KKtrips

Word!

Dd you say you had it certed in Rotorua?? When do you bring it to Wellington? Wanna check this bad ass ride out...

Looking mean as now - yoy may even qualify enough to join our car gang.. haha just got to make sure you drink enough piss.. You got cert I gather now? and How is them brakes feeling?

I would fit them yourself - seriously an easy job on a 2L Pinto.. then drive it in unmuffled (fun) to pitstop/midas to have them make a new exhaust system from the tail of the extractors back - Make sure they make the exhaust in 2 sections to make it removeable Or you may be able to buy a ready made big bore exhaust from chase exhausts in the hutt and in that case it would be easy to fit yourself providing you have tools and a work area.

you can get those Atlas whitewalls (flappers) from Magoos in Masterton..

if you are using a master cylinder designed for 2 x single piston callipers (front wheels) and 2 wheel cylinders (rear wheels) but using it with 4 piston callipers, the sheer volume of brake fluid you will have to move to get the pistons to clamp will be substansially more - as explained in a diagram I cranked up for you. Increasing the overall caliper piston area will increase braking power but you will have to push the brake pedal further towards the floor to achieve braking - it will feel spongy but will pump up to a certain extent which sounds like what symptoms you are describing. Increasing the master cylinder bore size will decrease braking power while reducing brake pedal travel and make a firmer pedal Decreasing the master cylinder bore size will increase braking power but you will pay with longer brake pedal travel and a softer feeling pedal My recommendation is you go for a tandem master cylinder. I am not sure of this but I believe one with 2 sizes - larger one for the rear brake circuit and a smaller one for the front could be the go Or possibly a master cyl of the same size bore front and rear with a brake proportioning valve. Uncle Jake may even know of the top of his noggin the correct car (make and model) to obtain a master cylinder from to near bolt in for the ol Snort-inas..

The complicated version could be the master cylinder is too small and the tiny amount that each piston moves when you multiply by 8 front pistons as opposed to the factory single sliding callipers (or is it twin on a Mk2??) would increase your pedal travel - a bigger piston would increase the required braking effort but increase the volume shifted and reduce the pedal travel. Could be as simple as air in the system or badly adjusted rear brakes or sticking caliper seals - causing the piston to return too far and having to be pumped out again. I would try clamping off each brake hose successively and see if you can trace which wheel it is or at least whether it is front or rear. Then come back to me..

Mine does the same thing - and its a very similar one - kinda weird - I think maybe cos they are an inductive type tach rather than a plain feed like normal that they need something special done.. if you find a cure - fill me in please and v.v.

If I was to cut and weld anything - I would weld a longer section into the threaded rack end as opposed to a cast tie rod end.. But thats just me..

IMHO - if you have a hi volume oil pump you should not be getting 100psi - if you are, you have WAY too much volume or blocked oil galleries, anything over 80 will start to overpressurize the bearings and cause the surface to erode away.. I am NOT an engine builder but this is a general rule I have always worked to.. My general rule is oil pressure should be 60psi when hot and never more than 80psi when cold. PS - there is no such thing as a high pressure oil pump - it is the size of the oil galleries that determine your oil pressure. It is a high volume oil pump you talking about.. ie - LOTS of pressure becasue of the flow restriction and the volume trying to get up there.. Think something like - Hi Volume = trying to squeeze a whole salami up the eye of your pee-pee nuff said

get some 87-89 323/laser or 87-97 323/laser wagon rims - chuck on some pick a part 155-13 or 165-70-13 tyres with an hours work you can fit them no problems. It cost me about $68 for 4 rims and 4 x half worn tyres. I had the tyres removed, I sanded and painted all the rims for about $25, then had them fitted and balanced for $32 - all up cost for a bangin set of rims and worn tyres $125!! Priceless!!

A bloody beautiful set of gold centre simmons would look just peachy!!

hjaving trouble finding info but would like to know more. It did have a v6 capri engine in it. HE4619 was the plates if you could dig up more? It was a couple haircuts ago but I think the guys name was Gavin (He might have been a ginga?? and he worked at U-Save spares on Tacy St in Kilbirnie, It does seem to ring true it had a fairly rad V6 in it, (memory made me think it was a docile V8 cos it wasnt wildly fast) it was kinda metallic blue and the guy use to do some pretty scary things in it.. The other thing I sort of remember was it had about a zillion gauges in the centre console - and it was really gnarly on pedalspace - the clutch and brake pedals were nearly on top of each other. Other than that I am a little stuck - ol Unka Jakey Pants might remember the car also - I guess he was into weird little Fords at the time the car was zinging around Wellington - he might have still had his Heavy Metal hairdo then too.. The guy who would know a lot more would be Ian (AKA Kaos) who works out at either NZ Car parts or Partsworld in Porirua.. he used to work at U-Save when that beast was around - But I dont think Kaos is on this website..

I think I remember that car in Wellington a few years back - it was a blue colour and from memory it had either a gnarly v6 or a docile v8 in it.. Do you know any history?

The best way to teach Kelford a lesson - Go Rota Bro!! try and get him to sell you a cam grind for that puppy.. it'll take AGES to get it

I can promise you can go as wide as what I got - you cannot go any wider without cutting or serious body mods - mine involved using a log splitter on the front guards to pull them outwards a little - just a gentle persuasion. The rears are a bit more involved but just a cutoff wheel on a grinder - cut a notch about every 2 inches around the inside lip of your wheelarch then hammer them flat.. does a sweet job!! (also tyres no wider than 165/70/13 else you have tyre rubbage dramas)

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Much better looking now!! It looks like a 4WD in the before photos

I have remove countless of these on japa lasers/323's - You need a sharp centre punch. Punch a starting divot into it - then using the punch as a drift, tap it firmly counterclockwise it will undo slowly - getting faster as it loosens. Then do the other one.. Locksmith should have a good idea how to do it if you dont. To put it back on you will need to buy replacement torque to yield bolts.. just tighten it to a nice snug tightness - then back it off a quarter turn sharply and the bolt head will snap off as it is meant to - or you can just leave the head on there for next time you loose your keys, if you undo it carefully the head won't snap off.

Want a whole new suspension set up then lol? have it free if your prepared to get the bastard out yerself before i scrap metal it.. . When are you scrapping it? I normally don't turn down spares.. got plenty of em at the mo. But more is always good.. If you were closer than the Mighty Wai I could be very keen to strip it. But its a long way for stuff I most probably already have a lot of... Any pics of your Morange all slammed yet? PS - I have found you can safely slam them to 2 "man" fingers width distance between the top of the front wheels and the wheelarch - so for those that need metric measurements, that is about 3 "woman" fingers..

because of a stupid bet..

When ya ride em low, and take it off road, sometimes shit happens and shit happened - like ya say though - someone sneezed on it and she moved sweet..

Nope - thats a lie.. made up by a real assssshole!

Corolla - ah that was Patrick Pull a Phat Trick's car - he sold it since - its got a 4age with twin sidies on it.. and its matt black not green.. Its sweet ride with the mods, it rides very well and can corner like a freakin go kart.. Just its got a small leak in the left hand side so I have to pump up the suspension once every couple months to stop it hitting the bump stops.

foreshore!! more pics will go up after the next cruise (new years)