cletus

as mentioned, you can have a hyd h/brake, can have inline in original brakes or run seperate calipers, but whatever you do must have an authority card, even with a seperate caliper system.

yes that would be the way to do it drill holes one big enough just for the bolt, one big enough for the crush tube to slide in weld the tube to the rail around the big hole trim/grind flat, dont grind the weld off completely though.

Cant see why that couldnt work, may need to add a gusset to the side of that vertical bracket. Best to talk to the certifier you plan on using about exactly what he wants to see done. you will need a 1D category certifier for this mod

have you got a pic? i dont get what you mean.

they look sweet, i think they would look good with those whitewalls on.

diff out of other ute ready to go in, 3.23 lsd, cleaned up and painted, made some new brake pipes, brakes all like new- bonus. next will be lowering the rear, have got some new u-bolts, will make some 2'' blocks, utes have a diffrent rear spring set with more leaves so some will go into the bin for freeslam

yep its just pushlock, new hose but same sort as it was before, headers have got reasonable clearance.

i think the wording in the hobby car manual says they are not recommended unless its needed to get in and out the car, like if it has a cage.....usually i knock them back cause D1NZ wannabes put them in cefiros for no real reason, plus they are usually cheap china ones

engine is a runner again. shouted it a new carb as a double pumper would have been a bit over the top for this engine, now has 500cfm vac sec edelbrock, hoping it will be fairly economical. also have rebuilt front suspension, i pulled it apart to replace one bent arm, and found as per every other valiant ive owned, everything was knackered.

yep shaft is the same

did you figure out why it overheated? i thought vws were pretty much impossible to cook unless the fan stops working or the shrouds arent fitted properly

nein. would need cert.

check when you put the front ones on that they dont rub the tie rod ends, from memory they are pretty close and if the wheels have been wided inwards, you may have issues. should look sweet though! looks tidy.

some of the worst welding on cars ive ever seen was done by 'ticketed welders' zapping 6mm plate steel together all day is a bit different to 0.8mm toyota firewalls

aftermarket tie rod ends- if they are stock replacements, no, if they change the geometry at all- bumpsteer check with cert. main reason for knocking back rose/heim joints would be cheap nasty ones, brass lined, or ones that taper down thinner than the threaded part where they are pressed together, a lot of cheap china arms use crap joints which last about 7 minutes before developing play. also some arms are a design cockup, eg they bind or hit on the body worse than the original ones do, or load a heim joint incorrectly, stuff like that.

kevlar or teflon is fine.

can be sorted if there is some proof that the engine was never a 4 cyl. lvvta could tell you who certed it if you give them the cert plate number, you cant order a replacement plate direct from them it has to be thru a certifier.

no qualifications needed, you may need to show your certifier you can weld though. youd be fine

its not as common as it used to be, a proper dropped axle isnt as expensive these days. i doubt many people would do a full fendered car (40-on) with a dropped stock axle that isnt a ford, most end up with some sort of independent front end

asked about this today, there are a couple of nzhra approved engineers who can do it, and they are the only ones who can for cert purposes. Dave Mcdougall is the one i can remember. one issue is the type of axle it is, the only jigs available will be for early ford, not other types

should be do-able stolen from somewhere on the internet; When a vehicle’s details are recorded incorrectly on the Motor Vehicle Register (MVR), these can be corrected by sending an Application to Change Vehicle Details (form MR16, available at any Land Transport NZ agent) to Land Transport New Zealand. Most MR16 forms need to be sent with supporting documentation to prove that the information recorded on the MVR is incorrect i.e. if the vehicle model is recorded incorrectly we would require documents from the manufacturer to prove this before a change would be made. as far as the cert plate, i could get you another one made for a reasonable cost with the correct details

had a look thru your build thread, tidy car! looks good on those smaller wheels.

plates have become a lot more "descriptive" lately, depends on what the certifier put on the plate order form. it should really be on there, steering mods should definitely be on there, your diff had been moved foward as well hasnt it? and joker is right, center of hub- guard lip