummy and the tuning issues should be within a range that it won't fuck with the temps, so either there isn't enough cool air passing over the rad or the water is not in the rad long enough to cool down. When you pulled t-stat out, did you leave a restrictor in place?
  4. Just got the dimensions from the internet. Please excuse the freedom units. Once removed from the shroud, this fan is about 4 inches deep from the end of the motor to the furthest point on the front of the fan. After it is removed, you'll find that the OUTER RING is about 17.5 inches across. The actual fan blade portion diameter on this fan is 388 mm (15.27 inches)
  5. My guess is that it is thinner than that shroud looks in the photos, but they are a bit thicker than I'd like, but only at the fan motor, however I did have to change the bolts holding my water pump on to countersunk jobbies to give me enough clearance. But I also have a dumb front crossmember that gets in the way and had to make a weird shaped fan shroud which spaced the fan blades an inch away from the radiator fins. TLDR - the fan blades and housing are not crazy thick, bu the motor is chunky, I can measure on Friday day and give you some actual measurements. They are actually a huge diameter though and if I mount it flat against my radiator, an inch of fan blade would sit above or below the radiator fins.
  6. The fan unit look like this - all the wiring a direct positive and negative feed to the battery and a pair of wires back to a 2 stage toggle switch in dash (With my new motor I am going to wire one side to a thermo switch so stage 1 will turn on automatically and put stage 2 to an override for when I notice it getting a bit scorchy)
  7. Joining the helpful suggestion team, whats the AFR like at idle? can you fatten it up a bit? Lean equals HOT water temps. If that is not an issue, then if you are looking for a fan that moves MUCHO air, then go to Pickapart and look at the Volvo's grab their fan, the wiring and relays. They are super simple to figure out and they have 2 speeds fucking fast, and even faster again, sounds like a fuckin Fokker Friendship taxi-ing for take off. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml
  8. You'd be surprised how big can fit in a galv bath, I've seen entire boat trailers dipped.
  9. They are NVU gauges - https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/gauges/ yeah thet are awesome. Glad I took the leap with them Nah staying carbied with the 304. If anything I might change to the FiTech injection setup but that is a while down the road I think. Car is getting a full require with one of the 21 circuit wiring kits, once I have the engine and all the electrical accessories in place, that's this months job, to get the electrical stuff mounted up.
  10. I replicated the OE except for the water temp and voltage which I flipped for personal preference.
  11. Don't worry, my progress is still considerably glacial.
  12. At that point, I'll be relying on the rev counter.
  13. Discussion thread here - This is like 6 months worth of progress shots, but I figured after doing a few hours today and making a couple of big steps in progress, then an update was due. All the hard parts of the sound deadening are laid. (never again) In fact,while procrastinating finishing the sound deadening on the firewall I rebuilt the heater fan, heater box, pedal box and column, then after I finished the firewall, I slipped them into place along with the ducting. (yes I spent an hour with hot soapy water and a scrubbing brush to clean all the dust and crap out of the concertinas in the ducting. DON'T JUDGE ME) Engine is now mostly assembled, needs pushrods and the inlet manifold whacked on and then it should be good to slot in the hole. The astute members of the audience will notice the gauges on top of the engine, those aren't meant to be there... The gauges took the best part of a year to finally arrive after fretting over the design, getting them made and a long wait on the freight from the USA. I pulled the trigger on a classic 80's looking design with 270 degree sweep faces. If I could change anything I would ditch the chrome bezels, but apart from that, they are perfect. Slipped them into a 3D printed dash insert that replaces the factory Commy insert and look pretty damn sweet. They have a full compliment of idiot lights, indicators etc behind the face of the speedo and tacho. They are a pretty freakin neat trick if you ask me. Gauges Video
  14. It's all good to go, processed it through this avo, but won't go live till Monday, the plate guy had gone home by the time I finished the review.
  15. PS - Matt, you are a fucking crazy mo-fo, the level of detail is borderline psycho and I have half the office around my desk creaming themselves looking through the pics.
  16. point 3 - VCC can assist you with producing the evidence that you might need from their archives, but they are not directly involved in the decision making process. point 4 - Yes a vehicle will get a new identity if it is a scratch built, and they are registered as the year that they are completed, typically they year of final inspection, your example would probably be named a : 2021 LVV Replica Bentley Le Mans point 5 - Did you have a body that you based your design on or did you just make it up out of your head for what looked right? Perhaps you have some images of that, the internet would probably be a great source. No problems. Happy to help.
