kpr

diff needed to be shortend 15mm each side. was going to biff some rn25 axles in and shorten case more. but couldnt find any at the time. so had a go at shortening some myself: ^ that shits hard, to hard to machine. so made this to get thru the case hardening

had to make a few changes to make the work's fit. changed back to 4x 114.3. as i had changed to 4x100 and fwd offset, because it was cheap way to do brake upgardes and make hilux diff fit at the time. front hubs swaped back to standard. new pug rotors and bracket made for caliper:

new rims! these pics dont do it justice: will update the other changes and post some better pics another day.

this is for tacho's that run from coil - cost about $2 to make add another input diode, if running wasted spark for for the 3rd coil if running 6 cylinder wasted spark of course.

stock tach run off coil negitive? single coil standard? you'l need a tacho interface to combine all the coil negatives together, on your wasted spark setup. to drive the tach

ah, by steering arm, i mean from the balljoint, to where the rack end pivots in the rack. dont think what i said above would work though. as probably can't rase the balljoint pivot point on lower arm. could probably lower the steering arm ball joint insted though. i need to have a better look at it.

so if i were to make a new lower arm. that follows the angle, and has the same lenght of the steering arm. would be the best option (along with rca's) to try eliminate bump steer? i take it, both the lower arm and steering arm, have to arc from the same point, when steering is straight ahead. looks to be fairly stright foward on a kp. just need to make the lower arm sit higher at the strut end. as the lower arm currently angles down more than the steering arm. they seem to arc roughly from the same point at the rack/ x member end.

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/ http://www.lvvta.org.nz/Engine&Drive-tr ... ions09.pdf page 14 or 15 i think it was cert guy lol'd at the bolts i used. couldnt be assed going to buy some. and had some massive ones laying around

needs to be within 150mm back from the universal. mine is lucky if it has 10mm clearance between driveshaft and loop. as theres not much movent at that point

mean if you want power like a switch. - crap everywhere but full throttle new links million times better

new shape corrollas, as someone else said, have them. wagons and hatchs etc,, plenty of them around. yeh 4x100 is gay, in process changing kp back to 4x114.3 after changing it to 4x100 becuse it was cheap/easy at time.

other way around bro. longer for low rpm. short for high rpm. probably make them a bit under 1m long if 6-1, for decent compromise. i'l try work some shit out for you

just measure with tape, if your real hardout, you could measure the volume of each runner by filling it with water. there was a pretty good site with a calculator, to tune them to certen rpm. gives tube size and and length etc., will try find it

make a mean collector/s like a showed you as well. not that hard to do once you know how. whole lot better than that off the shelf shit most places sell.

maybe keen, usually lazy cunt/car in bits/cant be assed driving to town tho(40mins from whangas). nobumps: seen you're ute parked down lower dent street quite a few times. looks choice

yeh supercharged is same deal as n/a. since you dont have backpresure of turbo.

turbo current engine? diesels are easy to turbo/tune. wack a turbo on it and play with injector pump, till it smokes a little under full load. heat is the only enemy.

i'd go for toyo t1r or goodyear f1. toyo's seem to be a bit better in the dry and f1's bit better in wet. pretty retarded saying f1's suck in the wet.

ahh yeh, thats what i had to do to mine after i cut the ends off. should fix it.

+1 probably too long and mashing the bearings when you do them up. chop 5mm off the end of each axle

same ^

yeh you'l get away without a welding ticket. long as your welds look good. i did all the welding on my cars and both went thru a cert no worries. the second car he didnt seem too worried at all, diff, turrets, engine mounts etc.. only thing he was worried about was drive shaft, witch has to be done by qualified shop as someone else said.

good point. seems i may have fucked up there. sounded good at the time though. im having trouble studing your picture right now,. maybe i'l have somthing worth saying tomorow though. loose track maybe not camber

lathe doesnt really need to fit the shock thru the hole. when i did mine i had them setup around the other way. clamp current thread in chuck. machine the shaft down to correct size. the cut thread, cut excess thread off last. hardest bit is cutting the thread if you havent done it before. need special thread cutting tip to do it as well.

heres the ones i made, outside bits where the bolts go thru, are soild machined down on lathe. bits between are bits of 2" pipe, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/ ... 011s-2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/ ... 020s-1.jpg best to get the angle down even if it is a pain in the ass. anything past flat will reduce camber as suspension compresses, so you'l be loosing camber when you need it most. wont have as much effect with stiff suspesion or running alot of camber to start with tho.