kpr

Yup. and i take back all the horrible things i said about bigport head. Its almost making the same power as smallport head, when they both have a decent intake manifold setup.

As i suspected answer is: c) wont do shit green no bits in port. pink bits in port Run with my smallport 47mm itb setup

I could be wrong but thought they all come with G codes. nz assembled vehicles often come with nothing written on the plate under trans/axle, or some kinda gibberish. If you have the chassis code, plugging it into toyodiy or the likes may give you some more info

Yeah its pretty hard to find any clear results on the port filling thing. then there is pretty much anyone with "high power" / "atlantic" 4age's. that never show their dyno results. all the ones ive found are dead in midrange. I have played with the idea of straightening out the ports by cutting the port back and raising the roof up. but really cant go high/ deep enough into port, before breaking out into the valvetrain area. to get much advantage.

Redmist or something similar? had that offroad race buggy? I tried the same way back. but likely made an abortion of it. just made it go worse haha.

The early head. It's a better starting point to modify. I may try the other head when take this one off engine to modify it

2nd pic is a smallport flange in front of it. So im gonna try my smallport manifolds on it with just the flange to adapt them. then will weld those bits to the flange so it fills in the dead space and try again. will use said results to decided how im going to modify the ports

Place your bets.. will this: a) work b) not work c) wont do shit d) fall off and end up getting stuck in the valve

3 link just for packaging, I run a 3 link in the front of the hilux for that reason. unless im missing something it seems 3/4 link will do just the same. Its running a panhard with triangulation that will bind things up. parallel links will allow for a little side to side movement, so can deal with the panhard arc. in saying that if you alter the horizontal separation a little (wider or narrower at diff end) in the calc it effects the roll steer numbers. so worth having a play with that too

its the roll axis angle on that calculator. I cant remember what was an acceptable angle now. but can hit the bump and droop button and see how much it changes. you will get away with more since you wont be using a whole heap of travel. my hilux goes up/ down just over a degree for every inch of bump / droop. but has massive long arms setup for high travel also the 3 link version of that calculator probably better to use, as has panhard in it too.

^ This if you put the angles in like roman dave has, with the bottom arms going up to the chassis and the top arm flat. you will notice things in the calculator gets better. but isn't always possible in a low car. hence why a lot run flat lower and angled top. take note of the roll steer numbers also, because that is horrible if you get too much. if your on 100% antisquat the car should launch with zero movement in the rear end. less than 100% will start to squat. id aim for 100% with adjustment either way. if your running a panhard placement will affect roll center also. but again isnt end of the world as will likely run into packaging issues. decent amount of arm separation diff end is good also, less likely to break stuff. To me the "instant center" seems more like drag race lingo. i'd be more worried about things like roll steer and roll center and ms paint @Roman pictures unless after the perfect 60ft.

whats the name of the calculator are you using? I used one that runs in excel when done the hilux. was good. There will always be a bit of a compromise due to packaging and the likes. so don't get too worried if you cant get it bang on as to what the calculator spits out. if you look at some factory stuff a lot of it isn't textbook.

Stock MLS gaskets will be best option. Just need to make sure manifold is flat

You'll want the "off" slightly higher than the thermostat temperature.

I screwed up one of the pipe lengths. so after many alterations, I'm happy with the lengths and how they look. I think for initial setup i will make a pipe that tapers up slowly from the end of collector as it sits (in place of the ugly pipe tacked on the end) Probably wait till good engine is back in before playing with that section more.

Long time no update. Wanted to try some stuff with the extractors, decided would be better off to make another set that will bolt in same place rather than mod current ones. made these pipes which have a very small taper down so can run a stepped section. port too big to run straight pipe. made a collector. idea was to try cut down the big open space where the 4 pipes connect. this is about how they will go. awaiting the flange and will need a few tweaks here and there. but all pipes are within 10mm of each other as it sits. other than the work in progress number 4

Boring up date on this turd Got the shits with stock ecu being a turd, and installed a g4x atom. wired it in to stock loom leaving the stock plugs in place as well. so could plug stock ecu back in. went something like this: had it running with basic tune in a day. then a while to get the alpha n tune and cold start, a/c idle up's with the stock isc to work nice. tbh i got lazy and never finished it properly and only has a road tune on it that spend an hour or 2 on. still, drives way better than stock ecu an uses quite a bit less gas. somewhere along the line i got sick of my 6 year old nephew mocking me about the jacked rear ride height. turns out someone had put cobra springs in the rear for some reason which sat higher than stock. so threw in some rsr low springs, not superlows so can still rally spec it. drove it for some time and was bit smokey. which i assumed was the exhaust valve stem seals. because again was too lazy to do them. only did intake. made some tools to do it in place and yeh that didn't fix it. drove it for about 6000k's before getting over the smoke and using all the oil. come to the conclusion it was something to do with the rings or pistons. was super unkeen to pull the whole engine and box out again. so pulled the head and sump off, which actually wasn't that much fun either, but better than the whole engine out. looking at this pic reminds me that the stock radiator top tank was weeping. so put in a cheap replacement, which actually looks super legit for the price. anyway. pulled pistons out. everything looked fine there, they looked better than the other 2nd hand ones i brought just in case, with about 20mm of carbon on top of them for about 18:1 compression. rings.. not so much. when i did the rebuild toyota rings with 3 week wait, and the 2nd option was out of stock also. so brought some acl/hastings rings. which were the most expensive also ?! they were pretty questionable, the gaps in the rings went square. by the time made them square the ring gaps were a bit over spec. but went with it because needed to get it running not piston out of engine, just there so could get camera to focus. this 2nd ring has 6000k's on it. can see the shiny bit is the only part been touching the bore. some places hasn't really been touching at all. so yeh either bore really oval or rings suck. im going with latter. engine running bit rich to start with on stock ecu probably didn't help the cause. but would not use these rings again So gave the block a dingleberry hone and wacked some japanese npr rings in it, which look to be identical to the toyota rings. were also cheapest. they were all bang on out of the box ring gap wise. so didn't need to even gap them. done probably 1500k's on it so far and got the seal of approval from my friend rangi re smoke. Think its still using a little oil but what 20v doesnt.. since i have to pay for my own gas for the first time in forever. stock ecu was doing about 9.5?L per 100k. with link 8.0. with new rings seems to be 7.8 ish. probably do better if i actually finish the tune.

the bottom new one usually gets pressed onto a carrier. the top one looks more like a fwd style.

doubt there would be any measurable difference in power.

most will allow .05 either way. so .025 will still be well within spec. I could be completely wrong, but would assume at least part of the reason aftermarket cams call for bigger clearance. Is said engine with the cam swap is a whole lot more likely to be raped within an inch of its life than a stock engine. so bigger clearance to take up the thermal expansion.

Old China sensor not drawing too much current for it?

Pretty sure I said bigport 4age barrys not general barrys In other news the heads are still siting in the same place on my bench, because yuck

Lucky its not the 20v version, else you would still be in the driveway suffering for smoke inhalation

ae86 and ae82 have different part number head. but that could mean anything. So thats why redtop 4ages suck so much. they made the ports screwed up put smaller cams in and heaver rotating assembly could be worse, could be talking 20v's

ah yeh that makes more sense. I just looked up some part numbers and found 3 different numbers for bigport heads.