fishtailfred

most of the time, sure, but sometimes you let go of arguing for the right answer and instead argue against the arsehole that you don't like just for sport. It's those times that you aren't really "on the ball" That's awesome forced "ran sweet" and "tuned right" are very different things though mate My ute ran sweet, but to call it "tuned right" would be an utter and total lie, in fact, the half arsed 1 hour tune we gave it at 2am so that we could play with it is about as far from "tuned right" as any engine on EFI every has been! It's truly bloody awful! I didn't, don't, won't, wouldn't, and wouldn't want to 2 years ago I argued with zep and alfalfa about carb + boost, but they insisted that it would be sweet bro. Now he has a Link. For good reasons. Still, provided you can watch the AFR and compensate for it with retard or advance where too rich or too lean, no worries short term. Fred.

could it be bad positive feed to the injectors? (ecu supplies ground signal) or resistor box being used with high z injectors?

^^^ what he said. Quoted for truth. However, OEM ones often don't flow enough with a BIG pump. I have a china one and the only down side is it doesn't hold pressure without the pump... = slightly harder starting when hot theoretically. Doesn't mean much unless you know the regulator is good. This may be a dumb question, but it DOES have a regulator doesn't it? If so, what type? If not OEM, where is the adjustment set to? If not, there is your problem

Also, for those of you guys doing it now, if any have ms2 then ensure you buffer the outputs to ignitors etc with a transistor or something. use a 1.6k resistor from the processor port. If you are unlucky enough to have been shipped a vb921 in your kit, throw it away and get something better, they are utter junk. A 1.6k resistor will NOT drive the IGBT into saturation properly and lower values risk damage to the CPU. This is not the case with MS1. For ms1 you should use 330 ohm resistors to buffer the cpu output. ms1 pins can push 25ma each, ms2 pins are 25ma per 8 = 4ma each = 1.6k resistor inline. Fred.

Amen. As for saying a dizzy setup a particular way for 7psi will be sweet on 15psi or 3psi .... ummmm NO. I would have thought that it is obvious that if you need 10btdc for 15psi then you are probably going to want 20btdc at 7psi and 30btdc at 3psi. You called? MS2 ignition is better than MS1 ignition because it is FAR more accurate. If you want to skimp and get ms1, do go edis because the spark accuracy is a lot better. With MS2 edis is redundant because the ignition is so good in the first place. given that you need to buy and import that edis system though... it just doesn't make sesnse. plus, no spark cut with edis which with a carb is REALLY important!! (can't have rev limiter without one) And to those that say carbys suck for turbo... correct, but : 1) a GOOD carby guy could set it up sweet 2) if 1) then it will be OK. 3) with wideband he can monitor AFR and KNOW how good his carby guy is and/or see that he needs to change to efi asap. wideband is essential on any modified/new setup anyway, and should be standard on any boosted car as a gauge. As I see it, ms2 + v3.0 + ms2extra + lc1 or jaw = FTW Fred. ps, it's funny that it's the same dudes arguing again Good to see vvvvv on the ball this time

I second third or fourth the mintex compound votes. I daily drove m1166 for ages and fucking loved it. The made grinding sounds when cold and unbedded but still worked at any temperature and stop amazingly always without fail. I didn't get good life out of them though, but I am a mad cunt... 5k per front pads and 20k per front rotor with rears lasting much longer. That's mostly road use, but driven much like on the track half the time... I also thought I'd add this fine piece of art : Needless to say I have no respect for either the products or the business. I had extremely poor service (along the lines of "you need these gold plated slotted wank factor rotors or your balls will undrop and you'll grow tits" sort of fucking bullshit sales pitch aimed at ignorant pricks with overly thick wallets) from ebc in newmarket... I got my mintex made up through BNT on trade. Racebrakes does them too, but are more expensive. Fred.

Car's looking lovely mate, congrats on finally getting it up and going!

Good man. Absolutely!!

ROFL @ the Super Cheap SupaTools under the very un-cheap car

No one has actually said exactly why it won't make a lick of difference so far, though vvvvega hinted at it with his comment. The paint that you apply for stealth is only on the front of the fins and tubes/bars IE, the majority of the cooling does not happen on the front, it happens in the middle purely through conduction. The reflective and absorbent comments all come down to environmental factors. If your engine bay had a radiator bar heater glowing red next to the intake, silver would be best, if it has a cold inner guard, matt black best, BUT, only assuming there is no airflow to take advantage of the conductive aspect. Black anodising would be a good choice as it's nice and thin. Paint the front of it if you wish. If you don't dip it in paint and block the fins/insulate it you'll be sweet. Fred.

