cletus

a 2 piece shaft has a higher rpm limit- something to consider if running an engine capable of high revs like a rotary, or a lower diff ratio and a gearbox with a lot of overdrive also sometimes the shape of the floor dictates whether you need a 2 piece shaft- eg a commodore- designed to have a single piece shaft- with a single piece shaft will have rubbing issues on the floor

legacy wagon? you can get them pretty low, tyre rub in the front will probably be your limiting factor, drive shafts rub chassis rail as well when really low i think, rear bumpstops will need a haircut as well to have any travel. i dont think they suffer from heaps of camber either, max you can go is half a degree over oe max spec.

awesome. burt munroe spec DIY

Yes change of fuel type is allowed, no problem.

there is a tube size chart for suspension components in the hobby car manual, depends on vehicle weight/type

yeah i started it and it went, "gsr galant vespas poo techniques homemade fireworks, telephones"

mark still does them if its a hot rod or something like that, its the bagged owt rydz beemaz mercz are the ones that cause shit rolling on bumpstops, 24-7 driving slammed as or on silly angles, generally "look at me i gots switchez" types

ring your local certifier, they can organise a replacement one.

noel or neal in hamilton neil fraser or lance walsh in auckland. mark stokes ( i work for mark) also wont usually do bags nowadays due to the drama that goes with them

also, do you have pic of the diff you have to put in? as Pete said, my diff is still a BW, its a 4 spider lsd ex a commodore, with 25 spline axles and side gears etc. normal VL had the BW diff,with 25 spline axles, would be strong enough for your application with a lsd in it i think, you can buy a lot of stuff for VL diffs,(VL turbos had 28 spline axles and 4 spider lsd) if for some reason you want to drive like a goose

looked at a vl with a three oh ate the other day, had twin pipes, muffs hang down low, was very close to the fuel tank on the drivers side, and it sounded like poo

only time it needs repair cert is when rego is dead or when a damaged vehicle is first registered in the country

this might be helpful http://www.aussiev8.com.au/driveline-suspension/33590-diff-information-thread-basics-salisbury-borgwarner-bw78-ford-9-a.html

yeah as long as the handling doesnt get all funky, you can delete that item

usually any rust repairs need a repair cert, and the vin guys are pretty good at spotting repairs. Its a gamble, if you fix and paint it and it needs a repair cert you may have to strip it back again for the repair certifier to sign it off, had this happen to a customer with a nicely painted HQ ute, needed to be stripped back checked and repainted again, cost the guy a LOT to get it back how it was to start with

retail prices= basic cert, adjustable susp, wheels, minor mods $480 wheel adaptors add $20 bolt in engine swap $560 eng swap with custom mounts $580-$600 exhaust cert $250 recheck fees $40-up none of these are set in stone-sometimes its cheaper if the owner is helpful, is a GC, car is a minter etc and its more expensive if the opposite applies, if it takes ages to get the inspection done, stuff like that also all certifiers set their own pricing and it can vary from area to area

thoughts? well, I always wonder why the larger diameter darker colour nose hairs just pull right out with a minimum amount of pain, while the tiny little white ones hurt like they are attached to the bottom of my brain stem when i pull those out. oh, you meant about fiat brake caliper brackets, didnt you. they look fine if they are made of steel and they are not welded together

you paint good for someone who makes novelty fridge magnets. Nice Job

they look like they would come loose a lot- a bolt to pivot on at the engine mount and a bolt to pivot on where it attaches on to the crossmember

not really, should be fume proof, that bit by the spare wheel would need sealing up

mod LCA could be ok if its mild steel channel type arm,done well, TIG'd, crack tested. however, you would still have to comply with the camber rule of no more than 1/2 degree over oe spec unless its a motorsport vehicle with authority card. shortened knuckles will be a no go if they are cut and welded cast or forged.

ordinarily, doing that would be fine if done properly. only problem in your case, is the tank is inside the passenger compartment i believe? which is fine if it is factory, but as soon as you modify it, it has to comply with LVV rules- then you would have to seal the tank area off from the passenger compartment

exhaust glowing red is also a sign of retarded timing