KKtrips

Cool - just checking if I should bring ham or not.

I'm gutted Rog. Naughty Rog. PS - where are the toilets in relation to the proposed campsite?

Agreed!

Yup bolt in - you can leave the 6 cyl diff in the car - its plenty strong enough unless you are doing skids erryday. The centre CV is a different size on VN onwards and the diff pinion is a different type also. But you may be lucky and be able to slot the factory 6 cylinder driveshaft into the bum of the later model transmission but I'm not 100%. Either way if you are getting the correct yoke with that 304 I posted then you can mix and match bits. Or at worst you may have to use the original 6 cyl driveshaft with the correct front yoke and get a new shaft made up.

Something like this is a fairly good deal - plus you can carby these motors for about a grand. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/holden/engines/auction-993221107.htm

Spent a fair bit of time looking on trademe. Finding all kinds of bits took a lot of time. I only bought the first pair of engine mounts from Aussie. Everything else was locally bought or made. My advice if you aren't going to buy a car that is already done is to get a motor that is as complete as you can get with the correct Commy sump, engine mounts, starter motor, alternator etc. Probably even try to get it with the gearbox too.

Since then I've bought another carb, rebuilt the gearbox, another set of wheels and tyres... so well over $12K now. I can't remember if the $10K included cert or not.

Here is my list up to end of 2013... Some of it you may not encounter but then again you may have more stuff you need instead. This adds up to ~$10K so far. Motor $350 Engine mounts $230 Engine mounts pt2 $70 Engine mounts pt2 $110 Starter motor $320 Cam and Lifters $180 Water pump $50 Oils and filters (run in) $120 Hoses $120 Radiator $400 Oil and filter $160 Electric Fan $30 Air filter $60 Carb overhaul $100 Inlet Manifold Repairs $120 Fuel pump $120 Exhaust Headers $380 Muffler and Diff Pipe $340 Bell housing $520 Flywheel and Bolts $290 Clutch $600 Release bearing $90 Gearbox $350 Drive shaft x 2 $450 Drive shaft Loops $150 Rear Trailing Arms $120 Front Suspension Bushes $250 Diff $350 Wheels $150 Spare wheel $40 4 x Tyres $200 Front brakes $400 Master cylinder $50 Cross member $60 Throttle bracket $60 Fan Shroud $250 PCV valve and fan belt $50 Fuel check valve $30 Degree Tape $15 Bonnet Pins $50 Alternator bracket $200 HT Lead Set $80 Gasket sets $150 Gasket goo etc $40 Wiring miscellany $100 Steel miscellany $50 Nuts and bolts $150 Speedometers bulbs $20 Exhaust and tuning $1,100 Speedo cable $50 Powder coating $40 Tyre Swaps $40 Make Batt. Leads $30

First thing is to decide what you want to run for a gearbox, manual or auto? I'll see if I can find my list I made of all the stuff I bought when putting it together and what it cost. Its not complete but it'll help you get a start.

308 bolts straight up to the 202 frame. There is one extra brace to the 308 but it is nothing. V6,RB and 4 cyl K-frames are different. Power steer and non power steer Kframes are different. But only in the width for the steering rack mounting bolts they are about 5mm different and you could probably get away with filing the holes I cut my mounts off and rewelded them back on. Chev 350 requires spacing the crossmember about 10-20mm away from the body which is not a bad thing. It only really effects the ability to lower the car to a nice height, you can get the same height but the resulting angle of the bottom arms would give you nasty bumpsteer. Gearbox - 308 blocks came with Turbo Hydra and Trimatic bellhousing castings. You can get adapters easy enough to switch between them and most aftermarket bellhousings have both options. All depends on what you want to run. I am running a W55 with a Castlemaine Rod Shop bellhousing and it has both options so can run which ever block I want. Diff - VN and newer live axles are a fair bit wider than VH and older and VL is in between but they all fit you just need to be careful with your rim choice. A VL turbo diff is the ultimate but SPENDY! Also Wagon and Sedan diffs are different but only where the shocks mount so you can cut them off and reweld them on if you are handy with a jig and welder. Now don't get me wrong - a conversion is expensive - my motor cost me less than $500 and my conversion once "done" was tapping on the door of $10K. I didn't rebuild the motor even and that is just the conversion - buying the car and all the other stuff I have done to it isn't even factored into the equation. So if I was to do it again I would find one already "done" (or a factory one) and buy that then spend the extra money on tidying it up from there.

Cheers Cam you salty seaman for organising this shit. Was a great chance to get out of the house on a Sunday. Sorry about your screen Wagmeister. Let me know if you get any trouble with finding one and I'll get my feelers out.

I think he is trying to impress the ladies... family.

I accidentally opened your build thread Neal.

Diesel mate - Neal Neal one wheel peel has the V8 for the weekend.

If so - what time we thinking of meeting? Weighstation at 9?

Good work on the getting people involved with something outside the square 2N Glen.

Registering interest - will see if Shaz is in any state to travel on bumpy roads.

Worst turns to worst then seatbelt anchorage certification is fairly reasonable from memory. Its nothing like the $600 charge for a modification cert. I think closer to $150ish.

I've got the chippy packets, bog and a kinda similar coloured nail polish. Now I just need the time. /I fixed the door lock on that door though so that's kind of a plus...

Well I hope so. They welded the Toyota yoke onto the Commode shaft and can only presume they got them properly in phase. (the centre is a CV so no UJ's there to get out of phase) I have only done a visual check - but with an out of date eyecrometer calibration - it looked right to me. But in reality I only checked they were not 90 deg. out and went no further.

I have nothing but good words about Howat Engineering. So I shan't bag them as they have done nothing but a good job every other time I have used them and I don't recall anyone else ever saying a single bad about them.. Plus you are very limited with options in Wellington so I will put this down to a rare momentary lapse of concentration. Probably had someone ring him as he was about to tighten them.

Turns out the driveline vibration I have been stressing about since April was just finger tight centre CV bolts. Guess they've been working loose since August 2013 when I paid a decent chunk of change for a reputable driveshaft shop to rebuild, shorten and balance my driveshaft. Tempted to go back to them and kick them in the balls, but know it will achieve fuck all because its been so long and I've done several thousand Km since then. Anyhow I'm going for a bit of a drive tomorrow night to see if the vibration has disappeared at all speeds and will report back with pics.

Fuck that sucks dude. I'll certainly keep an eye out for bits coming up for sale. If you have a Facebook page then make a post and post it on the OS FB page and I'll push it as admin.

Powerglide is no ordinary 2 speed auto though...

Build Thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51003-out-of-style-always-broke-1960-vw-beetle/#entry1625139 Sweet patina man. Whats the plans?