cletus

Bicknell autosport engineering in east tamaki, they do some pretty interesting stuff. I'm not actually sure if he did it or gets it done somewhere else, I just dropped off an old bit of fuel pipe I'd bent into the shape i needed

Do you mean changing the master cylinder size? Or just replacing a worn one for a new one? I think the intention is to prevent people swapping parts that there may be differences between manual and auto spec which might be a safety issue that doesnt get picked up by a wof inspection

The modification threshold got updated, new or different info is in yellow https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

Yes will need cert for 2 potential reasons, 1. Car needs to match what the cert plate says If it didn't have a cert already, 2. Threshold says it's ok to swap auto to manwell, if you use optional oe parts....the kicker is if you change to a manual brake pedal or modify the oe pedal, that needs cert

Archers springs in takanini for leaf spring upgrades

I'll probably get it as close as I can myself then dyno to finish it properly Finding someone who wants to do it or knows how might be a bit of a challenge but that's later on clints problem

One side done, got some 25x4 tube bent, 3mm plates on the chassis rail and glued in

You could do something like this, the main thing is you are trying to get it close enough rather than maximum precision. Another way is you could roughly figure it out if you can see where the pivot points of the upper and lower ball joints are. The thing you are trying to avoid is welding it in with, for example, 3 degrees of negative caster , when it should be aligned at 3degrees positive...which would mean you would need 6 degrees of correction to get it right= problems I mentioned earlier

Just a tip before you weld on the brackets for that front end- make sure the caster is in the ballpark of where it needs to be. A lot of people get caught out by welding the beam in flat, or where it fits best, but then when they go for an alignment it needs a horrendous amount of shims, or doesnt have enough caster adjustment, or it ends up adjusted so much it cocks up the steering geometry and have bump steer issues

Its probably easier for cert to keep the spring and shock separate, have been asked by LVVTA for finite element analysis on a hub to see if its strong enough to have the spring on the shock mount on a car with IRS before And you would likely have to strengthen the shock tower

I'm surprised the threshold didn't include some sort of limit on lifts in the last update, or specify that replacement shocks should be the same length as oem this wouldn't need a cert according to the threshold if it just had the springs and shocks fitted, and it had a page of stuff wrong with it

Fuck cars I'm going to start a more lucrative career in wind chimes

I wonder if you did that and put some diesel in the shock and sealed up the shock valving , and do a jump Would you get a really good rebound?

Sorry I dont have a lot to do with repair cert guys so dont know anyone down that way, probably best to ask your panelbeater if he has one he recommends

Nice! Is that that Cadbury purply blue colour?

If it was me, if it hasn't had other repairs that would need repair cert, and it hasn't got a whole bunch of fresh underseal and paint etc I'd just send it through compliance and see what they say A letter from the panelbeater wouldn't achieve anything, if anything you could pay a repair certifier to write you up something saying it doesnt require it

From memory the later discs are bigger diameter, the caliper is the same, just has a different bracket

You probably wont notice any difference. I dont think exhaust shop benders go to 3'' usually so that might be why they dont want to do it? Would have to buy bends and cut it up/weld together for 3"

Because I'm a wanker, i made some other exhaust options, a mufflerless tail pipe that bolts on in place of the muffler, and a turn down that can bolt on to the 3 flanged sections, so behind the diff, in front of it, or at the front pipe, so I can have varying levels of loud Exhaust is ready for paint now. I'll probably get the front pipes HPC coated again

Is it having rust repairs done at the panel shop?

My van has fly by wire throttle/ efi/ the butterfly thing controlled by the ecu When I blocked the egr it idled funny, I removed the throttle plate from the shaft and left everything else connected, no engine check light and it runs and idles fine

Good work! That's a short list. Front pads are usually the key thing to get right , if it has vented discs, get a really good quality pad and it should be fine. You can try the brake test yourself with a stopwatch, if it can do 5 stops from 100 to 0 under 4.4 sec each time, in a total of 3 minutes max, it should pass

Correct. If it's on the plate then it's already covered and doesn't need to be certed again. As long as it's safe, ie it doesnt have nails welded to it facing the drivers face

I dont see a problem with doing that if it's only offset by 11mm, just make it neat and tidy

Do you mean having an electric cut out to dump the exhaust before the mufflers, but then having it capped so the electric cut out cant be used? That would be one of those situations where it doesnt say you cant do it in the rules, but I wouldn't cert it because it is obvious the cap would be left off so the electric cut out could be used A bit like people who have externally venting wastegates who put a cap over the outlet so it's not venting at all any more