cletus

depends on inflation, the price of milk solids and the auckland housing market, but i would say by 2030 you will need to pay another $3590 for your cert. welding of arms ect? cant remember but it was probably when the hobby car manual was released about 2008?

todays dick was the guy who fitted belts in the back of a nissan, put doubler plates in, one of them not pulled up against the pillar, and 2 extra 7/16 holes in the pillar where he put the plates in the wrong place then had to move them, and then tried to hide them by glueing a plastic cap over the top of the extra holes. and thats a 'professional seatbelt installer'. that cost me 90 minutes in traffic to go there and find that out. and at the other end of the scale, first job of the day was a 56 chev, the guy did the belt anchorages himself in his garage at home- and did it perfectly, to the book, far better than any professional seatbelt installers ive dealt with

for a cert, yes, as long as nothing else fouls/rubs/binds where it shouldnt

we have tightened up a lot on making sure we get paid. not so much fixed price certs any more on anything more than a basic cert, we end up going backwards too much. anything like ^ old mates shitbox skyline with the 5 rechecks is now charged at $125 an hour. fuck it grinds my gears when dicks come out with the old "certifier eh, bloody licence to print money" bullshit. just like any job, theres more to it than people realise

book says 40mm travel as a rule of thumb, depends on the car and suspension etc. ie if its got soft springs and can carry a few people, may need more.

pretty much think that at least once a day about someone. i cant believe how useless a large portion of people who modify cars are. even simple shit like actually putting fuel in the tank is too much to ask i had one the other day. up to 5th recheck now, mostly for faults that were not fixed after id written them on the sheet, like fuel pissing out of a split hose... last one was just a road test steam comes out the dash, split heater core re booked for another day 6 weeks later cause busy rang and told him to meet out by the airport in an hour to do brake test< he said ok see you in an hour went there, waited, 1 hr 15 min passes rang to see where he was he couldnt get it started, was taking loom to bits to try to fix, hadnt even left yet, no phone call or text, so i drove from penrose to the airport for nothing. then had to make haste back to pakuranga to fit another job in just so the afternoon wasnt a complete write off then he texts 20 minutes later, wants to meet still, cant, at next job now wants to come after hours after ive finished the other job another 4 texts ''plz bro just want to finish'' etc etc hes going to get an unpleasant surprise on his next invoice if he wants to finish his cert

just cause a compliance guy asked for this, doesnt make it correct. i had one the other day wanting me to write a letter that the rear chassis rails being trimmed on a chev truck was all no worries, never mind about the fuel tank and seats out of something else, tube front arms or springs been attacked with a bluenosed hissing spanner

also its fairly common for the chrome on the shafts to wear off/get damaged and they 'stick'

urban myths/old wives tales etc. its not in the rules. they are so prevalent though, sometimes its easier to just put the exhaust out the back, rather than deal with all the wof inspectors or police who think they heard from their mates neighbors uncle who bought a dog from a retired guy who worked at a testing station in the 70s, that an exhaust must exit 12 inches past the last opening window

ive always read that as cant exit underneath the passenger compartment, ie if you looked from above the car and drew a line around the passenger compartment, it has to come out past that line.

driveshaft loop info sheet is still current. as well as plates on top of floor etc, the loop must have vibration proof fasteners ie nyloc nuts or spring washers as far as exhaust= rule here http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf 2.1(5) has the bit regarding where it can exit

so i couldnt fit a triple pass muff in, not enough room at the back and i CBF changing the middle muffler again, so i put a 2 1/2 coby type thing in the back which has a chamber in it, seems to work ok, not droney etc had to take a bit of timing out of it as it was having a rattle at light load with the vac advance hooked up. might reduce the amount of total advance as it seems to like 15deg initial timing (runs slightly nicer at idle) but it has over 40 all in got stuck on the motorway for 40 mins in the stinking hot, and the temp didnt go over 180 which was nice. with the other engine it got quite warm quickly. and put some speakers in the front, made new kick panels and carpeted them. uhnn tiss

ill have a look in my pile of valiant bits, i think i have some of those trim rings

LVVTA have said as a rough guide 10mm for a modern vehicle, 20mm for something old. dont ask me what the cutoff point is though,haha #ismycaroldschool

you could wind the spring adjuster down/whip the springs out to check yourself on your machine you could ask your certifier if he would accept that, but i doubt he would. i wouldnt, would be too easy to bullshit the outcome.

when i was a youngin i learned the hard way by pulling the engine out 3 times, that you can fit the 1300 sump by dinging it in the right places, but the knocking noise from the 1300 pickup hitting one of the conrods will make you think the sump is at fault, haha

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/news/Position_Statement_re_UDM_Skoda_Yeti_vehicles_2014_March.pdf http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/news/Position_Statement_re_UDM_Skoda_Vehicles_Returned_to_Road_COMB.pdf

auckland is a bit screwed at the moment as far as the cert situation goes, specially for 1D category stuff mark stokes got suspended for 6 months neil fraser has resigned i now have 1D category, but nowhere to do them yet- was going to set up an inspection premises at marks place (i work for mark) but due to him being suspended theres a bit of a $ shortage to set up a hoist etc. plus covering some of his work has screwed up my bookings till april lance walsh is super busy there is 2 new certifiers in auckland and they are interviewing for another one to replace Neil, but they can only do the easy ones for now. as for your bump steer test- you could check it yourself before paying to have it done. its a fairly basic check, all you have to do is measure the amount of toe change it has over its range of suspension travel. we can do it 2 ways- on a wheel alignment machine- we set it up- measure the toe at ride height, put the jacking beam under it, up 25 mm, check toe, up 50mm, check toe. then repeat the measurements with the suspension compressed 25 and 50mm, pulling it down with a big load binder. then you figure out how much the toe changed over the range of travel. the other way is with our bars which bolt to the front hubs- remove springs and do the same checks as on the whl align machine- ride height, up 25+50, down 25+50, etc with a jack under the crossmember and stands under the lower arms. you can do it yourself with a couple of sturdy lengths of steel (i have done it as a rough measurement on something a while ago, not for a cert, with 2 broomsticks g-clamped to the front discs) this is the official way http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2010_Bump-steer_Swing-check_Procedure.pdf

oh lovely, i like.

Have a talk to your local TSDA (vinz/vtnz/ compliance center etc, that can do re registrations)

the hooby car manwell says 3000sq minimum as an upper washer, but it doesnt specify whether that is for the both or one of the 2 bolts per side. ive always interpreted as that being the total area required per side, but- i tell people to use a 50x50 washer per bolt (because they are easy to get from bunnings etc) or make a 100x50 one (usually theres some leftovers from chopping up a universal loop) if the bolts are close together, because a lot of people are 'mechanically challenged' and if you get into explanations it just confuses them and they get it wrong. LVVTA are using the HCM a lot more now, which is a bit of a problem for people doing things to the standards you can get to on the internet, as a lot of information is no longer relevant or is incomplete

can you bolt the buckle to the original anchorage in the floor?

there isn't a spec for feets on seats _ would depend on how long it is and the design of it and how fat you are. but if its just a couple of _/ shaped things from the seat rail to the floor then probably 25x8mm flat bar or similar, smaller if you can gusset it, etc

^that. those plastic boxes are only designed to enclose the battery not strap it down. usually in an accident the ass of them just gets ripped out and the battery goes flying if its not bolted to the body

got a pic of what you want to do there?