cletus

im in auckland. pedal- regular small size manual pedal is fine re drilling axle and disc is fine as long as there is enough meat between the holes, ie you arent getting within 5ishmm of another hole

this. as long as the brake hose is secure, and cant rub on anything in its new position, then it will be fine no worries gents!

unfortunately, anything less than 50x5 wont be accepted by LVVTA.

Best idea here would be get your cert guy you want to use around to have a look at this. With this type of mods, different certifiers often have different ideas on what needs doing, i wouldnt want to say "do x" when your certifier might not be happy with it. those spacers are no good though

i cant remember off the top of my head whats near/mounted off it, if it is near a seat or seatbelt mount, it may have to stay, or be replaced by something that has similar strength or greater, and room for the driveshaft- or re fit a 2 piece shaft

if you go by the absolute letter of the law, any mods to suspension parts like that should be tig welded and crack tested. However, i have certed quite a few struts modified like that ie just a sleeve welded on to the original strut, and ive never had one knocked back by LVVTA. IMO the weld in that situation does not have a lot of load on it for the size of the weld, so its not super critical, as opposed to a strut welded at the base which has steering/braking forces and weight bearing on the welded join brake hoses sound fine, as long as they are proper brake hoses and have crimped ends holding the hoses on to the end fittings.

i tell people 7-10 working days usually. sometimes its faster than that, but dont like to say that, cause then it doesnt happen, and then im a prick......

bolt on strut brace doesnt need cert, a weld on one would. heres a list of stuff that can be done without cert. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

What sort of v8? should have same pcd/number of studs as the donor vehicle. as a rough rule of thumb. ie a rover v8 you could leave it 4 stud. big block chev would need more strength

if its not certed already, then get it included. the certifier isnt allowed to ignore things that are modified, plus its in your best interests to have everything covered. you will need a wheel alignment report if its lowered or the suspension has been modified- camber for cert = maximum factory setting PLUS half a degree

yep does need cert.

are you missing a 17mm socket? i found it.

from memory, it was the noise issue that caused the suggestion they would be banned turbo in my car makes heaps more noise with the bov not hooked up..........

there was talk of blow off valves being banned, but that got canned as far as i know

yep, is true. It has been a rule for years, however it has only become "known" about more recently. Happens now and then, i reckon what happens is wof dudes and/or police have a newsletter or a reminder or something that XYZ is illegal, and it becomes the new Big Deal. for a while it was noisy exhausts, lately its been external wastegates and wheel sizes that dont match cert plates

i didnt know such a thing existed. Any details of one?

as above.

if its a factory turbo engine, that has been modified with a bigger turbo etc, the 50% increase limit applies. I have a couple of times asked for a dyno sheet as proof that the car didnt make more than 50% more power than original when the owner didnt want to fit a loop. however this is only in the case of mild mods/smallish turbos etc. if its OBVIOUS that its going to make more/be easy to make more than the 50% then it will need a loop

technically, yes, because you cant bolt it in using factory parts. you may get away with it if you can make it look factory, the bellhousing is the only non factory bit you would have to use from memory

yarr. Because of the vast network of tunnels new zealand has, gps speedos are a no go. its a bummer, because getting a speedo working accurately can be one of the trickiest/more expensive parts of a conversion.

if it makes 50% or more power than the factory engine (either a modfied factory engine or a substitute one) if you have modified the driveshaft any time a turbo or supercharger is fitted then you will need to fit a loop/2 if it has a 2piece shaft these bullet point things make me look a lot smarter than i am

love it. awesome.

getting a move on to get this thing done for Nats. fixed horrible patches in bottom of b pillars, cleaned up and primed in door shuts, fixed dented tailight surround, tidied and primed lh side 1/4, fixed guard lip. whole thing less the roof and rh side rear 1/4 is in hi fill primer ready for a rub and squirt. just a bit of yuk stuff around the rear window to sort out, and clean up and paint the interior

have had same problem with my car, it gets worse if the fuel level is low, and im tootling around slowly, as the pump just hoons the fuel round and round. fill up with gas and give it berries and problem goes away as fuel gets colder

ok am going to get some 2k flat black instead of using the satin laquer stuff i have, its a bit glossy. who makes a flat black thats easy to use, with NO gloss. dont want to do a base/clear, bubblegewse mentioned Mipa? is good?