cletus

not that im aware of, should always be certified though as its considered structural in a monocoque vehicle- in some nissans its common for the driver side pipe to go thru the inner guard right above the chassis rail flange and ive never had a problem with them going thru cert

you are most certainly able to do that, hobby car manual states any modifications to a production front suspension must be tig welded and crack tested. how much are you chopping out?

usually ok if its for a reason ie an intercooler pipe, if its not bigger than it needs to be, if it goes thru a part that doesnt contribute a lot of strength, (ie that part of the inner guard, theres often holes for washer bottles, factory ic pipes on nissans, etc) also it has to be done in a 'tradesmanlike manner', it amazes me how many of these i see that look like they were done with an angry dog or a hammer and chisel

if you do it properly, i cant see why it couldnt be certified- have seen racecars with lower arm mounts slotted, then a heavy washer welded to the x-member when alignment correct so it cant move

you could do something similar for an electronically controlled box as well, they just have solenoids to control fluid flow inside the box, so if you got tricky you could design something that does the same thing electrically. they are actually a bit of a pain in the ass if its something you drive regularly. i certed a car a while ago that had a manual valvebody, the owner didnt know it had one. bigblock chev, low diff gears, histall converter, so a bit hard to tell i said" how do you drive it?" "i just put it in D" "watch this" "oh thats much better"

yep its called a manual valvebody, you can buy them for most of the popular old auto boxes

just read the whole thing, nice effort! looks sweet, especially considering what you started with. one thing to watch out for- the front guard bolts at the top of the front guard arch at that height- be a shame to damage your paint if the tyre catches it and yanks it out

all up to wof issuers discretion apart from bumpstops, if they are modified it needs a cert. however lots of cars still get wofs with mod b/stops because the wof issuer doesnt notice/care they have been modified. as far as travel goes i think the wording in the wof book is "must have adequate travel from unmodified bumpstops when laden"

Nice! What are those seats?

Looks good mate, pretty tuff looking with those wheels and flares! have seen a few cars Grant has done, he does a nice job.

hmm. shouldnt need a password its on www.lvvta.org.nz look for certification threshold schedule

are you talking about the kingsland branch by any chance?

not a cert item unless you have cut the guard out underneath. however a lot of cars should be certed because of the mods required to fill the guards out though- wheel spacers, wide wheels etc here is a list of stuff that doesnt need cert http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplement ... eshold.pdf

# make sure the accelerator pump squirter is squirting fuel as soon as the throttle moves. # idle mixture screw adjustment too lean?, i usually start with 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in. # too much static timing? #leads on right/ firing order correct/ leads in good order, not crossfiring # i had a similar problem with a engine i had , had a 650dp on it, the air cleaner lid was too close to the choke horn, had a stumble on a full throttle stab, didnt do it with the air cleaner lid off.

wunderbar van Allan, es ist cool

haha yeah hopefully. checked the block and head casting numbers, couldnt find any info with the block numbers but it is a `67 block, the head casting numbers say they are `68-`72 318 heads, no adjustable rockers. when i was looking for a manifold, there was a factory early 273 4 barrel manifold on the tard,i did some research and the early 273 engine had heads specific to that engine with manifold bolts/threads on a different angle to all the other LA engines.

got an edelbrock performer dual plane. might keep my eyes peeled for a vac sec carb as well- since its not a powerhouse i would like to get reasonable economy out of it

sweet. some of these are 4 wheel drive arent they? Whats the electric head rest for?

more progress, engine out of rusty one, and sold, gearbox out, engine out of good one for a tidy up. have got some headers, 4 barrel manifold, spare 600 holley off my other car, and have got some shiny bits on the way to tart it up, and some paint. also some good scores, the diff in the green one turned out to be a 3.23 lsd, and the trans in the good one is a 727.

if there is an unused factory anchorage, that can be used without a cert. you may find some older imports that have been here a long time have anchorages fitted and no cert- there was a time when this was allowed

This. For a short period of time, these were the local gangs car of choice (after HQ's, and before XF coons) and there were no less than two, rocking deep dish tridents. LOOKED FUCKING TUFFFFFFFFF anyone else remember this? im sure the bad guys drove a jag/there was a jag in there somewhere also, just going to leave this here.....

yep as KK said, has to be done. can be quite tricky as well in that era of sporty coupe cars as in some of them,there isnt anywhere easy to put the belt anchorage, because of the big rear windows.

to be 100% legal, yes it would have to be on the plate.

stainless is different sounding, is a bit 'tinny'

you wont have to get zero bumpsteer, it wil just have to be an 'acceptable' amount. LVVTA has not set what is an acceptable amount yet so i guess its mostly up to the certifier. you may already know, you will need a 1D category certifier for this, the ones I can think of are Mark Stokes, who I work for, hes quite busy at the moment and going away next month Neil Fraser Lance Walsh, although im not sure if hes still doing it at the moment