cletus

Mine looks a bit different I think I wired it so the engine runs by itself and the switch earths out the coil, lights etc run off the key

Cant help you because I too am retarded But there was a trap with my one which I'm not sure yours has, the ignition switch has 2 positions , start and run... start has a rpm limit so it cant get away on you Took me a while to figure why it would idle but not rev

Yes definitely get that sorted. Contact your certifier and he should be able to get you a new one

Have you considered milling your own wood for use building things? Would be pretty cool to be able to make something from wood you cut down from your own land

^all those contribute to fade problems- weight makes it worse, more power makes it worse cause it can get up to speed quicker so less recovery time between stops, and bigger wheels because of the leverage as you mention, and bigger wheels are usually heavier, especially on 4wds

In my experience once they have been welded, they often crack again at the same place or at the edge of the weld I had 3x 19"rims welded by a wheel repair specialist, they were all fucked again within a year. That was on cheap wheels on a car that did a lot of km though so yours might last better

Can get a safari to pass the 5 stop test, usual easy combo is the 2 pot later caliper, slotted discs, and some really good pads. Pads is where most people run into trouble, they go into repco or supercheap and ask for the best pad, which usually equals the most expensive they have in stock at the time, which might still be junk . some wilwood/other fancy name brand brake kits come with rubbish pads to keep the cost down, fail a brake test and the guy with the 250k hot rod says "what are you on about m8 it's a wilwood kit it should be fine "

NEIN

I did a bit of research on that type of battery, they dont vent under normal circumstances but have a venting system for if they get over pressurised- like if they get overcharged. Checked with LVVTA and that means they have to be vented outside the car, either by a vent tube if the battery has the provision for it, or put inside a sealed box which vents outside the car. Protected against short circuits I've always interpreted as having the positive terminal covered so a stray wheel brace in the boot or similar cant short the 2 terminals, and the cable routed away from sharp edges etc

Cant see why not if the hinge and catch mounts are strong enough, and the window is the right kind of glass , ie has a safety mark

A long as you used high tensile welding gas that will be fine

Hello Richard, There isn't a bolt size spec for attaching a battery for cert, it is pretty standard practice to attach a normal lead acid battery with 2 'j' bolts so if you do it to motorsport specs you will be fine You could do it either way that you have described if I was making something myself I'd probably use 4x 6mm bolts to attach the frame to the floor then bolt the battery to the frame Words from the rules-

Previously certed items only need a quick once over to make sure they are ok, but generally are covered by the original cert. So in your case, a certifier would check things affected by the swap, like the gearbox mounting, driveshaft, brake pedal etc, but wouldn't have to cert the engine mounts or do the emissions side of the paperwork as that is covered by the original cert, but would have a quick look at the mounts to make sure they were not held together with chewing gum, tek screws or cable ties

Try Iain at autolign in mt Wellington

Bicknell autosport engineering in east tamaki, they do some pretty interesting stuff. I'm not actually sure if he did it or gets it done somewhere else, I just dropped off an old bit of fuel pipe I'd bent into the shape i needed

Do you mean changing the master cylinder size? Or just replacing a worn one for a new one? I think the intention is to prevent people swapping parts that there may be differences between manual and auto spec which might be a safety issue that doesnt get picked up by a wof inspection

The modification threshold got updated, new or different info is in yellow https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

Yes will need cert for 2 potential reasons, 1. Car needs to match what the cert plate says If it didn't have a cert already, 2. Threshold says it's ok to swap auto to manwell, if you use optional oe parts....the kicker is if you change to a manual brake pedal or modify the oe pedal, that needs cert

Archers springs in takanini for leaf spring upgrades

I'll probably get it as close as I can myself then dyno to finish it properly Finding someone who wants to do it or knows how might be a bit of a challenge but that's later on clints problem

One side done, got some 25x4 tube bent, 3mm plates on the chassis rail and glued in

You could do something like this, the main thing is you are trying to get it close enough rather than maximum precision. Another way is you could roughly figure it out if you can see where the pivot points of the upper and lower ball joints are. The thing you are trying to avoid is welding it in with, for example, 3 degrees of negative caster , when it should be aligned at 3degrees positive...which would mean you would need 6 degrees of correction to get it right= problems I mentioned earlier

Just a tip before you weld on the brackets for that front end- make sure the caster is in the ballpark of where it needs to be. A lot of people get caught out by welding the beam in flat, or where it fits best, but then when they go for an alignment it needs a horrendous amount of shims, or doesnt have enough caster adjustment, or it ends up adjusted so much it cocks up the steering geometry and have bump steer issues

Its probably easier for cert to keep the spring and shock separate, have been asked by LVVTA for finite element analysis on a hub to see if its strong enough to have the spring on the shock mount on a car with IRS before And you would likely have to strengthen the shock tower

I'm surprised the threshold didn't include some sort of limit on lifts in the last update, or specify that replacement shocks should be the same length as oem this wouldn't need a cert according to the threshold if it just had the springs and shocks fitted, and it had a page of stuff wrong with it