cletus

nah not legal, cant have anything covering the headlights....

Who is it?

anyone know what its like over other old paint?- enamels, acrylic, problems with fry ups etc

if its a fuel pump weak/flow issue, it will accelerate normally for a bit then start cutting out, as it takes some time to drain the carb bowl

Anyone used this stuff? was talking to an old bloke that swears by it, reckons its waterproof and doesnt even need a topcoat, can spray on bare steel. Also, whats a miracle product i can spray on the inside of a rusty panel that i cant get into to clean up, that will stop rust and make my vehicle last forever? PA10?

wheels are 14x6.5. dunno which ones ill use, got a set of standard non charger type ones as well. going to get some wided to heaps, ive got a set of eagers to go on it. engine will get a spraycan reco, its only a 273, but it runs well, its got a holley 2 barrel and my brothers got a set of headers laying around so thats what it shall recieve.

from wikipedia The standard version of the 265 produced 203 hp (151 kW) @ 4600 rpm and 262 lb·ft (355 N·m) of torque @ 2800 rpm. The top of the line performance engine in the E49 Chargers produced 302 hp (225 kW) @ 5600 rpm and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m) of torque @ 4400 rpm Bart, i guess the wof guy is correct if your mates engine is similar to E49 spec

this is pretty much it not sure how a wof guy especially at a testing station, where they dont drive the car, would accurately measure 20% with their arse dyno. i guess they could ask for a dyno sheet if there was any doubt the exception to this is turbo cars. any time a turbo is changed for a bigger one or an ecu is 'chipped' , external wastegate fitted, needs certing, regardless of percentage increase

if you are keen to get some in, i would fire this guy an email justin@lvvta.org.nz. and send him some pics. they look ok to me, the welding isnt in a high load area by the looks of it, its holding the spacer on and the taper for the ball joint in but theres not much load on it in that configuration. would also need a bump steer check which has to be done by a 1D certifier.

discussion thread - viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34448 Picked up a new project today VH valiant ute. 273 V8/auto, is pretty good for one of these rust wise, has had a few repairs which need finishing. plans= dont spend too much, going to give the panelwork some attention and squirt it a flat/satin colour, slam, wheels. the green VJ was included as parts its ROTTEN. has a few good bits on it though.

All bike stuff i refer to Alex Gee- 0272647282, he specialises in bike stuff. i can never find much info on bikes and dont really ever have to so havnt looked too hard

hole lee shit. you sir, are a keen man, best of luck. they are a tough looking car

thanks for posting that, ive been looking online for manufacturers that have a better range of fitment, without much luck

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ystems.pdf 2.3 (27) is the only part that deals with fitting abs, however it only mentions scratchbuilt vehicles. what sort of car are you doing this to? I would suggest getting in touch with Justin at lvvta tech@lvvta.org.nz i cant see why you couldnt do this, if done properly. it is possible to cert brake upgrades on a car factory equipped with abs. 12mm alloy should be fine, how much of a step will be machined into them for clearance?/is that what the grey lines are?

sounds ok , as long as the a arm mount is as strong or stronger than original

shit yes that is a well proportioned motorcycle, sir

what were the warnings the cop gave you? am quite liking sigma wagoons

looking good mate!

yes can cert different wheel sizes, need to do paperwork and brake tests for each set of wheels. never been asked to do it, would cost extra though.

... Do they really think these rules are going to stop the halfwits driving their pieces of shit round on cut bump stops. probably not. my personal opinion is some of these rules are an effort by LVVTA to keep a professional image in the eyes of the govt, as well as improving road safety. Remember the rumors a while ago about adjustable platforms being banned? the camber thing is a result of that. there was some drama about x amount of fatal accidents involving cars with adjustable platform suspension (most of which werent certified) and the AA/someone wanted them banned, that was brought up at a training session, and we were asked our opinion on them. the other "improvement" to the rules mentioned was a limit on spring rates for road use which will probably come later. thats actually how it alway has been, one of the first boxes on the suspension check sheet says something along the lines of 'no excessive wheel alignment angles'. problem with that is each certifier has a different idea on whats excessive. i used to work off the outside of the tread still touched the ground and it drove safe and didnt look stupid, then it was ok. the reasoning for the authority card deal is generally the cars are motorsport vehicles that have a legitimate reason to be a bit more extreme, and dont get driven by flatpeakers full of woodstocks at 3 in the morning. Not going to be an issue after cert, too hard to expect cops to know what the specs are or how to measure it. theres no mention of it on the plate either so theres nothing to stop someone cranking the camber back in afterwards. however in the event of an accident, LVVTA can pull out the file and show photos and a wheel alignment report to say it was fine and legal when it was certed- ASS COVERED, OWNERS FAULT.

As it stands at the moment- if thats the factory specs, then its no more than half a degree over that, regardless of height. that half a degree IS the allowance. i checked an mx5 last week at around that height you mentioned and it was a fair bit over, im not sure how its going to go cause the adjusters were maxed out. i can see some extra adjustment from slotted mounting holes may be a necessary option for some cars

yes if its already certed, and its all the same(not any lower etc) you dont need to worry about it.

you are correct sir. in theory that would be do- able however then you would lose any adjustability as far as getting the camber correct and most cars get a fair amount of caster increase from lowering the car anyway, usually more than the spec on the sheet. last thing we need is someone deciding that caster should be within half a degree of what the sheet says, that would royally fuck things up

2.43 is the bit that deals with blowers poking out bonnets http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ctions.pdf bear in mind that a lot of "legal" cars you see with blowers hanging out the bonnet, are not really legal.ive had a couple of arguements with people saying im a prick for not certing thier car when" xxx`s car has a cert and thier blower sticks out way more than mine" they may have a cert plate but what most guys do is take scoops/spacers/air filters off for cert then as soon as the plate goes on the tall stuff all gets put back on. So now when we do a cert on a car with anything hanging out the bonnet, the protrusion has to be measured at its highest point and that gets recorded on the cert plate.

yes- you were using the east tamaki asphalt dyno too? haha i bought my ignition and dizzy from C+M, Carl is a good bloke. ive done everything myself on this engine apart from machining work and getting the carb modified. more boost will happen- but probably have to do something with the driveline soon as i think its living on borrowed time as is, im surprised nothing has broken yet