cletus

flywheel off, rope round crank pulley, pull start, revlimit, file. no need to thank me

yoink! still unsure why it siezed, apparently it was a runner when it was parked but nobody can remember why it was parked. the oil was pretty thin when i drained it and there was lots of it, possibly the fuel pump was leaking fuel into the engine.

that sounds like a fine plan, minimum thread engagement is 1 1/2 times thread diameter. where did you find those?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2012_Custom_Suspension_Arm_Inspection_Approval.pdf those look like z car rear lower arms? pretty easy to get legal bushes would be ok as well

its not too hard to sort out, get hold of a MR16 form from testing station, fill it out, supply any evidence type information and go see your local TSDA (a VINZ or VTNZ or compliance center that can do re-reg etc not just a normal testing station) you will probably need to take the whole car there. its fairly common to get mistakes on older cars that had their details put in the computer and someone made a mistake.

The first V8 i built for myself when i was an apprentice, i torqued up the last one and it snapped off. now i always replace them for peace of mind

you could try toyota, maybe its the same bolt as some other toyota if its too old for them? http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/arp-203-6003/overview/make/toyota

yea thats the only guidelines we have so far. one day i will get around to checking how much bumpsteer a valiant has, i predict that will be terrible. some cars have a lot of toe change ie mustangs, but the worst of it doesnt really matter because it is when the suspension is near full droop ie when you are doing a jump. so be careful if doing jumps in a mustang

we had a cert training session a couple of weeks ago with a "dont do this, look what this silly certifier did" session with photos of a vehicle that was certed about 40mm off the ground

cant open the link. but you can only have a pair of extra lights http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof/general/lighting/front-and-rear-fog-lamps as for your shaker scoop, you can have a scoop attached to the engine. rules here- http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_External_Projections.pdf that would also apply to a light pod on the front of a car, no sharp edges etc....

tig is fine if you are good at it

that 'too wide' diff actually makes it look quite good

oh my. thats quite lovely

not sure why its siezed, was going to have a chat more about the history behind it when the guy has a bit more time, has been sitting since 1985 so might just be lack of use. ahh.....unfortunately the purchase of this used up all my spare $ so im probably going to have to give OSN 2014 a miss now...... i just knew id kick myself on a daily basis if i didnt buy it

went and retrieved it today, it will be in storage at my boss's place for a while. plan= pinch the stock carb/manifold/exhaust off the coupe and fit to the ute, sell ute. rebuild the 318 out of the coupe, fit carb/manifold/headers off ute to 318, put in my white VG. do panel, paint, half cage, tubs, etc and put turbo motor in coupe, do skids.

love this shape chev, good price for a 2 door one. front end appears to be HT with later discs (holdens got vented discs from hq-on) not 100% what the calipers are but they dont look like H series holden ones

So i managed to purchase this from a mate, he got it from an old lady who had it stored since 1985 in her garage. has a siezed 318, all original paint which has a lot of surface rust. plans at this point, pull the motor out of this, panel and paint, swap turbo 318 out of my sedan into it, rebuild the engine out of this and insert into more family friendly version of the white VG. the only rusty holey parts in this are the spare wheel hole (will make a new flat boot floor for a fuel cell) and near the rear inner guard ( mini tubs will fix that) will probably take a while but am excited to have a 2 door one of these discuss= //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41371-clintus-valiant-hardtop/?hl=cletus#entry1221535

FYI max for a bolt on spacer is 30mm, max you can offset a rim is 20% of its width if its rwd

had a google as i know fuck all about plastics, but these two bits made me think its probably not suitable 1.Under tensile load, UHMWPE will deform continually as long as the stress is present—an effect called creep. if it does the same thing under compressive loading, the thru bolt will come loose eventually. 2.Its melting point is around 130 to 136 °C (266 to 277 °F),[6] and, according to DSM, it is not advisable to use UHMWPE fibers at temperatures exceeding 80 to 100 °C (176 to 212 °F) for long periods of time. one standard tom? that sounds like my fastener tightening method of "torque to flatulence"

early fords used a mount with a thru-bolt, but is fully isolated. boss got me to use these in an engine conversion i did, they sucked, ended up replacing them with normal round rubber mounts

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mazda/engines/auction-664772460.htm

the only reason you could have for using a poly bush with a bolt thru it as a mount, is for the poly bush to reduce vibration. but the bolt transmits vibration anyway as the bolt and nut are both attached to the things that should be isolated unless you leave the bolt loose enough that it doesnt transmit vibration as much, in which case it isnt tight enough to hold an engine in. if you tighten the bolt properly then the poly bush gets squished out eventually. no problem with using a solid material like aluminium or steel though

odd hobby car manual says you can have solid mounts, it was changed a little while ago so you can have solid engine mounts and rubber gbox mount, before that they had to be all solid or all flexible

there isnt anything saying you cant have a mph speedo

are they proper solid mounts or are they nolathane with a bolt thru it?