KKtrips

Worst turns to worst then seatbelt anchorage certification is fairly reasonable from memory. Its nothing like the $600 charge for a modification cert. I think closer to $150ish.

I've got the chippy packets, bog and a kinda similar coloured nail polish. Now I just need the time. /I fixed the door lock on that door though so that's kind of a plus...

Well I hope so. They welded the Toyota yoke onto the Commode shaft and can only presume they got them properly in phase. (the centre is a CV so no UJ's there to get out of phase) I have only done a visual check - but with an out of date eyecrometer calibration - it looked right to me. But in reality I only checked they were not 90 deg. out and went no further.

I have nothing but good words about Howat Engineering. So I shan't bag them as they have done nothing but a good job every other time I have used them and I don't recall anyone else ever saying a single bad about them.. Plus you are very limited with options in Wellington so I will put this down to a rare momentary lapse of concentration. Probably had someone ring him as he was about to tighten them.

Turns out the driveline vibration I have been stressing about since April was just finger tight centre CV bolts. Guess they've been working loose since August 2013 when I paid a decent chunk of change for a reputable driveshaft shop to rebuild, shorten and balance my driveshaft. Tempted to go back to them and kick them in the balls, but know it will achieve fuck all because its been so long and I've done several thousand Km since then. Anyhow I'm going for a bit of a drive tomorrow night to see if the vibration has disappeared at all speeds and will report back with pics.

Fuck that sucks dude. I'll certainly keep an eye out for bits coming up for sale. If you have a Facebook page then make a post and post it on the OS FB page and I'll push it as admin.

Powerglide is no ordinary 2 speed auto though...

Build Thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51003-out-of-style-always-broke-1960-vw-beetle/#entry1625139 Sweet patina man. Whats the plans?

It's not the strength that I would be concerned with. It's getting parts that is the problem.

Also give Paul Walbran a ring - 09-817 8194 see if he has any leads on an SD1 bellhousing Alternatively ring Ross Calgher a ring and ask the same - 06-754 6582

This is the obvious solution... http://dellowconversions.com.au/product/rover-v8-3-5l-4l-4-6l-to-powerglide-bellhousing-2/ Also if it helps that bellhousing covers the 3.5, 4.0 and 4.6 RV8 motors so should be the same in factory bellhousings too.

Those bits from Ashvegas prove to be any good?

You'll probably need tech approval for that but I've seen inboard brake lines etc. before. For simplicity sake because you'll need a lot more of room for all that then can you delete the booster and run bigger master or more leverage? Or run a remote booster?

EGT's are EGT's - the difference is where the source of the heat is. Maybe my terminology is less than perfect. By internal I meant the source of the heat is created inside the combustion chamber and external meant the source of the heat is created outside the combustion chamber (namely - inside the exhaust port and downpipe) I think I adequately explained HOW those high EGT's are created in my post. To me 720 is a fairly average EGT - if you want to make power then the by product is high EGT so I'm not afraid of them as long as my motor doesn't constantly sit in the high end of the spectrum.. 900 would be my safe (soft) limit and 1200 is my absolute limit that I would rarely want to encounter and even then only for brief encounters. Much like I hate seeing the needle touch the red on my water temp gauge but it happens occasionally. 900c EGT is the equivalent of just above half way on the cooling temp gauge and I have no issues veering into that zone every now and then if I'm giving it a hard time. However I have junked at least one diesel motor by running excessive boost and fuel so maybe I push the limit a bit hard. But by fuck it was a fun and fast car. If you think I am talking bullshit then you don't have to listen to what I have to say nor do anything of what I say - you have a choice.

It depends on if your high EGTs are the result of internal or external combustion. High internal EGTs are a result of heaps of power being made but the engine is loaded up so is too slow to turn that energy into force and cannot be utilised so instead it is turned into heat. High external EGTs are a result of diesel fuel still burning as it exits the motor because diesel is a notoriously slow burning fuel or sometimes it is unburnt diesel being ignited by a hot spot in the exhaust. Internal is hard on engine components like pistons, blocks and heads and can be quickly catastrophic. External is hard on exhaust valves and turbos, generally it fucks things a little slower but you can still junk them in a long slog up a big hill. Neither type is all that good and it is hard to determine from just a gauge whether a high EGT is the result of an internal or external process but safe to say that it is a sure sign of bad shit happening. My call is get an EGT gauge and keep it below 1200, preferably below 900.

If you dont want to get the right pump then you can go the rough and ready mode. Wind the full load adjustment screw in 1 full turn and go for a low speed, high load test to see if it improves things, then wind in another turn and test then another turn and test etc... until it starts chooching too much black smoke and then wind it back a turn. If you are concerned at all about this method of adjustment being a bit too rough as guts for your needs then get an EGT gauge and use that to monitor your engine for excessive exhaust temp which will be a sure sign of killing the engine.

Non turbo version Turbo version with the boost compensator (the highest part in the picture)

Turbo pumps will have an aneroid boost modulator which will increase the fuel volume as the boost pressure rises. Without it you are just increasing the wind without an appropriate fuel adjustment. You could get by without a boost compensator by cranking in a fuckload of fuel in to start with but then it will be super rich off boost and chooch heaps of black smoke.

My middle name is danger...

I'm Spartacus. /3 days late to the party.

I thought I could avoid the temptation to pun the night away, but it appears I can knot.

Clint, dahling. If I go from a 2 piece driveshaft to a 1 piece do I need a recert or would I get by with dropping by the certifier so they can get some new pictures and they can sight the receipt for making/balancing? I expect I would have to ditch one driveshaft loop to keep the range of movement.