  17. I've summarised your post into the questions and will do my best to answer as accurately as I can. This is entirely unofficial advice as there is no documented answers I can fall back on, so this can only be considered a subjective opinion at best. 1) A scratch built vehicle can be made up of any parts, as long as they are automotive parts that meet the relevant requirements. 2) The process for a car made from a pile of parts is that they are nearly always deemed to be scratch-built. It is unlikely that a car made from a collection of parts could be called a modified production vehicle. (also refer to my point about rebirthing stolen vehicles in my previous post) 3) This is a tricky one - it should replicate an existing vehicle but if they were all effectively a unique appearing vehicle, then I think there may be grounds to consider a replica vehicle built using similar construction methods and materials, however it must replicate in appearance and performance to what you would expect from a vehicle at the time. (ie: you can't make a space ship shaped body running a smallblock Chevy on a 1927 Rolls Royce chassis and say it is a Historical Replica because 1927 Rolls Royces were all unique coach built to order) 4) It's easier to explain this one with some scenarios for vehicles with identity - Replacing the body on a vehicle with like for like is a repair and is considered OE production vehicle, (example - fitting an unfucked Hilux body onto a Hilux chassis that has had the body rolled over and squashed) - Modifying the body on a vehicle is a modification that requires certification, and is considered a modified production vehicle, (example - cutting a Corolla station wagon into a ute body) - Fitting a full custom body on a vehicle makes the vehicle a scratch-built vehicle (example - fitting a fibreglass beach buggy body onto a VW beetle floorpan) Almost all vehicles without identity will fall into a scratch-built category unless they successfully apply Alt Docs and the vehicle gains an identity through that process. 5) Suitable information would be a description of the vehicle that your replica is replicating, it should include information covering the full running gear, chassis, construction methods etc alongside with as many images of the vehicle as is possible, pair the same information for your vehicle and we can make a comparison. It does not have to be a rivet for rivet identical, but if we can compare them, see a comparable silhouette, find substantially similar running gear and construction, then there is a possibility it could be accepted as a Historic Replica. Again - this is not official advice, but the best I can provide having sat in on these meetings before where these determinations have been made.
  18. Gidday Simon, it was me you talked to on the phone yesterday at LVVTA. Reading your recount, I think I did not fully explain a part which might help clear up a couple of the issues you are having. An important part to understand is a critical element missing for your vehicle, which does not allow it to proceed as a Modified Production Vehicle, is a lack of an identity in Landata (a record) and I suspect the vehicles that have been certified previously, were built from vehicles that had an existing identity in Landata. The Alt Docs (CA03) is a way for a vehicle without an identity in Landata (that would have previously had one but has been lost to time) to gain an identity. However if you have built the car out of a bunch of spare parts lying around and/or purchased from swap meets and/or parts made from scratch, then it is not likely to get Alt Docs approved. This is to prevent duplication of identities, for example: say there are 3 vehicle owners with 1932 Fords, all making upgrades to their vehicles and after their upgrades, one will have a spare chassis, the second has a spare engine and the third has a spare cowl and fenders. Someone cannot combine those parts with a bunch of custom made parts and/or parts from a parts catalogue and then simply register it as a 1932 Ford, as this would mean there are now 4 x 1932 Fords, where there were once 3 x 1932 Fords. Unfortunately, without an identity it will be a scratch-built vehicle and needs to meet all the requirements for a 2021 scratchbuilt vehicle, however Historic Replicas do have a few relaxations for some of the requirements. For it to be considered an Historic Replica it must be an authentic replica (not readily distinguishable from the original) of a historically existing vehicle from a period of motoring history before 1960. All other scratch-builts are Reproductions or Custom/Unique. If you feel there is sufficient justification to classify it as a Historic Replica, work with a certifier to provide the information required to Head Office and we will discuss it at our tech working group with NZTA to hopefully achieve a desirable outcome. Not necessarily relevant in your case, but it is worth noting for anyone else reading this post, is that some vehicles don't fit the box of a scratch built OR modified production vehicle, for example: you cannot build a vehicle entirely from a pile of original parts and simply declare it is a scratch-built vehicle. As this process could be abused and end up rebirthing stolen vehicles, to prevent this, there are quite a few hoops to jump through and the process is not an easy ride. Hopefully I have filled in a couple of the gaps, it's always hard to fill in all the information in a single phone call. Cheers KK (Chris)
  19. Sounds like a top bloke.
  20. This reminds me, we need to have a drunken sharn night, been a while since the last one, from memory that might have been Waiarapa 2018, when we shared the cab of a Micro truck?
  21. Another glacial update - motor is nearly done at the reconditioners, should have it back soon for reassembly In the meantime, I got all that really complicated sound deadening done around the drivers footwell. SO many shapes to get around.
×
×
  • Create New...