cletus

rego status? if its dereg you probably will need to get a repair cert done, if reg on hold its up to the wof inspector as to whether its good enough, wof man can ask for a report from a panelbeater if they have doubts about the repairs. repair does not have to be done by a panel shop welding the cruiser mounts on should be fine if done properly

when i started my apprenticeship, the mechanic had one that had a burnt valve and half the side was in primer, i can remember thinking " thats fucked for such an expensive late model car" at the time they were on yards for 12-14k looks tidy, rear spoiler appears to be pretty straight- i remember them getting wobbly looking fairly quickly

if you were butt welding a join/notch section, yes it would need fish plates, but the traditional way of doing a step notch like that doesnt need them as it overlaps the rail and acts like a fish plate itself- usual way to do it is weld on the side plates, weld insides to rail as well, cap the top, cut out rail, cap the bottom. pic looks ok, one of the biggest cockups i see with that style of notch is making it too big "cause i might bag it on 24'' rims one day", bumpstop needs to limit travel before anything else hits like diff head, driveshaft, or shocks bottoming out etc

does not have to be a ticketed welder, different certifiers will have differing opinions on doing a notch the right way so best to chat to the cert man you plan on using. are you just doing a small 'c'notch in the rail?

yep 2'' blocks fine without a cert, 2-3'' needs cert and must have additional support. usually too much hassle to do that sucessfully, easier to get springs reset.

probably something broke/fell off inside the box and got jammed between the crownwheel and housing- then escaped? have had that happen before, doing skids on mates farm, broke diff, changed it when half cut later that evening in the dark, some of the broken diff parts had poked holes in the diff housing which i didnt notice till the next day

ive got a supercheap tape measure you can borrow should be right

exhaust wont be listed on the cert plate, unless theres a structural mod to fit it. probably wont have been certed for the exhaust, as lance doesnt like doing it, he gets me to do a few of his noise test ones, plus you would have been charged more for it ($200-$250)

this. single leaf doesnt have enough strength to locate diff proper like no reason why you couldnt do it if you convert to a link style rear suspension however

which part of the rule says that?

heres how it works in real life, and the rule is intended like this= you fit a bigger version of the same engine, it needs cert you modify your original engine to make over 20% more power than stock, it needs cert you modify your original engine ie bore it out and it makes less than 20% more power, doesnt need cert you fit a smaller engine of the same type, doesnt need cert

Clint Field likes this. that converter looks like a work of art. what are your plans for the diff?

yea if you could do it without welding then i see no reason why you couldnt do it.

have to be captive at the certed height. if you want to lower it to the 5% tolerance you would have to make sure they are still captive.

are those coins in that last one? hah

wont need crack testing, i have certed a couple of bmws with similar sort of mods to get rear camber ok for cert. as long as the welding is good then you shouldnt have any trouble

if you cant find the locknut, a sharp cold chisel on the outer part and big hammer should get it off

yes, if you want to be 100% sure it will pass, tig it. most struts done this way have the join under the threaded sleeve so the sleeve adds strength to the join

yea. sunroof 12 slots and eagers 265 hemi jacked up in the back with the diff painted red lake pipes kerb feelers mullet stubbies singlet proper old tin can of lion red jandals

heres the relevant bit on the lvvta website http://lvvta.org.nz/approvals.html#design

westy- you rang me a while back about the bmw with the front end changed around? if thats the case the design approval will be for non oe front end geometry- a front suspension with changed pickup points/geometry etc has to be approved by tac. so did you take it for a cert inspection and the certifier asked you to get design approval, or did the car pass and the certifier sent the paperwork through and it got picked up then?

this, needs authority card for plastic windows

if it was strong enough to not flex etc then i suppose it could be used. i would be careful though, there are a lot of bolt on things for various cars that claim to "make x better/improve traction/ reduce bumpsteer etc etc" that make things actually worse. to me that looks like it would make pinion angle change worse with suspension movement as the upper links are shorter than original. i dont know very much about mustang rear suspension tuning though, you have undoubtedly done more research on the subject than i ever want to haha

you would have to make something work, there must be some bit of structure for the hanger bearing to bolt to, maybe you could mount the loop off that? the loop does not have to be straight across