cletus

nice work!

It is still valid, if you have a 2 piece shaft then its usually no good because they are short sections, the loop needs to be at the front of the shaft. that 150mm measurement is only the MAX distance from the u-joint, you can go closer to it, that might make it easier?

can be done on a pre frontal impact compliant vehicle you cant make it weaker, or significantly stronger than it was originally cost wise, depends on what else is modified and who is certing it, there isnt a set price

if that replaces the rear shock ie the weight of the vehicle now goes thru the shock mount- might be possible with strengthening, i havnt seen it done on your sort of car only lighter stuff like starlets, corollas etc. IMO from what i can see in the pic they look like a bit of a cockup anyway, that spring would coil bind at that adjustment height, looks like lowering the spring platform would result in it being uncaptive so you would need keeper springs, cant see any bumpstops unless they are up in the mount tube thing but then they wouldnt be doing anything. i dont rate bilsteins much either, i have found a few issues with them

just the usual 'fit for purpose' deal, and have to have a bumpsteer check for certification, as far as i know you shouldnt have any issues if they are for your 64 theres some around that are welded together which are a hassle to get legal but these are for early 50s fords i believe

Talk to the certifier you plan on using, but last time i certed a 64 i didnt get them to fit a second loop, because of the design of the chassis making it pointless/very difficult to fit

the way the rules are worded, any mods to original front suspension arms need to be tig'd and crack tested.

depends on the quality of it, at that price i would question how good they are, welding looks pretty poos. cheap arms usually have super shitty joints which flog out quickly

angles should cancel each other out for no vibration, if your rear susp arm bushes are a bit squishy pointing the nose of the diff down a little bit can help, as it comes right under acceleration

I cant think of a reason why you couldnt do this legally, if you are using a fuel that is legal for road use. As long as the extra fuel system meets the requirements of a normal fuel system. Nitrous can be certed for use in a road vehicle, although i think the intent is for competition vehicles to be able to have all the nitrous gubbins fitted rather than for actually using it on the road. same with line-locks, they can be certed as well. i guess anyone using full jandal runs the risk of being done for "excessive display of acceleration" or whatever that stupid rule is called cars with LPG have to have a yearly inspection (alternative fuel certificate) and a 10 yearly tank test, this wouldnt apply to an extra fuel system if it was just regular fuel.

nothing specific, just make sure its secure and wont fall off with vibration etc

yep.

40mm is in the hobby car manual as a minimum amount of bump travel, if you had a similar amount of droop travel it would be fine

also, when there isnt a spec for something, it doesnt mean its possible to use an old coathanger or a hot glue gun to attach an engine/whatever, there is a requirement that everything has to be done to a tradesmanlike standard and be fit for purpose.

as far as LVVTA rules go, it just has to be secured, doesnt have to be enclosed, and there isnt a spec for the tie bolts. as mentioned by yowzer and japawagons though, motorsport nz has different requirements, if you are going to do any competition events then probably best to do it to those rules

yes can be done by a competent welder, doesnt need to be crack tested.

according to the lvvta sheet a 215/50/13 or 225/55/13 might be better off looking at falkens and seeing what their fitment range is like

there isnt a specific material requirement for engine mounts, depends on application and design

it was proposed that the cert plates/system was going to be changed to allow certs to be 'updated' cheaper. from memory it was canned due to being too complicated. as for your engine, depends on the vin guy, there are little differences but only would be noticed by someone who knows a bit about sb chebbys. i can id an early engine from what it looks like but still coudnt tell you the difference between a 265/283/327, even more difficult if its been modified

looks good hombre

would be a good idea to get yourself a copy of the hobby car manual, and get in touch with a 1D category certifier. you MIGHT be able to use the arms you have if you can prove the car was built before the current rules,( im not up with the play 100% with this stuff as i cant do scratchbuilt vehicles yet) http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/CertifierList-Website.pdf <list of certifiers

^ what he said

naturally, i approve of this wholeheartedly.

off to a mates workshop to paint. easier than trying to paint in a single garage. that trailer has hydraulics ese lays flat on the ground, it is quite awesome xa gt replica and done. its a bit rough up close but good enough for this guy