cletus

4x M10 or 3/8. if you are bolting thru a panel steel floor then you will need big washers on the topside of the floor.

trd stuffs= would need cert even if fitted at the dealer. ive done heaps of estimas/boring cars with electric swing out seats, these are fitted by a toyota company (TECS) and are sold new from toyota dealers like that, but because they werent actually made by toyota they need certing. same with some nissans, those rb26 powered stageas, some pulsar 4x4s fitted with sr20s, all done by a company called Autech porsche rollcages= if you fitted a factory cage to one, it would need auth card. a new one factory optioned i believe would be ok without because its oe equipment. would have to find out to be 100% on that though.....

some extra strength would be a good idea. You need a motorsport authority card to run a full cage in a unibody road car. if it was me id decide what sort of motorsport you are going to do and get hold of the regs for that and build the cage to suit. TBH im not that clued up on cage specs, as far as a cert goes we are more concerned with the interior impact side of things rather than the cage construction, the authority card covers that. unfortunately rear passengers are a no go with a cage, ive looked into that for someone else who wanted to take kids for skids in a race car and it couldnt be done......

theres nothing saying you cant in the rule book. Not a good idea though, best to put it under the car at the back to keep away from heat etc

got some time to work on this masterpiece of commercial vehicles pulled front sheetmetal off, borrowed a waterblaster and cleaned 40 years of crap off the underside of it, and started patching some rust this bit was slightly rotten

is the navara chassis a short wheelbase?

Frost Green metallic- close to what you want? http://paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml

make a grille that comes off easy? " i always remove it when my lights are on, officer"

nah not legal, cant have anything covering the headlights....

Who is it?

anyone know what its like over other old paint?- enamels, acrylic, problems with fry ups etc

if its a fuel pump weak/flow issue, it will accelerate normally for a bit then start cutting out, as it takes some time to drain the carb bowl

Anyone used this stuff? was talking to an old bloke that swears by it, reckons its waterproof and doesnt even need a topcoat, can spray on bare steel. Also, whats a miracle product i can spray on the inside of a rusty panel that i cant get into to clean up, that will stop rust and make my vehicle last forever? PA10?

wheels are 14x6.5. dunno which ones ill use, got a set of standard non charger type ones as well. going to get some wided to heaps, ive got a set of eagers to go on it. engine will get a spraycan reco, its only a 273, but it runs well, its got a holley 2 barrel and my brothers got a set of headers laying around so thats what it shall recieve.

from wikipedia The standard version of the 265 produced 203 hp (151 kW) @ 4600 rpm and 262 lb·ft (355 N·m) of torque @ 2800 rpm. The top of the line performance engine in the E49 Chargers produced 302 hp (225 kW) @ 5600 rpm and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m) of torque @ 4400 rpm Bart, i guess the wof guy is correct if your mates engine is similar to E49 spec

this is pretty much it not sure how a wof guy especially at a testing station, where they dont drive the car, would accurately measure 20% with their arse dyno. i guess they could ask for a dyno sheet if there was any doubt the exception to this is turbo cars. any time a turbo is changed for a bigger one or an ecu is 'chipped' , external wastegate fitted, needs certing, regardless of percentage increase

if you are keen to get some in, i would fire this guy an email justin@lvvta.org.nz. and send him some pics. they look ok to me, the welding isnt in a high load area by the looks of it, its holding the spacer on and the taper for the ball joint in but theres not much load on it in that configuration. would also need a bump steer check which has to be done by a 1D certifier.

discussion thread - viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34448 Picked up a new project today VH valiant ute. 273 V8/auto, is pretty good for one of these rust wise, has had a few repairs which need finishing. plans= dont spend too much, going to give the panelwork some attention and squirt it a flat/satin colour, slam, wheels. the green VJ was included as parts its ROTTEN. has a few good bits on it though.

All bike stuff i refer to Alex Gee- 0272647282, he specialises in bike stuff. i can never find much info on bikes and dont really ever have to so havnt looked too hard

hole lee shit. you sir, are a keen man, best of luck. they are a tough looking car

thanks for posting that, ive been looking online for manufacturers that have a better range of fitment, without much luck

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ystems.pdf 2.3 (27) is the only part that deals with fitting abs, however it only mentions scratchbuilt vehicles. what sort of car are you doing this to? I would suggest getting in touch with Justin at lvvta tech@lvvta.org.nz i cant see why you couldnt do this, if done properly. it is possible to cert brake upgrades on a car factory equipped with abs. 12mm alloy should be fine, how much of a step will be machined into them for clearance?/is that what the grey lines are?

sounds ok , as long as the a arm mount is as strong or stronger than original

shit yes that is a well proportioned motorcycle, sir

what were the warnings the cop gave you? am quite liking sigma wagoons