cletus

Bunnings bumpstops. 40 dia at the bottom, 30 tall rubber. 8mm stud I've used them on a few different things now, they are reasonably soft so they work quite progressively And they are $13 each so pretty cheap

Green car is out for a while to get certed so I thought I'd make the most of having some room in the garage, and do a bit of maintenance on this thing so it can get a wof New tyres, a quick polish of tridens and bolt those back on, adjust the brakes, grease balljoints etc, and a couple of little fixes I wanted to raise it a little bit as the roads are so chooched and there are speed bumps growing everywhere so I changed to a 205-70-14 on the front and a 215-70-14 on the back. They are pretty balloon spec, that plus a turn and a half on the torsion bars, plus a pair of more progressive shaped bump stops, it drives much differently now, it's quite a lot more comfortable. I ordered a windscreen rubber and filler strip a few weeks back and surprise @Valiant hemi performance didn't actually have the parts in stock so it's on back order

Congrats! Good work, nice to see it legal and on the road

What a lovely looking motorcycle. Those tyres should make it a lot more fun on the road

I enjoy a well detailed undercarriage, it looks great.

You are right though. Lifted 4wds suffer from this when the arms get on crazy angles, same theory, they end up driving a bit like a backwards skateboard haha I think that's why there's a few videos around of lifted safaris and patrols lifting the left front tyre off the ground . It's not the unbridled horsepower of a TD42 doing that, it's body roll and shit geometry. it's good to think like that as you can consider the effects of doing things instead of just doing the things and wondering why you ended up in a ditch

Whether the reverse arch vs spring shackle thing actually makes a difference to how a vehicle handles, I don't really know , usually something with a big reverse arch drives like shit for other reasons haha

There isn't a spec for how much arc a leaf spring has to have, it would be up to the certifier to assess it. I have certed a few that have been flat or slightly the wrong way. An old bloke who was clever with suspension once told me his theory that a reverse arch spring is not ideal because the spring and shackle start trying to do opposite things- ie a normal arch spring gets longer which pushes the shackle away and up A reverse arch spring gets shorter so pulls the shackle towards the spring and the shackle is then straightening up Some points = getting leafs reset, technically, requires certification. A complete aftermarket new leaf pack would not necessarily need cert. However its one of those things where if it wasn't too extreme you would likely get away with it Another thing that can help is getting the spring guy to reverse the spring eyes which keeps the leaf pack flatter while lowering the car As well as the bumpstops, check the pinion snubber clearance, there's usually less clearance there than the bump stops

One is vacuum and the other is ported vacuum I believe It's in the 'has vacuum all the time' hole

I don't have a super clear pic but you can see the hoses on the side of the carb here

Yeah it had a 6.5 in it , I put a 3.5 in yesterday and it does seem to be better The carb has had a few mods for blow thru, the pv chamber has been boost referenced. It was done by a guy in Australia a while back who specialized in blow thru carbs. At the time I just bolted it on but this time I've been trying to figure out why he did what he did, and how it works there's an external vac line from the throttle plate with a check valve , to a t piece. The t piece goes to the pv chamber Off the other part of the t piece is a small tap with a small hole, and a tiny one. This goes to the hat on top of the carb I *think* it works like this Idle, low load cruise, the vac is enough to keep the pv shut even though there's a 'leak' through the little tap As it starts to make boost the positive pressure overcomes any vacuum (this is where it gets funky as there can be a vacuum under the carb but pressure above it. This can mess with the pv because the fuel bowl gets pressure as that is vented to the hat which creates a pressure difference between the 2 sides of the pv Getting the balance of various vacuum and boost leaks to go in the right places at the right times seems to be the key I know efi would be better and more efficient but I'm a derp and like the simplicity

Ready for cert . Did a bit more fiddling around with tuning , removed bowl vent extensions again and swapped to a 3.5 power valve Getting the PV to open at the right point is a knife edge balance of too lean backfires and black smoke chooch

Yeah that drive shaft is terrible It shouldn't have that extra piece welded in , also there's some weirdness on the front yoke, some of it looks like it's been ground off? There's not much material around the bearing cup Russell @ driveshaft specialists in east tamaki is a good guy for sorting out issues with driveshafts

Yeah that would be fine.

Cool, I like notchback mustangs The front wheels look like cragar copies (speedy californian) can't see the rear ones Easy way to tell is cragars have an alloy center with bits of steel cast into them that weld to the rim Speedy wheels are all steel and are a different shape , are a bit flatter

Don't forget, oldschooldotcodotenzed drag day is in December

Oil pickups are pretty cheap on rockauto,, last time I had the pants off my engine I fitted a new one on another occasion I unfolded the edge to remove the screen and clean out the pickup , then made a new mesh out of a kitchen siv and re folded the edge over

Yes, have a look at the fuel system chapter in the CCM, you can download it for free now Main thing is it has to be behind the front axle centerline if it's in the front of the car

I assume you have taken the center nut off and the puller is pulling the axle flange , and the middle part of the puller is pulling against the end of the axle shaft? Looks like it's on a very shallow taper so yeah I imagine that would be a prick to get off Lots of heat on the axle flange and the bit on the taper would be my suggestion

I think it would be less bad than this situation , that lvvta said was OK At least yours can be checked through the vent hole visually

Ha yep that's the one, grandad not uncle though I took this pic today to post in this thread

Nice work!

I read the threshold, and the way I read it, if a tip tray was bolted to all factory mounting points it wouldn't need cert. If you are re certing for your engine swap then it would be best if you can get it all covered at once Grey area. The mod itself as above would be below threshold , but, if it was converted to a tipper then it wouldn't match the cert, so you may have issues at wof time