cletus

yes if you follow the requirements in here airbags https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Frontal_Impact.pdf abs removal https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf

exhaust cert is a completely separate process, to regular cert for everything else as you describe, book it in, get checked, pass or fail from my experience when I was doing noise certs/testing we charged $50 if it failed, and $250 if it passed, that included the sticker and a certificate, which we have to put the car on a hoist and measure/sketch the whole exhaust system, check for leaks, make sure it is secured correctly, etc. as far as I know now, most of the guys doing noise certs charge $300+ whether it passes or fails ported rotaries are probably the worst to get legal of everything for a couple of reasons. the whole time I was doing testing I can only remember 2 ported n/a rotaries that had legitimate exhausts that passed without some sort of "temporary" baffle or something to shut it up for the cert. you don't have to get stickered for noise to get a noise cert, anyone can get it done any time, and a wof inspector can ask for it if they think its louder than factory. I suspect there will be a lot more noise certs being asked for now that NZTA is clamping down on wof inspectors when the noise testing thing came in, it was quite common, id get a lot of calls about it, over the years it has died off. sometimes ill get a few calls on a Monday about it because the cops have had a weekend of handing out stickers baffles can be removeable, theres nothing saying it cant be, the only rule around that is the exhaust must be designed so it requires tools to change things

Is that hub for a gy6, ie a 125? Or a qmb139? Or are they the same hub for both?

Is it going to be slammed enough with a straight axle?

Any of those would be ok, I used big rivets once

P clip works well

Yeah its quite funny to drive something powerful on snow tyres, they are shit

Not off the top of my head sorry There are pre approved ones listed on the lvvta website which don't require design approval ie heidts, rods by reid Then there are a bunch of American ones some of which are pretty good, but need design approval - not difficult to do, but if there are things that don't meet our requirements then you may have to change stuff - this can sometimes mean making new arms correct size, re welding things If it was me I'd look at one of the pre approved ones, even if they are a bit more expensive, to start with it can work out the same cost or cheaper Have done US trucks with both heidts and JR front ends , and with chassis mods to suit, can make for a truck that handles really well If you are not after a big improvement in handling, it's probably not worth spending the $$ over setting up your stock suspension well

if you can get a heat shield in between the mount and the exhaust, with an air gap between both parts, then that would be ok, but you might be better off moving the mount to give yourself more room for a better flowing exhaust it surprises me how often 1uz conversions have a fair amount of effort, $ and time spent on them, but when it comes to the exhaust, more often than not they end up with a stock manifold, or some sort of log manifold because its easier. they go so much better with even a basic set of headers

sweet! looks good

Hah Went to go for a ride today cause sunshine Scoot no go. No spark. About 2 hrs later found a shitty connection at the cdi unit Ah well at least I learned some stuff about vespas

Not 100% sure yet but probably exhaust, wheels, paint, might do some engine mods, can get fancy suspension so might do that, smaller front guard Some dual purpose tyres might be a good idea for exploring

Probably because it would be a large amount of mucking around to get copies of the paperwork which would serve no purpose for the owner, the cert paperwork doesn't mean anything on its own to anyone but the certifier and lvvta In 12 years I've only had one person ask to see the paperwork for a car I certified and it was a wof guy who wanted to know every single modification to the engine on an rx7 so he could make sure it was the same as when I fitted the cert plate 2 days earlier. We don't list every single modification as its not necessary, so getting a copy of paperwork isn't going to make a difference

Decided I needed a bike with a bigger engine, so I bought myself a Christmas present today, picked it up then rode around in the rain trying to find a testing station with an inspector that did bikes Passed wof no problem, got home and removed the dumb massive windscreen thing , my 7yo called it a 'nerd bike' It's a 1997 piaggio /vespa px150 . 4 speed box which is quite odd to use.

often if there isn't enough room in the relevant part of the plate they will put further info in the "exemptions" part, so it doesn't have an exemption for those things, in that case its just another box to put more info in. cars that have a full cage will have 'authority card required" in that box, hot rods with no guards will have "nzhra fender exemption required", etc

not that I can remember, done a couple of RRS kits in falcons, otherwise most people seem to go for lowered springs/ good shocks and that's it

Also pays to check the upper ball joint on slammed falcons, especially when the bumpstop is shortened. Often they run out of travel and the joint binds, some aftermarket ones are particularly bad. Shelby drop mod makes it worse and also gives more bump steer on the ones I've checked

I put a set of headers with similar blue paint (pacemaker?) on a previous car I had, taking no care to avoid scratches thinking the blue paint would burn off as soon as I started it Paint stayed on for as long as I owned it complete with rough guy scratches

Yes I think that would be fine if there is plenty of material left around the new taper

Would have to talk to the certifier who is going to do the job

I think the legal answer is yes it would need re certification if the power is increased by 50% If it was certed with a completely standard 302 then the plate will say 'ford' under engine make. But If the engine was modified, it will say 'ford mod' If you put a modified engine in, and the plate says 'mod' and the induction matches, ie still carburettor if that's what it was certified with originally then you would probably get away with it because the plate would be the same even if you got it re certed

yes if the overall diameter is similar, no rub etc

no, offset is not put on the plate.

sometimes. depends on the manufacturer

yes, if they fall within the wof threshold rules yes yes if they are similar ish sizes, ie you wouldn't be able to cert a set of 13x7 and 20x8