I told pies this earlier, they don't bloody have any wires in them, they are too old for that!

It's called maintenance and not abusing it. IE he'll just make sure it doesn't pop.

I saw all your replies, so I sent a PM to let him know where the thread was : That makes the interior all the more amazing, I wonder what history it has behind it. Fred.

Sweet VW Which way were you heading as you passed this : North or south Keen to check it out one day. Had my first ride in an aircooler in about 10 years in Holland the other week, felt great! Fred.

WOW, beautiful car! Very nice indeed. viewtopic.php?f=17&t=14641 Fred.

Petrol is pretty bad, but paint thinners... is worse. my girl was bloody awesome and had the hose in my eyes/face before I could say "get the hose". Bloody hurt a lot.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=ri ... tors&meta= Third link : http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.htm In other words, it's cheaper than a standalone. Fred.

Good posts nismo.capri! The main point is that the vast majority of pumps do NOT flow well at very high pressures which an RR WILL generate. He may shoot himself in the foot if he wishes, but he should just size his parts appropriately... How much power, how many litres, how much boost, how many rpm, what sized injectors, which pumps are you planning on using? Just design a good fuel system one way or another and leave RR regs out of it. They are a hack for OEM ecu use. Fred.

You are right, it won't stall under most conditions, but it's flow will be heavily reduced. In the event that you have a batch fire system it WILL stall if no injector is open at some given time and pressure has been pushed up too high. Same goes if you have sufficient pressure and sequential injection with short pulsewidths that don't overlap. Not good for the pump to be stopping and starting like that... Also, do you really expect your injectors to open predictably at 75psi tip cross pressure? I wouldnt. At the VERY LEAST they are opening a LOT slower quite possibly reducing fuel flow overall because of the linear rate of flow reduction with opening time and the non linear rate of flow increase with pressure. Obviously some higher pressure will net gains, but if you have a standalone you are just shooting your foot to use rising rate. sure, run 60psi base pressure to get a little more flow from the injectors, but don't use rising rate...

Congrats on getting it running

Injector lock, pump stall, reduced pump flow due to excess pressure etc. If you are pushing 25 with base of 50 and use a 1:2 your pump has to flow full engine fuel demand at 100psi. Only the 044 can manage that, all the other pumps suck balls at high pressure. http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=47 pump flow pics are in there. Worst though : difficulty and unpredictability of fuel flow will probably make tuning a bitch. Fred.

Like vvega said, you get 1psi boost, you get base pressure + 1psi of fuel pressure and the difference across the tip of the injector is always constant at 40 - 45psi (depending on which manufacturer). So at 25psi with base of 50 and normal 1:1 non rising rate you get 75psi of rail to atmo pressure and 50psi difference across the injector. Conversely if you have "10psi vacuum" in your inlet at idle, you get 40 in the rail relative to the world, but still 50 across the injector. Let me quote something someone just said about rising rate totally independently of this discussion : First part is sarcastic! : Fred.

Ignoring most of what lies between this post and your quote : Excellent, except wtf is a rising rate regulator doing within 100 feet of an engine??? Are you going to all this trouble and then hacking your fuel supply? Fixed rate of 1:1 and engine management of your choice is the way to go. Dampers are a good thing to have, but not critical. I kept mine because I'm fussy. Many throw them away and suffer no ill consequences. Fred.

Fuel pressure variation is an issue, but I would say no more on a parallel setup than a normal inline one. OEMs install fuel pressure dampers to smooth these out (like a shock in your suspension or capacitor in a circuit). If your setup has one use it, if you can retro fit so that there is one on each rail, all the better. In fairness to vvvvvv I understand eddy current to mean in flow of water as well as electricity too. I don't think it's a real issue specific to parallel feeds though. Fred.

Yeah, the fuel will boil away at a stop, and overheat while running too (recircing the same heated fuel repeatedly) Even better than suggested is putting a Y before and after so the pump feeds one Y that feeds both rails at one end and they exit into another Y which goes to the reg and then back to the tank. Fred.