cletus

yes, vehicle mods should match what the plate says it has on it for wof

Bike in the van ready to go.

Well the fuel usage is better. Worked out to be 13.8l/100km now. Also it ran it's best time at the drags with this engine, 14.2@94mph It still has a problem which only shows up at the drags, which i avoided by shifting at 5k. If i rev it any harder it gets the splutters . I thought it was fuel supply issues but now I think the lifters are pumping up . When I put it together the block was decked 40 thou plus the heads had a little skim. I took a punt on the stock pushrods still working, but they are longer than ideal. I would also like to get a distributor with a vac advance back on it to help with economy some more Here's a pic of a skid I stole from the drag day thread, just so I'm not a boring fuel efficiency nerd

Depends what it is. If something was certed, and that has not been modified any other way since, and the re cert was for a different aspect of the car, then the previously certified bits don't have to be changed to meet the rules of today. However if something shouldn't have been certified the first time, we have to fail it. Example Little Johnny has a cefiro certed for adjustable suspension, an rfb20det and camouflage door cards. Johnnys 20det got a case of the nungers after racing his mates s14 so he put a 25det from a honestly not stolen r33 that his mate jayden got off Facebook marketplace. If we do a cert check for Johnny and his suspension is all the same as the previous cert plate, but it has a little bit too much camber, because it was certed prior to that being a requirement, then we don't have to fail it, or the camo door cards. We just have to check the engine. However little Johnny has cut and welded his steering arms shorter with his uncles gasless mig for more hectic drifts . Johnny claims it was like that last time it was certed. This was never allowed so that would have to be failed, even if the previous cert covered it.

LVVTA is having a Christmas sale on construction manuals $77 for the online version.

If it has dumb wheels when it gets certified, cert plate will state 'dumb wheels fr+r' Have to cover all mods present on the vehicle at time of inspection

If it is all complete from a donor and you can prove it is the correct shaft, you don't need to fit loops. https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf Exclusions/notes at bottom

Have a good look at the chassis where the steering box bolts on, have seen a couple rust/crack there

If it meets this , yep. https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

Might be different at testing stations? It is recorded on Landata. All the people referred to me for plate removal have been to vinz/aa/vtnz etc

Not currently, but it's in the works apparently. Knowing what the standard height was , is one of the issues they are working on.

It had a reasonable amount of soot in the intake when I removed the throttle body which seems like a yuck thing for it to breathe in. It does idle slower now as well. This is interesting reading on the subject https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation

so anyone with a deez. you should get rid of the EGR on it van went from 9.5l/100 to 7l/100 by blocking it off.

I wouldn't trust a nolathane one either One Nats at taupo, we had to fix cazzas escort nolathane 'rag joint' with a bunch of cable ties, it had a steel safety cage thing around it so it still worked, just got a lot of slop in it when it split

is there a change in shaft angle at that joint? could you make a solid alloy one?

I think I spent $1500 ish on the short block, that was boring, crank polish, balance, deck and clean, resize rods, fit cam bearings. from memory that rebuild cost around 5k all up, it was meant to be re ring and paint it but that didn't work out.... the heads needed a going over as well

cant remember exactly but pretty close to zero I think

After I got the block decked 40 thou in my vg, the intake manifold didn't fit with gaskets, but it was spot on with no gaskets. Grey goo around the water ports, and hylomar blue around the intake ports- no problems in 3?? years

You can. Page 14 in here has the requirements https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf One of the requirements seems to be it has to be an automatic for some reason? The only one ive seen that operates the cable are aftermarket units that look like a linear actuator , otherwise the oe ones I've ever seen have been in the caliper. That's not to say they don't exist, just I haven't seen one

I could hear you nangin up greenmount drive yesterday!

Your hilux is red, right? I'm pretty sure the workshop manual says that part can be deleted if it's a red one. I hope you said something like 'Four hundred and sixty fookin quid mate, are ye having a fookin laff? '

no, cable should be outside the loop

probably need a pic to try and understand this better

No not required, unless you are using spacers.

The auto to manual part doesn't need cert if it's all factory parts and bolts in But, A modified or non original brake pedal does, so if it's had a manual brake pedal fitted or the pedal pad cut down , yes it should have a cert